1911 FLGR too GI rod swap.

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DasFriek

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I sent my 1911 out for refinishing after a bevel/melt job and i replaced the flgr plug with a solid end plug for a standard guide rod as i didn't know there was a difference. So i had the old plug with a hole in the end finished and the new plug thats solid at the end finished also.
And then i ordered a Baer or Brown standard rod to match the new plug with no hole in the end as it was beveled also so it was a big part of the "Look" i was trying to achieve.

Ive never owned a standard rod, They have all been FLGR's and im not sure if there is anything i need to look and watch for when i do the swap except for looking for spring binding?

Is the best way to disassemble the gun to push the plug down and turn the barrel bushing to release its pressure and then remove the slide stop?
 
What are the benefits of the FLGR other than the obvious reduction in slide wear?
 
A FLGR won't really have any effect upon slide wear. It does seem to add a little to the life to the recoil spring since it guides it in a straight line. It also adds a little mass to the front of the gun (not much). But the original GI rod and plug does the required job very well. Simple is good.
 
FLGR in a 1911 is kind of a solution in search of a problem. It supposedly eliminates the possibility of spring binding -- which is a problem I've never heard anybody report.

Others will claim that it can increase shot consistency, and therefore accuracy. I've never encountered data to support these claims, and my own experience with FLGR vs standard GI recoil system would indicate there is no difference. Even the claim that an FLGR increases spring life would be very hard to support, as we all know that there are much greater factors that influence spring wear.

The only perceived benefit that I can remotely imagine is that an FLGR does add a very slight amount of weight to the muzzle -- thereby decreasing muzzle jump (even if the amount of the decrease is immeasurable). Personally, I find that a FLGR only adds unnecessary steps to the field strip process.

FLGR in a 1911 is a highly disputed topic, and you'll find a plethora of forum debate all over the internet if you look for it. Bottom line you will determine is - to each his own.
 
Im changing to the GI style shorter rod just because the spring plug looks better being a solid end instead of a big hole in the end.
Being its a gun with a carry bevel/melt job the FLGR plug with a whole doesn't fit the look i was going for and couldn't be beveled.

Ive read enough threads around here that i knew it didn't matter which i used function wise as they both work the same, I just wasn't sure if the GI was taken down the same way.
So in reality i like the GI setup as its a better looking exterior on the muzzle end.
GI rod and plug:
muzzle.jpg


FLGR and plug:
219a7b7e.jpg
 
I have to ask ... in this day and age where it's all about the bottom line, why do any 1911 manufactures sell pistols with FLGRs? Is it cheaper to make FLGRs and the accompanying spring plug compared to a GI guide rod with a traditional spring plug. In terms of raw materials, I'm sure that the former is more expensive. Machining costs would be greater too right? So why the FLGR? Is it simply a case of public perception and marketing?
 
1858 said:
I have to ask ... in this day and age where it's all about the bottom line, why do any 1911 manufactures sell pistols with FLGRs?
I remember reading a while back an article where Ed Brown said that the only reason they used a FLGR on their guns was because of customer demand...they wanted to pay more for a part that added nothing to the function of the gun

The only real function of the FLGR is in 1911s with a belled/flared barrel and no barrel bushing
 
DasFriek said:
So in reality i like the GI setup as its a better looking exterior on the muzzle end.

That is an outstanding blending of the muzzle into the barrel bushing, they hid the downward angle of the bore line very nicely.
 
FLGRs will keep you from press-cocking the pistol, which is one of the 1911's traditional virtues.

I recommend the Cylinder & Slide plug with the USGI detent in it. Modern (nonUSGI pattern) plugs lack this detent and can be easily lost or launched across the room.
 
The only real function of the FLGR is in 1911s with a belled/flared barrel and no barrel bushing
Not really. They use a different spring plug that's retained by the slide.

The first time I changed the recoil spring in my 4" Kimber, I had a heck of a time getting it back together. So I put a short guide rod in it. Still has the open spring plug though. It doesnt bother me very much since I rarely see that end of the pistol...
 
Yup, I switched to a GI rod/open end reverse plug with a bull bbl. years ago. It's actually easier to take down than a bushing bbl. Just remove the slide stop and run the slide off the frame and remove the spring and rod from the rear. I just love it when I hear somebody saying they don't like bull bbls. because they require a tool and more effort to strip. Then I show them how I do it. And I'll never understand all of the guys on here saying they don't like the way an open end plug "looks". Worrying about how a firearm "looks" should be way down the list. It's a firearm, not a 57 Chevy.
 
That is an outstanding blending of the muzzle into the barrel bushing, they hid the downward angle of the bore line very nicely.
I agree, But sadly thats not my gun. Just a pic i found on Google to show the differences as i figured not everyone knew how the plugs were different.
 
And I'll never understand all of the guys on here saying they don't like the way an open end plug "looks". Worrying about how a firearm "looks" should be way down the list. It's a firearm, not a 57 Chevy.
I just did a complete ground up rebuild with only the bare frame/slide and barrel was used.
I replaced everything with high end machined parts with no MIM items and hand fit them all.
Then i did a carry bevel/melt job prior to shipping it out to the refinisher.
To not worry about the looks with all that work would be dumb not too.
A $30 new guide rod and plug is a drop in the bucket compared to what i spent on the gun as a whole.
 
9mmepiphany said:
I remember reading a while back an article where Ed Brown said that the only reason they used a FLGR on their guns was because of customer demand...they wanted to pay more for a part that added nothing to the function of the gun

There's a perception that FLGRs cost more but the difference is so small that it just isn't worth considering. For example, an Ed Brown GI guide rod and spring plug are only $2.81 cheaper than an Ed Brown stainless steel FLGR and spring plug. So basically, whichever you choose, price really shouldn't enter into the decision.

Ed Brown one piece guide rod $15.79
Ed Brown stainless steel recoil spring plug $9.39

Ed Brown stainless steel FLGR with spring plug $27.99


Drail said:
And I'll never understand all of the guys on here saying they don't like the way an open end plug "looks". Worrying about how a firearm "looks" should be way down the list. It's a firearm, not a 57 Chevy.

Here's a photo of the business end of my Kimber and Ed Brown SFC. I suppose the Ed Brown muzzle is more aesthetically pleasing but the FLGR and spring plug on the Kimber aren't exactly an eye sore.

eb_kimber.jpg
 
When doing a carry bevel/melt job it does make a larger visual difference as the FLGR plug cant be beveled. It stands out like a sore thumb with all the smooth lines and its sharp thin lines.

Here is a pic of my gun prior to sending it to the refinisher with the beveling almost finished.
My GI style plug hadn't arrived yet and was sent to the refinisher 2 days later.
I will have the gun on the 24th as long as Fedex is on time, And ill show pics of it finished and the difference.

DSC00310.jpg
 
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