1858 remington pietta replacement cylinder

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Have you tried an easy out?
Since the nipples are ruined you might as well go all the way in removing them. A little heat can help.

I use Uncle Mikes Stainless steel nipples for my 51 Navy. They are a good replacement.

PS
You might try working a needle nosed pliers jaws around the nipple to grind away the mushrooming. Can't explain it much better. Most needle nosed plier jaws have teeth as hard as a file. Wouldn't be a neat job but might allow you to continue to use the nipples.
 
Don't mess about.
1) Cheapest way is new nipples which you should be able to remove with a little 'lateral thinking' if you cant get a nipple wrench on them. They obviously have holes so use a tool that is attached to a drill and has a LH thread on a cone to drill into then unscrew the nipples.
2) If the nipples are 100% jammed in then go for a new cylinder.

When I have shot my 1858 I ALWAYS strip it right down and clean it in hot, soapy water. That includes taking the nipples out and cleaning them. I have posted this before but it might help you in the future.

NIP-CLEAN-1-WEB.jpg

NIP-CLEAN-3-WEB.jpg

I made it after I got fed up with scruubing my fingers as well as the nipples!
 
The best tool to use when working on stuck nipples is patience.

First of all, a nipple wrench is very unlikely to solve the problem alone, attached to a drill or anything else. The vast majority of them are far too soft and the nipple will just damage the shoulders of the wrench. There are hardened nipple wrenches available for a few dollars, and the 'investment' is worth it in the long run. So, first, buy one ot those hardened wrenches.

Second, some sort of chemical intervention is needed. The corrosion in the nipple threads will be almost impossible to overcome (the nipples are bonded to the cylinder at the molecular level) without help. There are many such products and several 'urban legend' fluids that will provide some help in this area. You'll probably get lots of suggestions about diesel fuel, transmission fluid, WD-40, etc. I've used them all have no advice as to which is better for what - it depends on the level, type and amount of corrosion and we have no way of knowing what that's like in this case. Get a good commercial rust removal product and use it as directed.

Except, again, remember patience. Set the cylinder on it's face and fill each nipple recess with the anti-rust fluid of choice. The order the nipple wrench. Leave the cylinder sit until the wrench arrives. Add some fluid every day until that happens. Then turn the cylinder over and put some fluid in each chamber, so that it can attack the corrosion from the other side.

After about 3 or 4 days of adding the anti-rust fluid you are ready to start trying the wrench. Steady, even pressure. If that does not work, go back to the fluid for a couple more days and then try again. If there's still no success after a few attempts, use a propane torch to heat each nipple - it won't take much heat.

If none of that works, buy the cylinder.
 
First of all, a nipple wrench is very unlikely to solve the problem alone, attached to a drill or anything else.
Click to expand...

I must not have made myself clear. The tool that I am suggesting is used to remove studs that have sheared in blind holes such as in a cylinder block etc.,
First you would drill a hole in the sheared stud then apply this tool which has a LH cutting thread thus as it cuts into and locks in the hole it also unscrews the stud. Because of the acute angle of the taper on the thread it will lock off very quickly. As nipples already have holes in them half the job is already done:)

As regards the nipple wrench, I bought a hardened one that was made by Pietta ( my 1858 is also a Pietta ) and it works fine.
 
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if the nipples on revolvers can be a problem. Shouldnt one use an antisieze compound on them. This would make removing them a lot easier.
 
One fellow I've met used the white plumbers tape on his nipples, I don't know if it works but he seemed to think it does.

The Easy outs come in several styles. Some are just lefthand threaded while others are a lefthand spiral, one type has two or more angled blades which cut deep into the metal when you turn it to unscrew the stuck bolt or screw.

Generally powder residue mixes with oils to form a laquerlike material which hardens like glue.
I've cleaned a few older shotguns where powder residue had mixed with lubes and wax from paper shells. The hardened mixe looked like dried automobile paint. I used carbureter cleaner on those to dissolve the hardened fouling.

Heat can generaly free up just about any stuck threads. You mustn't over heat anything though. I've set a cylinder on a stove eye turned to low for a minute or so and the nipples unscrewed easily enough.

I don't remove my nipples at every cleaning, but only because I don't want to wear out the threads.

I'd noticed that original nipples have a much thiner ring where the cap seats and seldom show damage though the hammer springs of an original are often stronger and snappier than repro springs.
On a few repair jobs I've reshaped the bulged nipple and though noticably shorter they shoot just fine.
If the hammer is contacting the nipple then the nipple is too long, afterall the purpose is to compress the priming compound not to flaten the cap or drive it onto the nipple any more than necessary.

PS
I've found that using a countersink turned by hand to thin the ring at the nipple mouth, just as found on original nipples, gives better ignition. The whole cap doesn't have to be crushed just the outside edge of the priming compound. The smaller surface area increases the compression of the material that is in contact. It ignites and the rest of the primer compound ignites along with it.

I've seen primer filling crush without igniting when a nipple was mashed enough to show a broad mating surface. The force had been spread out too far.

Also i've noticed that very slightly bulged nipples can hold the fired cap in place better, at least when using no.10 caps. The cap metal shows a slight ring as it slips down over the bulge and its springiness lets it grip the bulge to form a good tight seal. Less likely for unfired caps to blow off and fired caps are less likely to blow back under the hammer.

A slightly bulged no.10 nipple can often handle no.11 caps , or either size comfortably.
 
If you didn't try Kroil, you didn't do "everything", yet ! And, provided you haven't wrecked the cylinder, you can always drill out the old nipples and remove them with a stuck bolt remover.......after the Kroil treatment. >MW
 
Cabela's is the only place I myself know about that will ALWAYS give excellent customer service. Their price for a spare cylinder is probably about as good as you're going to find and stiil be assured that you received a quality product PLUS if you have a problem with it they will send you another one out before they even get the old one back. But you're not too likely to have a problem with anything like that which you order from Cabela's.
IF you ever have a problem with a Cabela's product, bypass the regular customer service number 1-800-237-4444 and call 1-800-237-8888 and explain your problem. They will get you taken care of in a hurry...Okay...
 
Who makes hardened revolver nipple wrenches? I have one stick nipple in my 58 Rem, and I've sheared 2 Traditions wrenches already.

Kroil has worked very well for me on busted/rusted screws in an old Winchester 94 carbine that spent a few years as a neighbor's trunk gun. It IS the best, IMHO.
 
Last night i put antiseize. The same gray stuff i use on caliper bolt and spark plugs. I cleaned off all the oil from my hand guns. Then put on the antisieze on all the nipples. Then at the range i put a percussion cap on all the nipples. fired off on round. Then i shot all day with them. Tonight when i put the wrench on them. They were so easy to unscrew. So after i cleaned up everything i recoated all the nipples again. So im sticking with the gray stuff this stuff see link

http://www.permatex.com/products/in...nti-seize/Permatex_Anti-Seize_Lubricant_b.htm
 
Final try

Thank you all for your help and suggestions.I soaked the cylinder in a glass jar of Kroil for eight days, having 5 more nipples to try to remove I also purchased a German-make ease-out/screw removal set.I followed the instructions and broke two off.I then tried heat in the form of a torch and broke the tool end of another ease-out.I will now buy a new cylinder from Cabelas, I've enjoyed trying, thanks again.
 
MissedShot: Let us know how the replacement cylinder works out.

I've had one stuck nipple in my Pietta S.S. 1858, but 6 weeks in Kroil, and a new DGW "L"-shaped nipple wrench worked out well. Got it out last week.
 
replacement cylinder

I now have my replacement cylinder from Cabelas.It matches my blueing near perfectly and the timing and lock-up is better than original.A very good experiece as usual.Let me also tell everybody that they are stocking parts "kits" which includes a hammer, trigger, hand, springs, etc. for about $25.00 for all of that!I may drill out and do a countersink/pinned helicoil of sorts with my old cylinder.
 
if you end up ordering a new cylinder...i would get a new hand at the same time. just to save a second shipping later...gpr
 
To prevent stuck nipples I always put a small dab of CopperLube on the threads before reinstalling them. It worked for me on high temp. aircraft engine spark plugs and seems to work equally well on C&B revolver nipples.

This stuff lasts forever. I am still using the tube I bought about 20 years ago.
 
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