I need a new FLGR on my 1911!

[Springfield_1911SS]

I have a Springfield 1911 Loaded(Full size 5"). It as a full length guide rod(FLGR) and it is a 2 piece that requires a allen wrench for disassembly. And after a while of shooting it starts to come loose, so after 100 rnds or so then I have to tighten it. I still want a FLGR but I want one that does not require a wrench or any other tool. Has anybody found a FLGR that they like for a springfield 1911? I would like it to be matte black or stainless.

 

[wally]

The FLGR that Armscor uses on the new RIA TActical are one piece and will allow the standard push in the plug and rotate the bushing, then carefully remove the plug and release spring pressure method if you grind a couple of mm off the end of it.

They set it up so you remove the slide and then pop the rod up onto the barrel links and then rotate the bushing -- probably to help minimize the spring plug launching at ones face. I ground all mine, works great, but unless you have really tough skin I find the flat of a screwdriver is very helpful to push the plug while rotating the bushing.

Contact API in Pahrump NV, They'd probably sell you one reasonably. I've also see the sets with rod, spring and plug set up this way at gun shows but they were "no name" brand.

--wally.

 

[longeyes]

I've gone "G.I." with my 1911s. One of the virtues of the 1911 is easy disassembly and re-assembly. Why lose that? What's the advantage of the FLGR, anyway?

 

[wally]

I agree, no advantage to FLGR, but I don't feel strongly enough about it one way or the other to change the way they came except for the two-piece which is to my mind a major liability for reliability because of the possibility of shooting loose and binding/damaging the recoil spring.

--wally.

 

[MICHAEL T]

Browning knew best Go to orginal design Its a proven one. This other barf

 

[Black Majik]

No you don't, you need a GI short rod and plug.

 

[Springfield_1911SS]

why wouldn't I want a FLGR?

What makes a GI rod and plug better?

The gun came with a FLGR, but its a 2 piece, and I was thinking I would use another FLGR because thats what the factory originally had it in(i know the original 1911s had GI rods and plugs)

I will say this: i like the way 1911s look when the slide is back and there is no guide rod

 

[VARifleman]

Cylinder and slide makes a good one piece one. With a bushing, you turn it so that the knob that locks it into the frame is higher, then take out the plug and spring, then take off the slide. Or you could rack the slide back, stick a paper clip in the hole in the rod, and take off the bushing, then slide.

 

[Old Fuff]

The FLGR is a gadget, and not particularly useful. It's only (questionable) advantage is that it adds more weight toward the muzzle. In exchange disassembly and reassembly is more difficult, and in an emergency you can't clear a round, or chamber one, by pushing the bottom/front of the slide against a solid object, such as a table.

Why is it in your Springfield? Well because it's cool, and without one the gun isn't... well .... loaded (with gadgets, not cartridges). Today's buyers go for the cool "tactical" look, even if the pistol isn't functional. It's sort of like cars. They take the basic model, load on accessories (some useful, others not) and charge you twice as much. A FLGR = fancy wheel rims.

 

[VARifleman]

Old Fluff, I find that using the sights on a belt is a more reliable way of doing that as you'll always have a belt, but a table...not so much. Disassembly isn't bad, although I do like that I can rack the slide halfway back and remove the bushing with my fingers with the GI plug. The spring can kink and cause problems as noted by one of the Les Baer owners on 1911 forum. You shouldn't lose reliablity with a FLGR versus a GI plug, nor really gain it, it's more of a whether you like it or not and how you like the gun to balance.

Edit: here's the thread: http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=167901

 

[Old Fuff]

Yes, you can rack it on your belt, but be careful which way the muzzle is pointed...

I used a table as an example, but of course there are other possibilities - all of which become lost if you have a FLGR.

As for the Browning recoil spring system. The back of the spring is supported by the recoil spring guide, which indeed guides it while the spring is being compressed. The front is enclosed by the recoil spring plug. As the slide travels backward the plug captures the spring's outside diameter, and the guide supports it by it's inside diameter. Just where does all of this kinking occur? While it is true that about 7/8" of spring is unsupported in the middle when the slide is in battery, this is hardly enought room for the spring to bow, and when the pistol is fired that distance is closed in the fraction of a second. If the spring kinked, bent or bowed to any extent the slide would stop and tie up the gun.

 

[JoeHatley]

I still want a FLGR but I want one that does not require a wrench or any other tool.

Just Loc-Tite your 2 piece rod together, and adjust your take down steps to accomodate it.

Joe

 

[Bula]

+1 on the lock tite-get the red one. Pull the slide stop, remove slide carefully, carefully slide out guide rod with spring, then remove barrel and bushing. That's been a lot easier than disassembly of the GR to get the bushing off.

 

[Boats]

On my favorite 1911A1, which happens to be a personally customized Springer Champion, refinished by Robar, I not only ditched the guide rod for a short GI guide rod and a reverse plug, I ditched the barrel bushing too by getting a factory cone barrel fitted to the slide. Take down is about as easy as a CZ now, just remove the slide stop and grasp the recoil spring so it doesn't bow as I pull the slide and recoil assemby off the receiver. Easy as pie and still as accurate as I can shoot it.

FLGRs are an answer to a question nobody asked.

 

[Springfield_1911SS]

side note, does anyone know how many pounds the factory recoil spring is in a full size springfield loaded?

 

[doubleg]

The stock recoil spring for all full size 1911's is 18#'s. But different models like different things, sounds like a question for springfield.

 

[yomama]

Actually, stock recoil spring weight for a full size 1911 should be 16#.

 

[Springfield_1911SS]

i checked my owners manual, its a 16#, what would be the reason for/consequences of putting a 16.5# spring, would i need to change anything else

the reason I ask is I found a deal on a GI style rod and plug, recoil buffer, and a 16.5# spring, all ed brown as a package deal

 

[yomama]

For just shooting the buffer would be fine, but not necessary. I sure wouldn't use it on my carry gun. Heavier springs are usually for heavier loads. If it's a good enough deal I'd get it and toss the buffer. 16.5lb spring probably isn't going to do anything noticeable. You can usually pick up a guide rod and plug on e-bay for a couple of bucks or post a WTB ad here or on the 1911 forum. I've seen alot of guys just give it to the person. Then just get a Wolff 16 pound spring for 3-4 bucks and you're set. If I had an extra rod and plug I'd give it to you.

 

[Magnumite]

Adding a little fuel to the fire...

Most modern semi autos have flgr;

On some 1911's it will cycle smoother by hand, so I am sure it is smoother when dynamic (cycling from firing);

It puts weight up front for faster times between shots;

A one piece flgr for a 5" 1911 makes takedown no more difficult;

John Browning did not get the 1911 pistol totally right back then because we have made improvements to it (listen to the oooo's and aahhhh's from the heresay in that);

NO, I don't put them in all my 1911's. I like both recoil setups, depends on the application for me.

 

[MICHAEL T]

Your right He didn't get it perfect back then Thats why we have the 1911A1 it is perfect. Never saw a A2 or 3,4,5,6,7, Unlike my S&W model 19 -10
He did get the recoil set up perfect Just say no to FLGR and buffers

 

[Springfield_1911SS]

just because I get the spring in the package deal does not mean I have to use it, i was just wondering if it would do anything

 

[yomama]

Spring is fine. Buffer needs to go. Get the package and toss the buffer. Just my opinion though, and you know what those are worth.

 

[Magnumite]

I thought there would be responses on that post. This subject has been beat real good.

 

[VARifleman]

Yes, you can rack it on your belt, but be careful which way the muzzle is pointed...

I used a table as an example, but of course there are other possibilities - all of which become lost if you have a FLGR.

As for the Browning recoil spring system. The back of the spring is supported by the recoil spring guide, which indeed guides it while the spring is being compressed. The front is enclosed by the recoil spring plug. As the slide travels backward the plug captures the spring's outside diameter, and the guide supports it by it's inside diameter. Just where does all of this kinking occur? While it is true that about 7/8" of spring is unsupported in the middle when the slide is in battery, this is hardly enought room for the spring to bow, and when the pistol is fired that distance is closed in the fraction of a second. If the spring kinked, bent or bowed to any extent the slide would stop and tie up the gun.

It is enough to bow, and if you follow the link you'll see what I'm talking about. It couldn't have worn the bottom of the dustcover if it didn't bow at all...as for racking on the belt, it's safer than some suggest which is to put the muzzle of the slide on your boot, well, that sounds good in theory, but it's just not as fast or safe (as the tendancy to cross the foot in that situation is present) as racking it on the belt with the sights.

See picture, muzzle of gun can't cover the leg when racking it on the belt.