1911 grip screwdriver

[MoreIsLess]

I am thinking of getting some new grips for my Springfield Government Model 1911 Stainless. Is there a special kind of screwdriver or tool to use to remove them. I've heard it said that you can ruin the screws if not using the correct tool.

 

[JamieC]

Depends on which screw type it is. Straight, allen head, torx. Standard are usually straight blade type. A proper fit screwdriver is one that is NOT wider than the screw head, thick enough to just fill the slot of the screw.

 

[MIL-DOT]

I've changed 1911 grips numerous times,using a small flat-head that is (as mentioned above) no wider than the screw head, and haven't screwed anything up.
Just take it slow and be careful, and you shouldn't have any problems.

 

[Old Fuff]

USGI stock screws were slotted so that the front of the magazine floor plate could be used as "the" tool to remove or install the screws. Most other screws are conventionally slotted. What you should do is examine the screws that you have or plan to use, and then obtain the screw driver or other bit that matches the screws.

One source for both screwdrivers and screws is www.brownells.com

 

[MoreIsLess]

Does anyone know what kind of screws (torx, hex, etc.) are used on the Springfield Loaded Target and what size

 

[TfflHndn]

The size should be standard for grip screws. You can get a variety of finishes and screw slot/hole types. I like the torx or Allen heads, since they are harder to bugger up. I also got a set of hollow-ground bits so as to avoid messing up the slotted screws. Contrasting screws (stainless on a blued gun, for instance) adds to the appearance, IMO. Try some different styles - they aren't too expensive and it's not a bad thing to have spares around.

 

[BlindJustice]

uhm, O.P. haven't you removed the grips for a good cleaning?

A good set of hollow ground screwdrivers from Brownells
they'll serve you well with all your firearms, nothing like
a buggered screw on a S&W Revolver, side plate.

Hollow Ground flat blades are FLAT unlike most regular flat types

My S&W uses an Allenhead - Colt has slot screws They've both
had the grip screw bushing re-staked - don't tighten em down hard
I think it was the gunsmith but can't prove it.

R-
.

 

[RA40]

Some OCD types like to have the slot on the heads line up a particular way. Nobody sees them except you or if you take pics to show your new toy off. That said I like the non directional look using a hex or torx type screw head. These are almost no-brianers to snug up and not worry about a slipping screwdriver blade. A good set of screwdrivers is a necessity to have.

I was disappointed in a Wheeler 43 piece set. None IMO fit the slots on the S&W revolvers I had. They came close and are usable with due care. High torque isn't needed.

A snap of my SA GI with a few contrasting additions: stainless magwell, polished hex head grip screws and aluminum long trigger:

 

[AZAndy]

I have an inexpensive screwdriver set (interchangeable bits) from DAC Gunmaster that has served me very well. Amazon has 'em for cheap. Includes both thin and thick-edged bits, the latter of which is perfect for 1911 grip screws.

Bought it because I had to replace the side-panel screws on my 642 after chewing them up with the wrong screwdriver... live and learn!

 

[Tirod]

Gun screwdrivers are ground so that the sides are parallel where they meet the end. Unlike most cheaper workman screwdrivers which are taper ground to the tip. Screws are slotted with parallel sides, which is why the typical tool box or household screwdriver damages them - they wedge the sides open wider at the tip, creating a ridge, and because they often don't fully seat or fill the gap between the sides of the slot, twist out when the friction of the threads is higher than the friction holding it in the slot.

Given a choice between a screwdriver out of the kitchen drawer or the magazine, I'd use the magazine. It's a better fit and it's actually meant to be used that way.

 

[Drail]

Almost any good screwdriver may be used on the screws - they should not be torqued enough to require a hollow ground screwdriver - just make sure the blade is not too wide so that it can chew on the holes of the grip. On the bushings - if you try to remove them with just a screwdriver odds are very high your will tear out the slots if they are staked or Loc tited. A bushing driver is needed for the bushings. Don't try it with a screwdriver - hollow ground or not. If you're going to work on guns you really should invest in some of the high quality drivers from Brownells and be willing to take the time to custom grind the bit for the screw. When working on gun screws "close" ain't good enough and no matter how many bits you have - they won't fit every screw you run into.

 

[MoreIsLess]

I found out my Springfield 1911 has Torx screws (T15). Is there even such a thing as hollow ground Torx drivers or is that even necessary with Torx screws.

 

[rcmodel]

No such thing.

Just get one the right size and have at it.

rc

 

[Master Blaster]

The only issue is that 1911's use a grip screw bushing that is threaded and screws into the frame. The grip screw then goes through the grip and into the threaded interior of the bushing. Some Bushings are staked others use locktite to keep the bushing in the frame. If the bushing is not staked or properly threaded into the frame then the Bushing may come out with the screw and you have to separate the two and replace the bushing into the frame. There is a special tool for the two slots on the rim of the bushing. As stated above too big of a screwdriver can damage the grips and the bushings.

Google 1911 grips screw bushings and read about them.

here is a picture: http://www.brownells.com/handgun-pa...hings/1911-grip-screw-bushings-prod41875.aspx

 

[Urban_Redneck]

I keep forgetting to order plain slotted grip screws for my Springfield, torx and hex screws always send me on a 30 minute scavenger hunt.

 

[Jed Carter]

Hollow ground drivers are for Torx screws with a center tamper resistance pin.
They will work with regular Torx as well.