The RUGER OLD ARMY Club

Probably not a problem. Rugers QC during the Old Army run seems to have been quite good. ROAs are the only b.p. arms that can be dry fired from the factory that I know of. That takes fairly close tol. work.
Remies will beat the frame in at the top.
Open tops have to be very close in the barrel/cyl. clearance to be set up for dry fire.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
 
Not sure how to start new thread..... But want some advice!!! Is it ok to interchange cylinders on R O A revolvers as long as others are factory R O A cylinders?

Reason is to bench load , have several shots and clean one gun and 3 cylinders. Lot faster than cleaning 3 guns.

W F H
If they fit and rotate in time properly, why not? I have a second ROA cylinder that fits one out of three properly enough to fire.
 
Interchangeability

Quoting Patocazador:
"All of mine interchange with no problems plus a ClassicBallistx and Howell one.
__________________
Life's short, have some fun.

Bob"


Pato,

Thanks for chiming in.

CBX guarantees fit and function for our cylinders, but our experience is still that we can meet that only about 95% of the time right off the bat and only about 97% of the time given adjustments to the cylinder. Ruger's insistence that its cylinders be fitted was more an insurance liability question than one of function. If they fit and function, they interchange. They may fit differently, but just try measuring the variance precision cylinder-to-cylinder, bore-to-bore between fit of on your ROA and see what you get. Oh, and while you're at it, spring for an air gauge and and optical comparator, because until then, you're just guessing.

Ruger never answered us as to how their process worked, but we suspect that a number of their frames with anomaly dimensions went to their "custom" shop to have cylinders specially fitted to them and some of those were beyond the dimensional range of practical fitting modification of our cylinder. Those are likely the 3% that are our failures.

Yes, to all of you, Ruger's quality control for all its Blackhawk design revolvers, the ROA included, is excellent. The barrels are as good as you can buy.

We find Ruger's standard for timing precision a little wider than ours, but no more than a few minutes +/- of arc angle and unimportant unless you're shooting long range silhouette. Other factors play a much more important role. Most OEM's will fail perfect alignment as tested with a perfect bore diameter gauge. CBX's will, but usually by a lot less arc - it's just that every chamber in every one of CBX's cylinders will be in pretty much exactly the same orientation to barrel bore axis. There is no shot to shot deviation. Profiling the latch can correct this to a limited extent, but as it is very small and inaccessible the process is excruciating, time consuming, and expensive.

Ruger's election to cut latch slots chordally instead of radially is more tolerant of anomalies of cylinder/latch alignment than ours. That "tight" lockup folks seem to think so great about our cylinder is actually a "tightrope" we walk with every cylinder we make. And the anomalies of the latch itself and its frame cut are much more common than those of OEM frame dimension and axle alignment.

There's more to the story. Read some of it at classicballistx.com or in this thread. But, I'll bet you've got better things to do, too.

Cheers!

Wisent
Classicballistx

P.S. Prices just went up, but so did the discount we offer. Get in touch and buy yourself a cylinder - we'll make you a happier ROA shooter. Guaranteed!
 
Last edited:
Thanks for all the great info. friends. I think offthehook needs to share up dated pic...
Think sonny and Cher were in background.

WFH
 
Yep. Archives are a dangerous thing. As you know I posted photos when I recently acquired a second ROA and fitted them with 45 Colt cartridge conversions and Bell Mtn quick change kits.

I'm impatiently waiting for leather double rig from Whyte so I can shoot them at local SASS match

Recent photo at CT Valley Bushwackers Cowboy Action match, me on left, looking much the same as 1972 photo. As soon as I get some updated smoke photos I'll post.



68039f305fda00fad641ee9f361e8f60.jpg
 
"Recent photo at CT Valley Bushwackers Cowboy Action match, me on left, looking much the same as 1972 photo."

Yep, nothing's changed except the bell-bottoms. ;)
 
I have two ROAs, and a 357 bisley new model Blackhawk. Can I switch the Bisley grip frame, hammer etc over to one of the ROAs without much trouble? Anyone here who's done this have any advice?

Or, another option is buying grip frame, hammer, screws from Brownells or Midway. Any advice here?

edit: after reading old posts on this, looks like the hammers are different; won't work. I'll have to wait till David Clements does another run............
 
Last edited:
Hey all, just registered and just getting back into BP shooting and had a few questions. I have a bunch of Goex FFG which I plan to use with my 45/70 cartridge gun.

With my ROA's (I have a 7 1/2 and a 5") I was wondering what is the going thought on powder?

I see that Goex FFFg, Hogdon T-7 and Pyrodex seem to be the most easily available. Is there a prefered powder now?

What about caps?

I will read through the FAQ's, but figured you guys would be able to answer this readily enough.

Thanks
 
I like real black powder in a percussion revolver. I have shot Pyrodex in revolvers, but Pyrodex has a higher ignition temperature and frequently I get fraction of a second delay between the cap and boom...a "pop-bang". If I use real black powder, there is no perceptible delay, it's just "BANG". I prefer Schuetzen to Goex. I think it burns much cleaner.

I do like Pyrodex in cartridges. I think Pyrodex burns cleaner and produces less fouling than Goex. So I load my cartridges for cowboy action shooting with Pyrodex. You will hear that Pyrodex is much more corrosive than "real" black powder. Maybe so. I don't care. I clean my guns thoroughly and promptly after a match no matter which propellant I use and don't have a problem with rust in my guns. I don't have to spritz my rifle with Ballistol during a match nearly as often when I use Pyrodex cartridges as I do when I use Goex cartridges.

If you are only shooting the ROA, I would use the Goex.

YMMV.
 
So either the Schuetzen or Goex; You prefer the Schuetzen due to ease of cleaning but then recommend Goex. I assume due to the burn quality of the Goex?

I have a bunch of Goex FFG that I planned on using for 45/70 cartridge rounds. So it may be easier to stick with grabbing some Goex FFFG for the ROA's.

I am not worried about the cleaning either. I tend to use a bit of BoreButter over each load which makes cleaning a bit easier anyhow.
 
So either the Schuetzen or Goex; You prefer the Schuetzen due to ease of cleaning but then recommend Goex. I assume due to the burn quality of the Goex?

I have a bunch of Goex FFG that I planned on using for 45/70 cartridge rounds. So it may be easier to stick with grabbing some Goex FFFG for the ROA's.

I am not worried about the cleaning either. I tend to use a bit of BoreButter over each load which makes cleaning a bit easier anyhow.
Schuetzen is my preference over Goex. If you have Goex, use it up. I think it just produces a bit more fouling. Takes a few more patches when cleaning. Really not that big of a deal. Sorry if I caused confusion. I understood your post to say that Goex was the only real BP available to you. Perhaps I was the one who was confused.
 
Yea, no worries, just wanted to clarify. I need to see where I can get the Schuetzen that will let me avoid the almost $30 HasMat shipping fee.
 
If you can afford to stock up, you can get 5 lbs of Schuetzen shipped right to your door for $26.55 per pound including HazMat & shipping charges. That's $132.75 total from Powder, Inc in Clarksville, AR.

Not many stores carry Schuetzen. Most stores that have a Federal Explosives License to sell black powder will simply carry GOEX. GOEX is about a dollar per pound less, $25.50, in a minimum 5 lb case.

If you go to a 10lb case, the price per pound drops dramatically. GOEX @ $20.05/lb, and Scuetzen @ same price. Remember, the price per pound includes HazMat & shipping charges. if you can get one or two friends to go in on a 10 lb case. It will make the purchase per person easier.

I get about a half-dozen friends to split 25 lbs to last six months and the price is only about $ 16.00/lb including HazMat & shipping.

Go to: www.powderinc.com or call 877-833-1799 for Jerry or Naomi.

Not everyone has a F.E.L. to sell black powder, its a separate license from a F.F.L. and requires another invitation from the local ATF to inspect you.
 
Back
Top