1911 Botched Barrel Fitting, Salvageable?

[average_shooter]

I want to run this past the experts here to check if my idea for salvaging a botched barrel fitting will work.

Long story short, I have a Kart 6-inch NM barrel I mis-ordered years ago. I would like to fit it to a 5-inch slide. To do so will require turning the muzzle OD down from .580 to .574 to match the rest of the barrel diameter. If I do that, and fit an EGW .575 bushing, should I expect it to work or will the tolerances be too close and bind it up during cycling?

Background:
At the time I ordered it, I didn't realize that the NM barrels are flared at the muzzle and thought I could still fit it to a 5-inch slide. Thus, I started filing on the barrel and mostly fit the locking lugs to the slide before realizing that the barrel to bushing fit would be excessive.

At the moment I'm trying to figure out if a $20 bushing and some time will give me a usable barrel, or if I really did just make a $150 mistake all those years ago. This thing has been sitting in my spare parts bin for a good long while and I don't think I can really sell it or get any money out of it since I already filed away on it.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Jim Watson]

I don't know how much relief you would have to have.

But a Briley ball bushing requires none.
Turn the barrel to .574" straight and get a Briley bushing with a .575" ring.
My FLG has done them with a .0005" difference but Briley recommends a thou.
http://www.briley.com/p-52336-1911-auto-spherical-oversized-and-drop-in-bushings-and-rings.aspx

 

[Jim K]

All those match barrels are meant to be fitted - they are not "drop in." It sounds like you can probably salvage that barrel. You don't say if you plan to cut the barrel to fit the slide or if you will leave an inch sticking out, but (appearance aside) it probably doesn't matter. If you fit the bushing correctly to allow the barrel to drop, and if the fitting of the locking lugs, bottom foot, link and hood are OK. things should work out.

But take it very easy and confine your "filing and fitting" to the barrel and bushing; you don't want to get carried away and do something irreparable to the frame or slide.

Jim

 

[average_shooter]

Thanks for the replies, Jim(s).

Regarding the Briley Spherical Bushing, I have been looking into them. Part of the decision making process is the price difference ($60 for the Briley, $20 for the EGW). Also, I'm not personally familiar with the Briley and don't think I know anyone that has run one. If you have experience, I'm certainly all ears. I might go for the Briley just for a "sure thing" if reviews and research support such.

Jim K. Thanks again, I am familiar with the fitting process. I should have mentioned that after realizing my original mistake I did end up ordering a proper 5-inch Kart barrel and bushing and successfully fitted them to the project pistol. I am confident I can fit this barrel if I can get the bushing situation straightened out. I also am currently planning to leave the barrel at 6 inches, just turning the .580 flare down to .574 to make the profile straight.

If you fit the bushing correctly to allow the barrel to drop...

I guess the more succinct way of phrasing the question might be, what tolerance does there need to be between barrel and bushing to ensure proper cycling?

For example, do I need a .005 difference between barrel OD and bushing during cycling? I can turn the barrel/bushing mating surface to .574 (to mate with a .575 bushing), then turn the rest of the barrel down to .569-.570 to make the clearance for cycling ...

I might be trying to overthink or over-engineer the problem.

 

[Jim K]

I can't give you an exact figure, too many variables. But remember the barrel tilts to unlock and the bushing has to have enough room at the bottom to allow that to happen. If you want a good fit, it is not a matter of taking off x thousandths, but of cut and try fitting until things work. The same is true in fitting the bottom lug and the locking lugs. The only problem I see is if you have already taken too much off the barrel somewhere; that cannot be put back and I don't recommend trying to use weld on a barrel.

Jim

 

[BBBBill]

EGW will work with you on that. They have produced special order bushings for the Colt 9mm/38S "skinny" barrels. Call them up and talk to George or one of the other guys and explain what you're dealing with. Were it me I would probably turn the barrel down to ~.570"-.572" starting about 3/8" behind the bearing area for the bushing. It will work fine that way and, no, it will not be too thin for safety.
Some smiths don't step their match barrels and get them to work just fine with no reliability or accuracy problems.

 

[Drail]

+1 on BBBBill's post.