10/22 build suggestions

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H264

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I'm making the receiver myself out of solid 4140 and havent decided what exactly I want to put on it, though the kid stuff looks good.

http://coolguyguns.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=21 two stage trigger
http://coolguyguns.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=9 bolt
http://coolguyguns.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=40 recoil spring
http://coolguyguns.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=11&products_id=3 pin kit for the receiver
was thinking about getting a hogue overmold stock
I already have a lilja dropin barrel on the way.
http://www.theopticzone.com/default.aspx?act=pro&opt=detail&id=2923 I have one of these on my savage .223, nice scope, was thinking about putting another on this build.
donno where I can get the barrel retainer +cap screws, though I havent really looked for them.

The receiver is about 1/3 done as it is. Before I go much further it would be good to have the other components to fit the receiver to. Oh, and I will be milling in a picatinny rail directly on the receiver; I should have enough material left over on the top to do that.
I could feasibly make the bolt myself too, but for $100, I dont think its worth it.

Anyway, I havent really been in the 10/22 market before, so I dont know of all the options. Any changes that should be made for that list? Did I miss anything? Suggestions please.
 
IMO, the Hogue stocks for the 10/22 leave something to be desired in accuracy. Lots of flex in the fore end. Super lightweight and easy to handle, but not the best choice for a bench model 10/22, which seems to be what you are after.

Shame to put all those other quality parts on a weak stock and have it rob you of accuracy.

Forgot to add, the Hogue stock is so light that the rifle can and will actually jump around on a bipod and constantly change POA...which can drive you absolutely NUTS!
 
Hogue 10/22 stocks bad? Doesn't match my experience.

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Details are in this old thread.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=131138
 
Not "bad", but you can do much better.

I built this one. It was accurate, but too light to be worthy of a bench rifle b/c it would jump around under .22lr recoil and the bipod would cause the fore end to flex...that's all I'm saying and sorry to disappoint.

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The fact remains that it was a better shooting rifle with a better/heavier stock. YMMV, I'm just trying to save the guy some money.
 
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For the utmost in accuracy, most shooters looking for the holy grail will not use a synthetic stock for the same reasons Winknplink has stated. I have not used nor do I own one so I do not have a dog in this hunt. However, I have read for months before I attacked my stock 10-22.
 
So the hogue stock is not one of the better options... what is a better option if I wanted to spend around $200 for a stock?

-edit-

For clarification, a bench gun is not really in mind, I just want quality stuff in my 10/22 receiver. I figure if I'm spending a bunch of time making a nice receiver might as well go all the way and use stuff to match the receiver with it.

TechBrute said:
It seems like you'd want an EFR scope, especially at that level of magnification.
What is an EFR scope?
 
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CraigC said:
What are you planning to do with the finished rifle?
I havent really decided yet... probably for practice, shooting ground squirrels, and showing off to people how awesome I can make things in the machine shop.
 
So the hogue stock is not one of the better options... what is a better option if I wanted to spend around $200 for a stock?

Options are virtually endless, but if you don't really know how you intend to use it, it's hard for us to point you in any direction.

If you plan to hunt with and carry this rifle, the Hogue might very well be your best decision. If you think it's gonna be more of backpacking rifle, I;d suggest the Choate folder and a standard barrel. If you want it to be accurate above and beyond most any other 10/22 you meet, I'd spend my money at Boyd's on a solid, heavy laminate stock. The Bell and Carlson is also good, but then the weight is very light. Not as light as the Hogue, but light. However, it is still a stronger stock than the Hogue in that the composite material on the B&C resists flex better.
 
but too light to be worthy of a bench rifle b/c it would jump around under .22lr recoil and the bipod would cause the fore end to flex...that's all I'm saying and sorry to disappoint.

I wouldn't expect the same accuracy from any weapon when using a bipod vs sandbags.
 
I agree. But, a heavier stock will still yield greater results off of a bipod, right?

Agreed.

I would say that the Hogue is a dang good all around stock for the money. Versatile. Me and a trusted cohort put 2k+ down the tube of a 10/22 equipped with a Hogue, an ER shaw barrel, and a Nikon scope last summer. Easy to rapid fire into a two inch steel target at 100 yards from prone and bipod. Tons of fun. Irritated the in laws plenty good.:)
 
With your 'steel' receiver I should think a fine Volquartsen 'Tensioned' bull barrel along with a 'Barracuda' or 'McMillan' fiberglass stock would be great!

The Barracuda type stocks is excellent, it offers a pistol grip, is extremely stiff and light with a completely free floated barrel.

You wouldn't worry with receiver flex or damage while in the woods or other places where you may hit your barrel against something, so the exposed barrel of the Barracuda stock wont be a factor.
Also, this style stock does turn heads and the pistol grip aids in aiming 'up' into trees while you blast squacks.

The forearm on this stock, while small is as stiff as it gets, and can have sling swivels and bi-pods mounted.

If a more traditional stock is your forte then the McMillan fiberglass unit is an excellent, but expesive stock.

If a totally 'adjustable' stock is to your liking, then Bell and Carlson makes one of the best stocks and they are not terribly expensive. I prefer these type stocks for target work.

The Volquartsen 'Tensioned' barrels are sweet, but again, somewhat expensive compared to other barrels that will suffice such as the Butler Creek Carbon Fiber barrels.
The 'Tensioned' type barrels offer the lightest weight with the stiffest construction.

We have had good luck with the Butler Creek barrels, and truth be told, most of the time they shoot just as tight as the fancy barrels costing twice as much, or more!

You can get barrels in any shape, weight or color scheme you want.

Are you considering a 'Roller Bolt' for your build?

Anyway, good luck with it!
 
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The barrel, IMHO, requires much thought. On a bench gun, a steel .920" barrel is just fine and the added weight is welcomed for stability. For a field gun, it is way more trouble than it's worth and you'll quickly get tired of toting it. A light varmint or sporter barrel will shoot just as good as a bull barrel but without the added weight. "Weigh" those options carefully. My first 10/22 was built with a heavy steel 16.5" barrel and I found that it handled like a railroad tie. It was parted out and my Remington 541 became my favorite small game gun. It was accurate but accuracy ain't everything.

I also have to disagree about cheap barrels like Butler Creek. Oftentimes, they hardly shoot better than the stock barrel. Some folks just wanna build one and do so as economically as possible and that is fine. Although I really think that if you're gonna go to the trouble of machining your own receiver out of steel, you should also stick a good barrel on it. So I would choose no less than Clark, Shilen, KID or Lilja. Since you have access to a lathe, you can easily build it with a bull barrel, assess the weight issue and turn it down to the contour of your liking. I find that my new Clark mid-weight 21.5" barrel (.750" at the muzzle) is near about perfect and is actually more accurate than my previous Clark bull barrel. I resides on my LTR/long range/squirrel rifle built with a Nodak receiver, R/T accurized bolt and KID two-stage 14oz trigger. Shoots into ¾"@100yds with Wolf MT. Beware the noise and imbalance of short barrels as well. I wish mine was at least two inches longer.

I'd also suggest NOT cutting your receiver with an integral rail. You may in the future decide to put iron sights on it or shoot long range with it. At which point you will need a 20-30MOA canted base. Which is one reason why I like the Nodak receiver. It's flat-topped and configured for the Marlin 336 base with 8-40 screws. Canted bases are available from Nodak and EGW. Standard bases are common as flies.
 
Uncle Mike said:
With your 'steel' receiver I should think a fine Volquartsen 'Tensioned' bull barrel along with a 'Barracuda' or 'McMillan' fiberglass stock would be great!
The Magnum Research Barracuda stock looks fugly. Right now I'm leaning towards this one
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=236209 or perhaps the hogue.
Also, I already have a lilja barrel on the way, as stated in my first post.

Uncle Mike said:
Are you considering a 'Roller Bolt' for your build?
No idea what that is, and a google search did not help with finding a product.

winknplink said:
If you plan to hunt with and carry this rifle...*snip*
Only things like ground squirrels on occasion, in which case a bipod will probably be used.
 
CraigC said:
I'd also suggest NOT cutting your receiver with an integral rail. You may in the future decide to put iron sights on it or shoot long range with it. At which point you will need a 20-30MOA canted base. Which is one reason why I like the Nodak receiver. It's flat-topped and configured for the Marlin 336 base with 8-40 screws. Canted bases are available from Nodak and EGW. Standard bases are common as flies.
Interesting... what makes the base different for iron sights? is it a rail with an angle or something?
 
What is an EFR scope?
Extended Focal Range

It allows you to use the high end of the scope magnification range, even at close ranges. You'll want one for you rimfire as you'll be shooting closer ranges than most cenerfires.
 
Thumbhole sporters like the Tundra are very comfortable. I have one of their Explorers on my newest (described above) but the comb is not quite high enough, even for peep sights. Should not be an issue with the Tundra unless you are Bigfoot.


Interesting... what makes the base different for iron sights? is it a rail with an angle or something?
The integral rail would greatly limit your iron sight options, though NECG does have a nice one that mounts to Weaver-style rails. A screw hole pattern compatible with aftermarket sights would be preferable for a peep, which is why I like the Marlin-compatible Nodak receiver.

For long range shooting, I was referring to scope mounts with a built-in 20MOA cant for added elevation. Not a dealbreaker if that does not interest you, just something to ponder. It was important to me but may not be to you.
 
I thought we were talking about a .22LR. A scope mount on a .22LR with 20MOA built-in is what I would call... um... optimistic.
 
The Volquartsen 'Tensioned' barrels are sweet, but again, somewhat expensive compared to other barrels that will suffice such as the Butler Creek Carbon Fiber barrels.
The 'Tensioned' type barrels offer the lightest weight with the stiffest construction.

We have had good luck with the Butler Creek barrels, and truth be told, most of the time they shoot just as tight as the fancy barrels costing twice as much, or more!
What about the Al. alloy barrels from Tac. Sol....any experience with them? I am considering one for my build, because the weight is less (when fluted) than the CF barrels and the price lower, but if that compromises accuracy, I will have to think more strongly about a Volquartsen or Butler Creek CF barrel.

FWIW, I would mill the P-rail into the receiver and if you really think you want a tapered base later on (doubtful IMO), you can always grind it down and drill & tap for a standard base. In the meantime you have a stronger monolithic base that is more secure, and also looks a little cleaner.

:)
 
I thought we were talking about a .22LR. A scope mount on a .22LR with 20MOA built-in is what I would call... um... optimistic.
Uh, yeah, we are. I posted in another thread about shooting golf balls and steel targets at 200yds. It's a lot of fun and because it's "just a .22" does not mean that making such shots is impossible. You need approximately 40" of elevation to get a 200yd zero with the .22LR, for which a 20MOA mount is right on the money.

Or are you one of those people who think you can't hit anything that far away but have never tried it???
 
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