Pietta New Army help.

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C Younger

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I’ve been giving my Pietta New Army a good work over and am trying to figure a way to keep the hammer from striking the nipples. On my Pietta 1860 Army and my Ruger Old Army I don’t get the mushrooming nipples like I do on my New Army. It appears that on both the Ruger and the 1860 the hammer doesn’t quite reach the nipples, but on the New Army the hammer rests on the uncapped nipples without touching the frame.
Would it be better to shorten the cones on the nipples or take some metal off the nose of the hammer? Time wise, the hammer seems to be the right place, but I’m planning on upgrading to some better nipples and don’t know what the cone length on them will be. I don’t want to have a problem with the hammer not getting close enough to fire a cap due to the new nipples having a shorter cone than the ones that came in the gun.
 
Removing metal from the hammer is a one time thing. Once it is done, the cones all need to be the same length so buy the longest ones available and get a lifetime supply. Every time you want a new set, they will need to be matched to the hammer.

Shortening the cones is tedious and needs to be done each time you need a new set. Just like if you shortened the hammer.

Either way you go, you need to fit the cones to the hammer.

Kevin
 
You can buy shorter nipples all mine wear slixshot though I don't think they are shorter but they are definitely made of quality stainless.
I was just looking in Track of the Wolf and it appears they sell nipples with different cone lengths. Maybe I’ll get one of my worn out nipples trimmed down to the right length, measure it, and see if they have anything close.
 
Don't screw with the nipples, but you can get after market ones if you want.
Adjust the hammer and if you screw up to much just check out the Pietta replacement parts kit. You get hammer,bolt hand, and springs for less than $50!
 
I would install Slixshot nipples first! These nipples may fix the problem. I agree that modification should be done to the cheapest part. I would also say modify the part easiest to replace. In your case, the cost is about the same and about as easy to replace. With the new nipples you may not need to do anything else.
 
Just a brain phart, maybe put a little "wart" of JB Weld on the bottom of the hammer cut in the frame. Then work down as required. Better yet, drill and tap and install a set screw.
 
All the nipples I have bought lately run a little longer than the originals. Both Slix-Shot and replacement stainless.

My hammers all rest on the nipple, which is what I prefer. I've never had mushrooming of the nipples. ?? You aren't dry firing are you? Or do you shoot like, really a lot? My pistols mostly get carried a lot, and not shot that often. Once sighted in, and the most accurate load found, I might only put a dozen or so rounds through a pistol per year. But, I've never seen really any mushrooming or even flattening. Not even on my 1860, which I did use to shot often, and ran the same nips for like 30 years. ?
 
All the nipples I have bought lately run a little longer than the originals. Both Slix-Shot and replacement stainless.

My hammers all rest on the nipple, which is what I prefer. I've never had mushrooming of the nipples. ?? You aren't dry firing are you? Or do you shoot like, really a lot? My pistols mostly get carried a lot, and not shot that often. Once sighted in, and the most accurate load found, I might only put a dozen or so rounds through a pistol per year. But, I've never seen really any mushrooming or even flattening. Not even on my 1860, which I did use to shot often, and ran the same nips for like 30 years. ?
No, I never dry fire my cap and ball revolvers.
 
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