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Thanks. If it WERE a 3-point jam issue only, what would the fix be?
1911 gurus: Kimber Super Carry Pro FTF first round
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Here's a crappy video of the jam occurring.. I can't figure out how to get HQ video to upload from my phone yet, so... sorry.
http://youtu.be/9vgOUL7E0Lw
http://youtu.be/lkyYnKReMqk
http://youtu.be/9vgOUL7E0Lw
http://youtu.be/lkyYnKReMqk
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
If you can push it to battery that easily, it's not a 3-Point. It's the extractor. Remove the extractor and chamber a round the way you did in the videos. Unless I miss my bet, it'll go to battery smoothly.
http://shopwilsoncombat.com/Flat-Wire-Recoil-Spring-Kit-4Compact-45-ACP/productinfo/651
Maybe this & a couple known good mags might help
Maybe this & a couple known good mags might help
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Well tuner is right as always ... I removed the extractor and it chambered first round fine from a couple of mags that failed before. I tried to adjust tension but I don't know what I'm doing. What's the best way to not screw it up? I only shot a few mags and first founds still feel a bit ka-chunky, and I did have one last round ftf as noted above (bump on the back of the slide chambered it. ) so I assume I didn't get it right. Also I got BTF a few times.
KevinB
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1911Tuner said:
Is that my gun Tuner? If so, I'm kinda honored to be in the 1911Tuner file of examples. You were right about that gun by the way.
1911Tuner
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Kevin...I think it is.
1K...go to post #25 and see if your extractor looks like that one.
1K...go to post #25 and see if your extractor looks like that one.
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Okay, I will. Thanks! How much deflection is it SUPPOSED to have? Should I be able to see the inside edge/wall of the extractor behind the hook? Or should it be flush with the slide?
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
About half what you see in that picture.
If it was flush, it couldn't put tension on the case rim.
The trick is using the right tools to remove material from the tensioning wall. I use a rail file with two safe sides...and ya gotta keep it square and true. Then, you'll need to shorten the claw...wall to tip...to about .036 inch...and break the sharp corners on the claw and at the bottom of the tensioning wall.
It can be a little tricky.
It may be better to order a Wilson Heavy Duty extractor and make use of the front pad's slight oversize to set the extractor's location relative to the breechface centerline.
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So you wouldn't bend it at all, right?
1911Tuner
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If it holds a cartridge, the tension is probably okay.
But, when the deflection is good, the pistol will run with quite a bit more extractor tension than most people realize...which makes for clean, consistent ejection.
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Yeah it holds an empty case and won't let go if shaken violently. A loaded round it holds and you have to shake it pretty hard to get it to fall out.
I agree with most here on the extractor. I would also suggest you upgrade with Wolff Xtra power springs. I ran a Kimber 4" (CDP Pro) for years, it was always reliable after break in, but I noticed me ejection patterns really varied with certain ammo. The Wolffs cleaned all that up, Kimber notoriously under springs their 4" guns.
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Thanks
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Tuner, I shot it again today and snapped some pics. May or may not help. I had one FTF or FTFC or FTRTB on last round in mag. Check mate extended 8-round hybrid lips with dimple followers. No issues feeding first round from slide stop.
Based on your pic in post 25, It SEEMS TO ME that the extractor deflection is too great.
Will a wilson be tensioned properly out of the box?
It ejects straight up and back most of the time. Didn't get BTF today but several times the other day.
Maybe/hopefully you can see something useful in these pics.
Based on your pic in post 25, It SEEMS TO ME that the extractor deflection is too great.
Will a wilson be tensioned properly out of the box?
It ejects straight up and back most of the time. Didn't get BTF today but several times the other day.
Maybe/hopefully you can see something useful in these pics.
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
And there it is.
Way YONDER too much extractor in the breechface area.
Way YONDER too much extractor in the breechface area.
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So... is there any circumstance in which you would attempt to bend/re-tension the extractor, or is the file the only Tuner®-approved method?
Any feedback on the Wilson? is it likely to be GTG out of the box? Or will the aforementioned tweaking with a file be needed in that case also?
Thanks for your patience and expertise, as always!
Any feedback on the Wilson? is it likely to be GTG out of the box? Or will the aforementioned tweaking with a file be needed in that case also?
Thanks for your patience and expertise, as always!
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
Less tension won't likely solve your problem, and it could bring on another one in the form of failure to extract and/or hinky ejection.
The only alternative is to put a drop of weld on the front pad and file it to provide the correct amount of the tensioning wall in the breechface.
The Wilson Heavy Duty has an oversized front pad that allows you to locate the claw relative to the breechface centerline...in case the extractor channel is at the root of the problem instead of the extractor itself.
Understanding the correct way to file to a radius is a must. If you don't know how, drop by a local community college and have the machine shop instructor demonstrate it.
IMO, the HD extractor is a little better extractor than the Wilson Bulletproof and it's about a buck cheaper from Brownells.
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so either way I need to file. I'm screwed.
thanks
thanks
1911Tuner
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Well...Filing to a radius isn't hard. It's just hard to accurately convey in words. Much better if somebody demonstrates it.
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What are your thoughts on the Weigand gauge/adjusting tool?
http://youtu.be/3nnqKKWk2ig
Any reason I shouldn't just try this?
http://youtu.be/9o-XoJVNAo8
http://youtu.be/3nnqKKWk2ig
Any reason I shouldn't just try this?
http://youtu.be/9o-XoJVNAo8
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
I've never used one.
If the deflection is correct, the pistol will operate with quite a bit more extractor tension than most of the experts recommend.
If the deflection is correct, the pistol will operate with quite a bit more extractor tension than most of the experts recommend.
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Very cool. Thanks.
1911Tuner
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The dimensions in that drawing accommodate a condition of excessive deflection...or at least try to allow for it. Sometimes it works. Sometimes not.
If the deflection is correct, the heavy radius and bevel at G and D
are unnecessary and if you're not careful, you can extend D so far into the wall that the extractor drops the case when the barrel drops.
Get the claw depth and deflection right and you need to do little more than break the corners.
Reference the picture in #25. The modifications in the drawing had been done to this one in the attempt to get it to run. It didn't work.
Luckily, whoever tried it didn't go so far that it required starting over with a new extractor, and the fix took all of about 10 minutes, including disasembly and reassembly.
If the deflection is correct, the heavy radius and bevel at G and D
are unnecessary and if you're not careful, you can extend D so far into the wall that the extractor drops the case when the barrel drops.
Get the claw depth and deflection right and you need to do little more than break the corners.
Reference the picture in #25. The modifications in the drawing had been done to this one in the attempt to get it to run. It didn't work.
Luckily, whoever tried it didn't go so far that it required starting over with a new extractor, and the fix took all of about 10 minutes, including disasembly and reassembly.
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