10mm brass case bulge

[Mike 27]

Doing some research on the Lone Wolf Barrel's and saw in their FAQ's referencing case bulge on the 10mm/40, and a recommendation to use the redding die to eliminate this. Is this something that I need to worry about if I keep the stock barrel? It talks about chambering issues because of the bulge at the bottom of the case due to the re-sizing die not going all the way to the bottom. I have only reloaded my 10mm cases 3 times and no issue so far but I can see a bulge at the bottom. The brass is not easy to come by as most of the other calibers that I reload. Just wondering if I need to pick up one of these dies as they are $72 for the carbide. The brass seems to work well in my G 20 so far, but if this will prolong my brass life I may pick one of these up.

 

[Blue68f100]

On Gen 1 Glock's the case was not fully supported causing this, since has been corrected. If you not having problems no need to worry about it now.

 

[RyeDaddy]

As said, if you're not having problems don't look for them. I had a G20SF (Gen 3)and with REALLY hot loads I'd get a bulge at the case head that resizing with regular dies wouldn't fix, but mid loads weren't any problem. Can't remember any that wouldn't chamber because of the bulge though. I had a LWD barrel, and never had any bulges using it.

 

[rcmodel]

If you don't try to make a .44 Magnum out of your 10mm pistol, you won't have case bulge.

rc

 

[Clark]

There are two kinds of bulges.
a) Guppy belly case bulge from herniating over the feed ramp.
b) Midriff bulge from Glock making chamber base larger than SAAMI max.

This case bulge in a piece of 30-30 brass I fired in my Glock 20 10mm has guppy belly case bulge in the shape of the feed ramp.

 

[Mike 27]

My first glock and finding a few differences that my other pistols. They seem to chamber well but I only have one batch that have 3 loads on them. I am about to place an order from the lower 48, and if it is something I will need was trying to save another shipping charge a few weeks from now. I have nice upper end load already tested with a 180gr TMJ, but for plinking I will be using a bit less of a charge for an enjoyable day at the range. The upper end is fun for a few shots but not a plinker.

 

[LiveLife]

I think the "guppy" bulge from Factory Glock barrel is more subtle like below (see pic). Due to very tight fully supported chambers, I do not get bulges from Lone Wolf barrels.

 

[Mike 27]

That is what led me to the question. I was thinking of a LW barrel, and in the FAQ's they referenced the redding die. I appreciate the answers, guess I am going to hold off for now.

 

[GJgo]

When I sold my 10mm 1911 off for a S&W 610, I had to buy a Lee factory crimp die & run my entire stash through it to get them to chamber. Reason being the reloaded rounds (Hornady die set) would only slide in about 3/4 of the way then bind up. I now use one of these in all my semi-auto cartridge reloading.

 

[dsb1829]

My gen3 g20 does the guppie belly on all but light factory ammo. I run my brass through a Lee FCD and a bulge buster kit. May not be necessary and could leed to shorter case life. I am leaning towards getting an aftermarket barrel. 10mm is a reloader's cartridge and a loose glock chamber feeds everything, but the combination is not the best.