Flynt
Member
I've heard of using blue loc-tite between the receiver and the scope mount base (in addition to the screw threads). Do you guys think this is helpful? Advisable? Thanks.
Loc-tite between receiver & scope base?
- Thread starter Flynt
- Start date
- Status
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
That's the way I have always done it.
The Lock-Tight cures out, and in effect "glass-beds" the mount base to perfectly match the receiver contour.
I can't swear it really helps anything, but it sure as heck can't hurt.
rc
The Lock-Tight cures out, and in effect "glass-beds" the mount base to perfectly match the receiver contour.
I can't swear it really helps anything, but it sure as heck can't hurt.
rc
wally
Member
You probably want formula 620 "retaining compound" for this application it can fill gaps up to 0.015". Its designed to to help keep pulleys on shafts.
--wally.
--wally.
Flynt
Member
Thanks, guys.
I'm now got another issue, before I even got to the Loc-Tite stage. I was going to mount the base, rings and scope temporarily, without using Loc-Tite or really tightening the mounting screws, but I stripped a torx screw head. Must have been really weak steel (this was a no-name mount set.) I've had some success at removing stripped screws, and tried my extractor -- to no avail. I drilled into the head and the extractor just sheared the screw off even with the top of the receiver (a Marlin 336). It seems like I've got two options:
1. Drive 30 miles to a gunsmith and get him to extract the screw.
2. Just use 3 screws. The base is a one-piece mount, and the sheared off screw is next to the back screw.
What do you guys think? Thanks again.
I'm now got another issue, before I even got to the Loc-Tite stage. I was going to mount the base, rings and scope temporarily, without using Loc-Tite or really tightening the mounting screws, but I stripped a torx screw head. Must have been really weak steel (this was a no-name mount set.) I've had some success at removing stripped screws, and tried my extractor -- to no avail. I drilled into the head and the extractor just sheared the screw off even with the top of the receiver (a Marlin 336). It seems like I've got two options:
1. Drive 30 miles to a gunsmith and get him to extract the screw.
2. Just use 3 screws. The base is a one-piece mount, and the sheared off screw is next to the back screw.
What do you guys think? Thanks again.
Sam1911
Moderator Emeritus
I know what I'd be happy doing. Get your keys...
Seriously, if the screw you buggered up was that bad, how great are the other three?
To be honest, though, I'd probably drill the screw out myself. Or try to. And possibly screw up the threads, which would require drilling and tapping to the next size, which would require one odd-ball screw to mount any base at all, and there'd be clearance issues with the larger screw head. :banghead:
Uh...yeah, get your keys!
-Sam
Seriously, if the screw you buggered up was that bad, how great are the other three?
To be honest, though, I'd probably drill the screw out myself. Or try to. And possibly screw up the threads, which would require drilling and tapping to the next size, which would require one odd-ball screw to mount any base at all, and there'd be clearance issues with the larger screw head. :banghead:
Uh...yeah, get your keys!
-Sam
Flynt
Member
Sam, Actually, I've got 4 screws that I know are good quality...
the best way to get a those screws out, they probably already had lock tite on them... find the appropriate screw driver, and tap the end with a hammer as you turn it the correct way to remove it... righty tighty, lefty loosy... if you didnt know.. and I would just use the lock tite on the screws, it is a real &^%* to get off in the event you ever decide to remove it. lock tite on the screws is plenty to keep a the base from shifting..
Flynt
Member
Actually PT1911, I've got three screws out. The fourth is now sheared off even with the top of the receiver.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
If the screw you broke off didn't have Lock-Tight on it, try tapping it out with a sharp center-punch.
Ding a bur up next to the edge first, and then angle the punch in the proper direction to tap it out far enough to get hold of it and remove it.
It almost always works if the screw isn't bonded to the hole with LT or rust.
rc
Ding a bur up next to the edge first, and then angle the punch in the proper direction to tap it out far enough to get hold of it and remove it.
It almost always works if the screw isn't bonded to the hole with LT or rust.
rc
- Status
Similar threads
