4D5
Member
I posted this on a caliber appropriate board but got very little feedback so I thought I'd post here and see what folks had to say...
This is my first 10/22 build, have to say it was a lot of work (at least building the fixture) but had fun doing it.
It started out as the standard carbine from Wally World.
Parts etc:
Stock – tried a thumbhole stock but the reach was too long so I decided on modifying the original, painted satin black with satin urethane top coat.
Barrel – Tactical Solutions threaded end (for suppressor)
The barrel is currently free floated, which may change after it’s had a few range trips for testing.
Scope – already had from another rimfire
Recoil pad – from previously used shotgun, ground to fit
Trigger – original added over travel set screw
Mag release – replaced with extended
Fire control – waiting for Power Custom internals
First thing was to build the fixture to hold the stock for routing. This probably took most of the time, but I worked on it off and on while doing other woodworking projects.
Here’s the fixture and stock. It’s purpose built and only good for this job but I figure I can use it again and if friends want to do the same I can do for them in under an hour. I built it so the stock could be removed and checked and replaced if more routing needed. The stock indexes off the receiver slot and the barrel strap part in the front, later to be cut off. The front of the stock is held down by a screw. I calculated how much to widend it by measuring the barrel at the front, subtracting .920 giving the difference or how much more needed to be removed in total, divide by two then add that back to the width of the barrel which gives the width centered. Measuring from the opposite side of the barrel, on each side, I marked the location on the yellow post-it strips. The pencil marks are used to index the adjustable guides (the amount of offset for the router base to the router bit cutter edge).
This picture shows everything setup and routed, took less than a minute to plow out. Used a 7/8” cove bit.
Since this went so well I proceeded to plow out the screw mount area so a large washer could be epoxyed in for support so the receiver was not clamped to the wood by the mounting screw.
Here’s the back of the stock cut off square with the birch filler added so the stock didn’t have to be shortened too much. It’s later contoured.
Next I bansawed the front off at 22 1/2 deg., just removing the barrel strap area.
With that done I contoured the stock top so it is rounded from front of the comb to recoil pad. The pistol grip area was/is way too fat for my liking so I took the rasp to it and thinned it down quite a bit. Here’s the stock ready for paint.
Here’s the stock all finished with the recoil pad ground to fit and the scope mounted. It has 3 coats of black satin paint and 6 coats satin urethane. This picture does not have the over travel setscrew as I have since done that and is still waiting the fire control parts.
This is my first 10/22 build, have to say it was a lot of work (at least building the fixture) but had fun doing it.
It started out as the standard carbine from Wally World.
Parts etc:
Stock – tried a thumbhole stock but the reach was too long so I decided on modifying the original, painted satin black with satin urethane top coat.
Barrel – Tactical Solutions threaded end (for suppressor)
The barrel is currently free floated, which may change after it’s had a few range trips for testing.
Scope – already had from another rimfire
Recoil pad – from previously used shotgun, ground to fit
Trigger – original added over travel set screw
Mag release – replaced with extended
Fire control – waiting for Power Custom internals
First thing was to build the fixture to hold the stock for routing. This probably took most of the time, but I worked on it off and on while doing other woodworking projects.
Here’s the fixture and stock. It’s purpose built and only good for this job but I figure I can use it again and if friends want to do the same I can do for them in under an hour. I built it so the stock could be removed and checked and replaced if more routing needed. The stock indexes off the receiver slot and the barrel strap part in the front, later to be cut off. The front of the stock is held down by a screw. I calculated how much to widend it by measuring the barrel at the front, subtracting .920 giving the difference or how much more needed to be removed in total, divide by two then add that back to the width of the barrel which gives the width centered. Measuring from the opposite side of the barrel, on each side, I marked the location on the yellow post-it strips. The pencil marks are used to index the adjustable guides (the amount of offset for the router base to the router bit cutter edge).
This picture shows everything setup and routed, took less than a minute to plow out. Used a 7/8” cove bit.
Since this went so well I proceeded to plow out the screw mount area so a large washer could be epoxyed in for support so the receiver was not clamped to the wood by the mounting screw.
Here’s the back of the stock cut off square with the birch filler added so the stock didn’t have to be shortened too much. It’s later contoured.
Next I bansawed the front off at 22 1/2 deg., just removing the barrel strap area.
With that done I contoured the stock top so it is rounded from front of the comb to recoil pad. The pistol grip area was/is way too fat for my liking so I took the rasp to it and thinned it down quite a bit. Here’s the stock ready for paint.
Here’s the stock all finished with the recoil pad ground to fit and the scope mounted. It has 3 coats of black satin paint and 6 coats satin urethane. This picture does not have the over travel setscrew as I have since done that and is still waiting the fire control parts.