10/22 sling stud issue

[Zanealexander1]

Hello all. I recently purchased a sling for my 10/22 sporter walnut stock. Problem is- It’s 1.25” webbing and the factory sling mounts won’t accept that as they are too small. Would bigger sling studs crack my stock when threading into the wood?

 

[edwardware]

I seem to recall that those studs aren't drilled through. Once you drill them, a standard set of 1.25" swivels should do.

 

[Reloadron]

The sling swivel studs are the same for 1.000" and 1.250" slings. I would just unscrew the existing and replace with some Uncle Mikes or brand you like new swivels. You will not split or damage the stock unless you really torque the suckers down into it.

Ron

 

[Zanealexander1]

Ok, thanks. Would leaving the factor studs in and just cutting the loop out be a better decision? I just don’t want to booger anything up.

 

[Reloadron]

Ok, thanks. Would leaving the factor studs in and just cutting the loop out be a better decision? I just don’t want to booger anything up.

I thought about suggesting that and going with some QD (Quick Disconnect) 1.250 loops but didn't mention it. If the QD loops will snap on the existing swivels that is what I would do. Somewhere I have a box of sling hardware and I was going to check but I can't remember where that box is.

Ron

 

[Zanealexander1]

Hmm. Not sure which way to go . I want to make sure I use components that won’t drop my rifle. What do you guys recommend ?

 

[Reloadron]

I remembered I had a Ruger 10/22 birch wood stock. Uncle Mikes 14033 are 1.250" and will go right on your existing studs. Available from just about any supplier of your choice and should be on the shelf in any sporting goods store.

Ron

 

[Zanealexander1]

Great, thanks. That’s what I’ll do. Have you fellows continued to have pretty good luck with uncle mikes stuff as of late? I heard they went to chinese production, but not sure.

 

[herrwalther]

I added Uncle Mikes swivel mounts to my Marlin 336. I used an oversized stud just because I didn't like the one that was already in the wood stock.I had a tube of wood filler nearby in case I needed to fill the hole in with something that the stud would grab onto. Thankfully I didn't need to use any but it was nice to have on hand in case I did. Drill just enough into the wood to get started when putting the stud in. I only drilled maybe a 1/4" into the wood. I used a nylon washer to add more stability to the larger stud.

 

[kenboyles72]

just buy the 1.25 swivel sling kit, unscrew the existing, screw the other in, the screw part should be the same diameter.

 

[jmr40]

Just drill the hole all all the way through the stud and use any common swivel. It is a 30 second job on each stud. It takes longer to get tools out.

 

[Zanealexander1]

Thanks for all the advice, everyone! I’ll be tackling this little job this evening.

 

[Zanealexander1]

So I drilled the rear stud out a little “out of round”. Does anyone see that as an issue that calls for a new stud or should I be fine?

 

[Reloadron]

So I drilled the rear stud out a little “out of round”. Does anyone see that as an issue that calls for a new stud or should I be fine?

While I am not sure why you did any drilling if the old stud is out and a new stud & swivel in that's all there should be to it. If the drilling is slightly off centerline I doubt it will matter.

Ron

 

[Zanealexander1]

Ron, I left the factory studs in the stock, but had to drill out the center because the whole doesn’t go all the way through. I was paying too much attention to the “level bubble” on top of my drill instead of the actual angle in which the stock was canted.

 

[Reloadron]

It should be fine.

Ron

 

[Skylerbone]

I would ditch the factory studs for Uncle Mikes and be done. Trying to line up interrupted holes in a tiny stud is asking for an accident. Never had a problem with Uncle Mikes QDs.