High End 10/22 Suggestions Sought

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444

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Two years ago, I ordered a Ruger 10/22 with an integral suppressor. I found out today, my dealer got the barrel/suppressor and nothing else. He said that he would order me a factory 10/22 and install the barrel onto the new action.
OK, so this got me thinking. Should I go ahead and let him get me a regular 10/22 to use for an action or should I consider getting one of those aftermarket actions from Brownells ? The ones that are really made out of stainless.
Trigger: I am going down tomorrow to a different local shop and buying a Kidd Trigger that they have in stock.
Stock: Another dilema. This rifle is going to be a "sporter" rifle. Not a bench rifle. I want something that is practical to carry around, not some huge piece of lumber or something with an adjustable cheek rest. I have always been partial to the Hogue Over-Moulded stock myself, but don't have any real experience with it.
Scope Mount/Rings. What is the hot set up in scope mounts and rings ? The last good aftermarket scope mount I bought was a one piece mount from Jack Weigand. The problem with that set-up is that it doesn't offer enough clearence for a large objective lens (the rings are machined as one piece with the base).
Optics: I want to put a fairly large magnification scope on this rifle. Right now I am thinking along the lines of one of the higher end rimfire scopes vs. buying a Leupold from Premier Reticle that has the parallax adjusted to 50 yards.

Again, this is a fairly high end project. I have over $900 invested in the base gun/suppressor. I am not interested in flea market Chinese optics or any kind of low budget parts. I want the good stuff.
 
444 I have 3 10/22 they all carry the houge stock 2 are build bymyself and one is a Clark. as to the regular receiver or the stainless dont see a big advantage. scopes use both weaver and leupold they do a great job.

I see you are in Vegas and you are welcome to try the ones I have. If it took me as long to get the parts from my dealer as it did you I would not want any further work from them.

Roy
 
This sounds like quite a project. You might get some help over on Rimfire Central http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/ They have 4 separate sections devoted completely to the 10/22 and components.

For a stock, you might want to look at Boyd's Ross Thumbhole stock. I have one on my 10/22, and it works fine on a rest and you can add sling swivels to carry it around. It doesn't weigh a lot but is just large enough to hold comfortably but not feel like a bench rifle. The barrel channel is set up for a .920 bull barrel and with mine, I didn't really have to do any inletting.

Jack Weigand makes excellent mounts, so how about his rail with something like a set of Burris Signature Zee rings in the High size. You should be able to mount a scope with a 50mm objective lens.

The factory Ruger receiver is aluminum on both the "blued" and "stainless" rifles so the steel M.O.A. receiver looks like a good deal but you would still have to have a bolt installed and properly headspaced. It looks like that receiver costs as much as an entire basic 10/22 carbine :eek:
 
Sounds like a great project. I have read alot about the Kidd triggers and they seem to be universally loved by everyone that has one. As for optics, I would seriously consider a Sightron SII624x42 or a Bushnell Elite 4200 6-24x40 Mil Dot if you want to save a few bucks over buying a Leupold and still get excellent quality. I would use either the VQ Base (if the barrel is already drilled and tapped for it) or the Power Custom Receiver Scope Mount with Burris Signature Zee rings. Good luck and be sure to post pictures when it is done.
 
If you are going all out get yourself a MOA Stainless reciever, they have two mounting lugs which is far superior than any typical 1 screw reciever.

The KIDD trigger is a great choice.

As far as stocks, get what you want and have it nicely bedded. Extra work would be required to fit a MOA rear lug.
If you have the money, and it sounds like you do, get yourself a McMillan.

Weigand makes a good mount, but I like the felxability of normal weaver rails. Power Custom makes a nice thick and sturdy reciever mounted base, so does Volquartsen.
 
How about one of these RB Precision stocks:

5fb58dc0.jpg


And a Volquartsen receiver:

RECEIVER.gif
 
If you're going all out don't send your bolt to CPC, just get a Volquartsen.
bolt.gif


It has a round firing pin, much better than the inconsistent factory slot and flat pin (which CPC can fix by staking the pin, but it's still not as cool).
 
Some great stuff so far. I haven't had time to look at them much, but definitely some stuff I didn't know about.
I had CPC put me together a rifle a few years ago. Barrel is screwed into the action, trigger job, jeweled bolt, Boyd stock with pressure adjustment to the front end, Weaver T36 scope (I don't remember what mount and rings I used right now)............................
At that time, I was reading a forum on 10/22s: I think it was called Gitz's or something like that. I think the forum mentioned above is the more recent version of that forum. At the time, the rifle I put together was state of the art. I haven't kept up with the 10/22 game since then. And, I think I shot that rifle once.
 
Stock: Another dilema. This rifle is going to be a "sporter" rifle. Not a bench rifle. I want something that is practical to carry around, not some huge piece of lumber or something with an adjustable cheek rest. I have always been partial to the Hogue Over-Moulded stock myself, but don't have any real experience with it.
Click to expand...

Boyd's drop in stocks. I have the smart stock and it is very functional and also pretty.

As for the scope I myself have a custom Leupold from Premier Reticles with a fine crosshair, target turrets, and extended focal range. They are very reasonable and I reccomend them 100%.
 
If you ever shoot with a tight sling, I would skip the Hogue overmolded stock. It is VERY flexible, and contacts the barrel.

Owen
 
The fact that it contacts the barrel is the reason I have shyed away from it in the past. If feels great in the hands and I think it looks good, but I always wondered if you were giving up a lot of accuracy with it.
As I mentioned, I haven't kept up on the current state of the art in 10/22s, but the last I read, the thing to do was to bed a pressure pad into the end of the stock foreend that exerts pressure on the barrel at that point. That is the purpose of that screw I have on my Boyd's stock. I have also read that if you try to float a heavy barrel in an aluminum 10/22 action, that you will eventually crack the action from the weight of the barrel and the fact that it is acting as a lever due to it's length.
I don't know how heavy my barrel is going to be. I believe it is .920" diameter, BUT keep in mind that it is an integral suppressor: the barrel is far smaller in diamter than the OD of what you see.
 
That's why you should get the steel MOA reciever, it's steel so it's more durable and it has two lugs, so you don't have to bed the barrel in any way.
The guys who put pressure pads in the forarms are doing it to support the barrel weight. With a rear lug on the MOA reciever you wont have that problem.
 
I haven't looked into it since I foo-fooed mine, but when I was investigating custom 10/22's the conversations on rimfirecental.com and benchrest.com were about glass bedding the whole barrel in front of the clamp, and floating the action. Glassing the Hogue Overmolded would stiffen it up alot, but there is MUCHO space to fill on that stock. I am guessing glassing the whole forend would add 2-3 lbs. I also don't recall how they were sucring the gun in the stock with the action floated.

Have you thought about the heat from the suppressor? I don't know how hot a suppressed .22 would get if you decide to do some hosing. IME, it takes about a half a magazine before the MP5SD suppressors become untouchable. That may be another reason to shy away from the overmolded stock.

The other issue I have with the stock is that the comb of the stock is way to low to use with the heads up type sights. I have a Hakko on my 10/22, and I had to pretty much put the side of my chin on the comb to center the dot.

Regardless, it's still hell on a plate rack. :)
 
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This may sound like a contradiction, but I am not trying to squeeze the last little bit of accuracy possible out of the 10/22 system. I want to keep the rifle light and agile. I want this rifle to be more at home leaning against the wall to pop the occasional varmint out in the yard rather than filling a role on a benchrest. I want this to be a rifle that would be a pleasure to carry when out walking the dog. I want this rifle to be something that you take a pot shot out the window of the truck when you are off-roading. I am probably not going to be bedding the stock and all that. I am much more interested in good optics in a good mount. Good trigger, although on second thought the Kidd might be beyond what I envision for this rifle. I might take the Kidd and put it on my heavy 10/22 and put the trigger that is presently on that (trigger job done by CPC) and put it on this suppressed 10/22.
This is not to say that I don't want the best and coolest possible outcome. But, I don't want to get away from the fact that I don't want to end up with a heavy, cumbersome target rifle.
On that heavy 10/22 I own, accuracy is the point. That was the goal in building it. This new 10/22 is going to be a field gun.
 
In that case look for a synthetic stock (Bell and Carlson, Volquartsen, McMillan), they're much lighter than laminates. If you like the rubber feel then go with the Hogue. See if you can handle one first, I have one and don't think the grip is the best.
Also, just get yourself a standard 10/22 carbine. IMHO the largest fault of the 10/22 design is the single take down screw. The inside of the reciever is a little loose, but the aftermarket recievers can't improve it but so much and I don't think the amount of improvement is worth the price.
 
Hmm, a couple products that you could look into are -
A lightweight Clark barrel
A McMillan sporter stock

Leupold RF compact 4x or 2-7x
Burris Zees (low)

With these you could keep the weight down (even further if you got the Clark barrel chopped to 16") and have a very accurate + handy combination.
 
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