1860 Army

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jgh4445

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Got the front sight put on my Uberti 1860 Army thanks to the piece of New Zealand dollar coin IFISHSUM sent to me. Took it out to the range today and it was dead on at 25 yds. Guessed right at the height and didn't even have to make an adjustment. ( I had figured that I needed a sight .090 higher than the original so I made it .100 just to be sure.) It worked. Spent a great afternoon shooting a really accurate 1860. Happy dance here and a great big THANKS to Ifishsum!
 
OK...well that didn't last too long. I took it out to shoot and after I changed cylinders I had NO front sight. Gone, vanished! Back at square one. Guess I didn't do too well with JB Weld. Anyone know where I can send this barrel to have another front sight put on that won't cost more than the revolver? I have a second original equip front sight that will drive right back into the keyway the first one came out of, but then I'm back to shooting a foot high since it is so short. I wonder can another piece of brass be soldered to the top of this second front sight to make it higher? What type of solder and how much heat wold it take? I've never soldered anything before but I'm getting desperate!
 
I don't think solder would hold.
If you can find something to make a new sight out of to fit the keyway like the old one instead of using JB weld, that would be a start. Otherwise, maybe have a dovetail cut?

I think Track of the Wolf has brass sheeting, but probably anything that could be worked down to the right width and height would work.
 
I don't think solder would hold.
If you can find something to make a new sight out of to fit the keyway like the old one instead of using JB weld, that would be a start. Otherwise, maybe have a dovetail cut?

I think Track of the Wolf has brass sheeting, but probably anything that could be worked down to the right width and height would work.
 
Jim, I still have another piece that I could send you to try again. Mine has held fine with a little JB weld but I carefully cleaned and degreased the slot first. It fit close enough for me that I probably could have staked it in (and I still may) but I wanted to be sure it would work first.

At any rate let me know if you'd like that other piece.
 
Yesterday I was just listening to a friend telling how he soldered the front sight on his rifle using solder from Brownells that melts at 461 F. He had a brass mandrel in the barrel,, sticking out the end, and heated the mandrel till the solder melted.
 
The JB should hold but as mentioned you need to clean out the woodruffe keyway slot VERY well. I'd even go so far as to scratch things up in the slot with a scriber or jeweler's file so the epoxy has something to hang onto.

Because it fits down into the slot I do believe that soft plumbing solder would do just fine. But if this is your first soldering job I would suggest that this is not a good place to start.
 
I thought I had cleaned it really well. Went so far as to use a tiny diamond bit with a ball on the end, in a dremel to "scratch up" the slot and the bottom of the sight. Cleaned with alcohol and thought I mixed the JB really thoroughly.
 
Two small tubes, one red one black. The red says "hardner" and the black says "steel". Directions say set up occurs in 4 to 6 hours with max strength in 24 I believe.
 
Sounds like the same stuff I used, equal parts resin and hardener. I sure hope mine stays, seems like it would have come out by now if it was going to. When it came out, did all of the JB weld come out with it or did some stay in the slot?

When I did mine, I put daubed a little extra on the sides to basically fill the slot, not just on the bottom of the sight. Sharpied it black and its barely noticeable. I have a photo, I will try to figure out how to post it.

I still have your address Jim, and I will get the other piece in the mail tomorrow for you.
 
Sounds like you used the good stuff. The quick set has a black tube and a yellow one and says JB quick on them. Its ok for some things but not nearly as strong as the slow set. I had a johnson outboard once that threw rod through the side of the block. I replaced the rod and used JB weld to glue the block pieces back together. I used that outboard for years like that and the guy i sold it to later ran it for many more years.
 
Do it permanently, get a small roll of Brownell's 'Force 44' low temp silver solder. ( the stuff that has the flux integral to it) You can work it easily with a propane torch and I assure you it WILL hold if you properly prepare the sight base.

I have used the stuff to resolder double ribs on an antique parker shotgun, replaced both modern and antique rifle sights and bases. JB has it's place, but in my opinion gunsmithing isn't one of them.........bedding material at best and even that can be done better with accra weld.

As an aside I have a friend that kept trying to JB a sight on a cut down Broomhandle Mauser, stuff would hold for a short period and then he'd be crawling around in the sand looking for the sight. I 'Force 44'd" the thing and he's been using it with no problem for the last three years.

By the way, the 'secret' to soldering is clean contact areas and the proper amount of heat...........dirty & it won't bond, too little heat and it will either not bond well or you'll have globs on your workpiece, too much and you'll likely not get it to work. Use just enough heat to get the solder to flow..........and really not much at all is required to have a really tough join. If you can very lightly tin the bonding surfaces.....you also will need some method of holding the two items in alignment, but you might have an easy go with a slotted base...........just don't use much solder................yeah, plumbers stuff will work but it lacks the tensile strength of the Brownell's product.............as I recall that solder is rated at close to 30M psi so it's pretty tough.
 
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