I recently got a 1903A3 and I purchased a new scant stock set(keeping original of course) from Boyds and I wanted some help on how I should finish the stock? I was thinking Gun Stock stain and then several coats of boiled linseed oil? Can I get some suggestions from others who have done similar?
1903A3 Scant stock finishing help
- Thread starter mookiie
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mtlucas0311
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BLO makes the stock look nice and is fine if you're only shooting on bluebird days where moisture protection isn't a concern. If you're planning on shooting matches, etc. I'd recommend Teak oil. It's easy to apply, can be rubbed into the wood for an original look or can easily be built up into a glossy finish. It provides excellent moisture protection. I've shot matches in fairly crappy weather and the water rolled right off.
Here's a pretty good article from the CMP:
http://thecmp.org/training-tech/armorers-corner/wood-cleaning-article/
Here's a pretty good article from the CMP:
http://thecmp.org/training-tech/armorers-corner/wood-cleaning-article/
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BLO works depending on what the wood is. If Boyds is using walnut, BLO will add a reddish tint (especially if you use the LinSpeed sold by Brownells). Birch will generally require a stain of some sort if you want your stock to resemble military issue. BLO applied to beech stocks or some walnut stocks that have strong yellow tints will generally not redden the stocks but simply darken them a bit. It will especially highlight the grain structure of beech.
It will darken the wood over time but is simple and easy to apply. Just be sure to apply in thin layers--rub it into the wood until you feel your fingers warm (using vinyl gloves as some BLO uses heavy metals as a drying agent), I use 0000 steel wool to work it in after letting the BLO soak in for a couple of minutes. Be sure to properly dispose of any BLO contaminated rags as they can spontaneously combust under the right circumstances.
Tung oil is another stock oil used for US military stocks particularly WWII vintage. If you want it to dry, then apply it in very thin layers in a similar fashion and allow time to dry. Once again, you can buy tung with drying agents.
Be sure to also oil the interior of the stock, screw holes, band inletting, etc. The military used to dunk the stocks in vats of linseed oil to saturate the stocks. The BLO or tung oil seals the stocks where it has been inletted which protects it from gun oils and other solvents applied to your metal.
Best to use water based stains if you are trying for a specific color rather than oil based stains--depending on the oil base, it may prevent additional layers of your BLO/tung topcoat from adhering properly.
If you are looking to artificially darken a light stock to resemble aging or some other darker wood, then you can find specific recipes on the net. At an extreme, you can even paint artificial grain on the wood but that requires a top cover.
Take your time, enjoy applying the oil, and avoid power tools because what wood you remove, you can't add back.
It will darken the wood over time but is simple and easy to apply. Just be sure to apply in thin layers--rub it into the wood until you feel your fingers warm (using vinyl gloves as some BLO uses heavy metals as a drying agent), I use 0000 steel wool to work it in after letting the BLO soak in for a couple of minutes. Be sure to properly dispose of any BLO contaminated rags as they can spontaneously combust under the right circumstances.
Tung oil is another stock oil used for US military stocks particularly WWII vintage. If you want it to dry, then apply it in very thin layers in a similar fashion and allow time to dry. Once again, you can buy tung with drying agents.
Be sure to also oil the interior of the stock, screw holes, band inletting, etc. The military used to dunk the stocks in vats of linseed oil to saturate the stocks. The BLO or tung oil seals the stocks where it has been inletted which protects it from gun oils and other solvents applied to your metal.
Best to use water based stains if you are trying for a specific color rather than oil based stains--depending on the oil base, it may prevent additional layers of your BLO/tung topcoat from adhering properly.
If you are looking to artificially darken a light stock to resemble aging or some other darker wood, then you can find specific recipes on the net. At an extreme, you can even paint artificial grain on the wood but that requires a top cover.
Take your time, enjoy applying the oil, and avoid power tools because what wood you remove, you can't add back.
USSR
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