1863 Remington Pocket

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Just acquired an old brass frame Armi San Marco 1863 Remington pocket revolver from a friend of mine. It doesn't work well, but then I got it for only $15. When I pull the hammer back, the trigger doesn't engage, and the hammer simply snaps forward. I disassembled the innards completely, and it seems that there's a little nub on the hammer that connects to another part and catches. I don't know the names of the parts, so I can't really be more descriptive. What can I do to fix the problem? I've thought of just adding a bit of molten metal to the nub on the hammer, then filing it to shape. Anything better? I really don't want to try to order a new part, but if I have to I will, probably from VTI Gun Parts.

Anybody experienced this problem, or know how to solve it?
 
yes.usually,it's either the top of the trigger busted off,or the hammer notch is busted.try replaceing the trigger first,as it's the cheaper part.ASM parts might not be available,but Pietta parts can usually be used with minimal hand fitting.VTI is a good source of parts,and in a worst case scenario,I'll give you $30.00 for it,and you'll have doubled your money....
 
Took a look at the diagram on the VTI site. The trigger connects to a rocker thingy called the "bolt" which connects to the right side of the hammer. On my 1863, the nub on the hammer looks a bit worn, and so does the upper prong on the "bolt." My best guess is that both parts need replacing -$22 for the hammer and $12 for the bolt, and then it should be okay. Any cheaper way?
 
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The leg of the bolt that is activated by the hammer cam should be worn and beveled sharply.
Hammers rarely wear out especially on the 1863 Pocket Rems...I would guess you need a trigger as the sear(tip) is badly worn or broken...the broken trigger may have broken the hammer, it could happen I guess.
The bolt jus' unlocks and locks up the cylinder in battery.
The trigger sear and the last knotch in the hammer hold the hammer back at the fullcocked position, & that bolt leg sets the bolt into/out of the cylinder slots under pressure of the Trigger/Bolt spring.
 
Yeah,also called the 'cylinder stop' in some circles.the trigger/'bolt' spring is usually the culprit in that case.The hammer nub deal is called the 'cam' and while it could be the problem,I doubt it.If you're handy you could build it up,then re-profile it,or you could replace the hammer,which would eliminate that problem,as well as problems with the half and full cock notches on the hammer.There's a GREAT article on reworking the pocket pistol over on the SCORRS website.
 
BHP and SG are both on the right track. The hammer cam is unlikely to be the problem. I'd suspect the bolt itself, and the trigger as well. My advice would be to replace the bolt and trigger together and keep the hammer. That's the least expensive solution. If you just replace the trigger only, and the bolt is the problem you'll end up paying twice for shipping - better to replace the two most likely parts together and just pay one shipping fee.
 
As SG described, the "bolt" looks worn and the tip that engaged the hammer cam is beveled sharply. The trigger doesn't look worn, so is replacing it in addition to the bolt necessary?
 
As SG described, the "bolt" looks worn and the tip that engaged the hammer cam is beveled sharply. The trigger doesn't look worn, so is replacing it in addition to the bolt necessary?
I have no idea. I only suggested it because it would be cheaper to do it now with the bolt than have to order it separately and incur another set of shipping charges if it does turn out to be broken or out of spec later.
 
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