I need a new step to my process...

I give a quick check on my RCBS Chargemaster with a 5.2 grain pellet. I don't recalibrate every time I fire it up like I used to. It's always spot on.

I also know what my Lee dispenser should be dropping on each press, so that would be a double check I guess.

Before I trusted the chargemaster, I would calibrate it with the 2 50g weights it came with, then check a dispensed charge against another digital scale I had which used 10g weights for calibration. I still calibrate the chargemaster every time I turn it on, after letting it sit for half an hour or so.

Don't mix up your weights.

Only own ONE keeps things simple. Two of anything get me into trouble fast. Last blunder is when I topped of my powder drop with W231 on top of IMR3031. Things go real exciting when I lite off a blended 5.56. Have replaced the bolt since and education is always expensive. Knew better than have more then one powder on the bench.

I trust my powder measure and my scale. If one doesn't agree with the other then something is going to get checked out.

I always calibrate my balance scale to zero (with empty powder pan) before I do anything else. It's not an extra step, it's just step #1. ymmv

^^^ Higgite +1

Plus I make sure any fans and Heat/AC is off during calibration and during any weighing.

GoNoles,

I also trust both my scale and powder measure. I mostly use the LNL AP powder measures, the RCBS Uniflow and the Lee "Perfect Powder Measure. For a scale I use the Dillon Determinator.
For my process, I always zero the scale when I start out, and sometimes during a long session. I run check weights through periodically, but not every time I use the scale.
My LNL and Uniflow will throw very consistently with most powders, except extruded stick rifle powders. On W231, WST and Promo they only vary by +-.1 grain, at most. I get about the same with the Lee when I use it. The Lee is very good with the stick powders that choke up the others.

At the start of a session I dial in the measure, throw 10 charges and weigh them together. I find that the average is spot on for what I'm throwing.

If I'm loading progressive, then I check each 40-50 rounds.

I think that your idea to zero the scale first, then add the appropriate check weights is sound. Maybe put up a visible note at the scale for the weight you are working on?

Eddy

I always calibrate my balance scale to zero (with empty powder pan) before I do anything else. It's not an extra step, it's just step #1.

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Yep. Where else would you start than from zero?

Seems like using check weights to set the scale vs just to check it was the issue.

Calibration is always step #1 when starting a new operation.

Turn all fans off and close all registers.

Keep anything that can produce a field, drills, and other electrical devices several feet from the scale.

Don't reload with distractions.

Always do a double confirmation of the data to be used.

And never, ever keep more than one powder on the bench during the operation, and that one should always be the one you are loading with.

Check all cases after charging with a bright light, and throw one or two back on the scale before seating bullets, as a confirmation.

And any other fail safe you can incorporate into your process is never a useless or unnecessary step.

GS

I zero my scale every time

It sits in the same spot so there really should be no reason for it to change. (A Dillion Eliminator) Same as the RCBS 505 (different color) made by Ohaus.

I rarely take out the check weights

Had a Lee scale years ago, I would suggest investing in another balance beam scale. The LEE is accurate but just to fussy to deal with. To me, a scale is the most important tool in reloading.

The scale is in the same position for every use, using a magic marker to outline where it sits. It should point at zero. Then i place a 158.7 gr bullet on the scale. Pointer should point at Zero when set for that weight.

higgite said:

I always calibrate my balance scale to zero (with empty powder pan) before I do anything else. It's not an extra step, it's just step #1. ymmv

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That's the ticket

I clean the pan out with a paper towel then zero the scale with it empty. Then I use the calibration weights to see if the scale is on the mark at the weights specified in the calibration kit. I DO NOT change the calibration once it is zeroed. I make allowances in the weight that is measured/used in relation to the nearest calibration weight(s) if necessary. If the scales weigh each calibration weight the same with a starting zero every session the weight you dial up/use will be repeatable from session to session and that is what you want as much as being in a safe level.