10/22 Scope Mounts and Triggers

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444

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I am in the process of purchasing a rather expensive Ruger 10/22; $900+.
I would like to do some of the customary add-ons, but I want to do it right the first time. I have other 10/22s which vary from totally custom, to bone stock. What I would like to find out is the current state of the art for a 10/22.
First of all I am looking for a good scope mount. In the past, I have used one piece mounts that very made very well and were solid as a rock, however their drawback was that the rings were machined out of the same block of material that everything else was made out of. This meant that you could not change the height of the rings. Since this new rifle may see more than it's share of night shooting, I would like to mount a fairly large objective lens scope on it. So I will need high rings. I am thinking that possibly the way to go would be installing a Weaver rail on the reciever. Suggestions ?
Then of course the trigger. As anyone answering this post knows, the trigger options are almost endless. THe custom 10/22 I own now had a triggerjob done by a gunsmith along with a screw that limits overtravel. Back when I involved in that project I saw aftermarket tirgger parts, spring kits, and even a replacement for the whole trigger group. What seems to be the best way to go with cost not being an object ?
 
Also, anything else that you consider a "must have" for the 10/22 would be appreciated.
 
The rifle itself will be pretty much stock. It will have one of the Hogue Overmounlded stocks on it. Actually, let me explain, the rifle is an AAC PHOENIX silenced rifle.

http://www.advanced-armament.com/
 
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Money no object? I read on www.rimfirecentral.com that the Kid Triggers are really really nice. I have the Volq trigger unit and couldn't be happier. I'd suggest one of those barrel mounted cantilever scope mounts, but don't know if that's possible with the silencer. If the rifle is stock except for silencer, price seems sorta steep to me. $150 for the rifle and $40 for the hogue and then $700 for the silencer?
 
Thumbhole stock: I am trying to keep this rifle, high speed low drag. I want it to be fairly light and streamlined. I do have a Boyds thumbhole stock on one of my other 10/22s and it is a great stock but not what I am looking for in this rifle.


Volq trigger unit: By this do you mean the one that replaces the whole trigger group ?

Cost: Yes, it is expensive, but when you are dealing with NFA weapons you have to pay the tariff. Adding up the cost of the parts doesn't really work. For example I can buy a nice AR15 for maybe $750. But, an M16 might cost you 10 grand not because it has perhaps $50 worth of different parts in it but because it is a specialty item with a narrow market. Of course a direct comparison of a machine gun to a suppressor doesn't really work because suppressors can still be legally manufactured whereas machine guns can't. But you get the idea.

Kidd Triggers; Do they have a webpage ?

Rimfire Central: I guess I need to research some stuff there. I used to spend a lot of time on that board but my interest in 10/22 got sidetracked and I haven't been there for a couple years now.
 
Rimfire Central is a good place to get a sampling of tricks and techniques.

Get the trigger working the way you want it on that supressed 10/22, 444. Volquartsen and Power Custom are two places I went for my FrankenRuger. Get a bolt buffer to keep it quiet and smooth. Nice things to have include the no-hands bolt release modification, an extended magazine release, and a bipod mount for popping those darned rats at the city dump, etc. ;)
 
Now that I see that Kidd webpage, I remember seeing it before. He doesn't list a price and if you click on "buy it" it says this service is no longer available. When that Volquartsen trigger first came out I really wanted one but thought it was too expensive. But, that was a few years back and my income has improved since that time, not to mention the fact that my inhibitions about blowing lots of money on toys have gone down considerably.

I believe the shock buffer will be essential. Not only will it buffer shock, but it will also make things even less noisy.

Agreed about the extended mag release. I have a huge machined version on my custom 10/22 that sticks down about three inches with a nice knurled section on the bottom. I wouldn't want something like that on this gun, but the factory mag lease isn't pleasant.

You guys are refreshing my memory of the options out there, keep them coming.

Bipod mount: don't bipods just mount on the front sling swivel ? I have one, but it came on the rifle and I never really looked at it closely ?
 
My bad.

My FrankenRuger's Fajen Aristocrat had no sling swivels. I ended up putting a pair of them in up front, ala' the 700PSS setup, so I could sling and add my B-Square bipod. (I don't like Harris bipods, those exposed and noisy springs drive me nuts!)

The shock buffer's nice when shooting through a scope of any magnification above, say, 4x. Your field of view stays pretty much intact as the gun cycles, really nice!

I even went the extra mile and got the trigger shims and oversized trigger group pins. I hate sideplay on triggers, now my Ruger feels like a decent Anschutz, but I've got a buttload of money inside the trigger group, too. Too bad I can't list Volquartsen and Power Custom as tax write-offs. :(
 
Gewehr98
Since you went a different route, what do you think the pros and cons are of using the after-market trigger parts as opposed to juct buying the Volquartsen Trigger Guard 2000 ? I know what you mean about buying all this junk. I even have a Timney trigger in a Gewehr 48.

Larry; that is just about what I am looking for unless there is one out there that is more "trick". I had a heck of a time on that custom 10/22 I built with the scope mount. I made the mistake of starting with an old 10/22 that I had had for years. I had scopes on and off of it several times. A couple of the screw holes eventually stripped out of the alluminum. I ended up putting the scope base on with stock bedding compound. On this rifle I would like to figure out my best option and mount the scope base ONCE and one time only.



ontargetguns.com is a site I had forgotten about. They seem to have most of the 10/22 stuff all in one place.
 
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Probably a lot less hassle and tweaking...

To go with the prefab Volquartsen trigger group. It wasn't available when I did my rifle, though. :(


darin22-1.gif
 
I have one that looks a lot like that. I had it built up my CPC.
It has a Douglas barrel screwed into a threaded action. Trigger job done on the stock trigger, jeweled bolt, cleaning hole, Boyd Blaster stock, Weaver 36X scope, bolt buffer, large mag release, tuning screw in the forearm.
I never shoot it. I should dust it off and start competing in those postal matches rimfirecentral.com has. To be honest I was really hot on that project. I did nothing but research 10/22s for months. I sent it away and while I was waiting I got interested in something else and I think I have fired the gun like once. I know I haven't fired it since I replaced the scope rings and scope.

What I would like to use for rings would be a ring that using something like the Burris Posi-Align (or whatever they call it) insersts, Weaver base, and a quick release feature. I doubt that such an animal is being made however. I really like using the Burris rings. It allows you to acheive a mechanical zero leaving all the scope adjustments centered. It also prevents marring of the scope tube. The quick release feature would allow me to switch out optics in the event I might want to use a red dot or night vision. I really got into that whole "modular" concept with my AR15s and like the versitility.
 
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Get the whole trigger group from Volquartsen. It contains all need upgrades, including one-hand-bolt, extended mag release, lighter pull and overtravel screw. If you have any troubles with it, you can send it back and get it fixed or replaced.

Kidd is supposed to be much lighter pull and just as high quality. Costs twice as much.

I prefer Weigand weaver-style scope mounts. Use loc-tite when installing and DO NOT OVERTORQUE THE SCREWS as the receiver is aluminum, as you know. Once it's on, never take it off. I prefer Weaver 4x4 offset rings to get the scope a little farther away from my eye. They are very secure and attractive.

See you at

www.rimfirecentral.com
 
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I saw a rifle pic exactly like that one before.The fella that owned it went by the handle of "Raven" if memory serves me.About 2-3yrs.ago on rimfirecentral.
 
That "Raven" dude does look familiar, don't he?..

Probably because he was (is) me on other forums like Rimfire Central, Jouster.com, and the old Lee-Enfield board on gunandknife.com. ;)
 
Dumb question time - with all this expensive parts swapping on the 10/22, would it make more sense to just start with a Volquartsen brand rifle up front?

It's out of my price range, but I kinda like the steel receiver and it still looks like a 10/22.

Regards.
 
Well there are several ways of looking at it. First of all, building up a semi-custom rifle is fun. I don't try to rationalize my hobbies to death, we engage in hobbies for fun, so instead of analizing everything, just have fun. Seondly, building up the rifle from parts and bolting on the parts yourself allows you to spread the cash outlay over a period of time. You buy the rifle as you can afford it, then buy each part as you can afford it. There is no big lump sump investment even though you very well might end up spending as much or more than if you had just bought a more expensive rifle to begin with. Third, by doing it this way, you can build the rifle exactly the way YOU want it. You buy the parts that appeal to you and the parts that cater to your needs. You don't have to stick with one manufacturer. You can do whatever you want.
For purposes of this particular thread, the base rifle is an NFA weapon. As far as I know, Volquartsen doesn't maufacture NFA weapons, so I would be starting out with a rifle that isn't what I want.
 
I think of the 10/22 like the old Volkswagen beetles when I was growing up. Easy to work on and what you learn by wrenching on them can be put to good use on more serious projects later.

I learned how to use barrel bedding materials there before moving on to bedding my Mauser project. What works (and doesn't work) on trigger tuning prior to messing with any of my center fires.

And getting on intimate knowledge of the workings of the weapon makes troubleshooting malfunctions in other guns easier too. Plus I think doing it yourself gives you a greater pride in ownership of a superbly functioning weapon.
 
444, thanks for the answers.

The "NFA" reference has something to do with licensing the silencer? Was that the National Firearms Act from the late 1930's?

I understand the appeal of adding upgrades. I have a garage full of obsolete car parts, carburetors etc. :) Anyone remember carburetors? Points?

I just figured that when you're done fooling around, you have a great rifle, AND a junk box with gritty trigger, skinny barrel, varnished pulpwood stock, all the throwaway stuff.

Does anyone sell "stripped receivers", either aluminum or steel?

Oh, yeah, nice looking rifle, Gewehr98. Is the scope eyepiece far enough forward to be comfortable?

Regards.
 
Yes, several companies offer stripped receivers. Check the Brownells catalog, or check the posts as rimfirecentral.com

This gun has an integral suppressor. In other words it looks just like a 10/22 with a heavy barrel. It won't come with the factory barrel or the factory stock. I had the option of getting an upgraded trigger, but decided that it would only take longer to get the gun after I ordered it and I knew that the parts were readily available, so I chose not to get the trigger.
 
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