1911 hammer bite, and other 1911 questions

[Cemetery21]

Last mags I bought were Sig stainless, about $20 with a bumper. I had Colt mags that ran fine, but I didn't want to drill/tap them for bumpers (and I don't trust glue on bumpers).
The Sigs run fine, but I've never had a mag issue except an old, old Chip McCormick that split at the top rear and wouldn't drop free anymore.
I have nothing against full length guide rods but I change them to standard because I'm just used to the way I take down a 1911 without full length guide rods.

 

[American_Fusilier]

I just don’t understand why fellas buy those cheap 1911 pistols when there are good ones available for very reasonable prices.

Remington R-1 GI are 80 series btw.
I had to do a lot of work on mine BUT it shoots very well .

Springfield GI models are 70 series and a great place to start a build.

Personally, the reason I want a cheap one is two fold: I'm not a "1911 guy" and don't really care about the name on the slide. Second, it's going to be a shooter, I am too poor to afford a good American made 1911, I'd never spend more than $1k for any gun, and probably not more than $500 for a pistol. You can get excellent stuff for cheaper than those prices that are just as reliable and accurate as the mega expensive stuff. To me, a gun is a tool, and I don't want to be worried about scratching or marring the finish, and in this case I just want a 1911 because. But that is just me and my opinion. I have no issues with those who disagree with me, or are serious collectors, etc.

But personally I'd never buy a Remington pistol, and I wouldn't buy a Colt for that matter either. If you are super into Remington or Colt pistols, more power to you!

I have a quite limited budget, and I wish I could find the Springfield Defender for around $450, but I can't find an in stock one for less than $500. I'd also like the Ruger SR 1911 fs, but I'm definitely not paying $700+ for one. I wish I had that kind of money to blow on guns, but I just don't

I seriously don't mean to be a jerk or anything to anybody! I am very thankful for all of your replies!

 

[Skylerbone]

The 1911 is infinitely customizable to suit your purpose or tastes. This was my first, a quasi-tu-tone S&W. Parts swapped: new plunger tube/spring/detents, C&S hammer, sear, disco, Ed Brown thumb safety, Greider Precision slide stop, Colt mainspring, Colt sear spring, Kart bushing, Storm Lake barrel, GI guide rod, EGW magazine release all fitted by Rob Schauland of Alchemy Custom (same builder of the above pictured Anomoly bob hammer).

Any amount you can conceive of throwing at a 1911 is possible. While I enjoy my customized (not Custom) pistols I’ve learned that buying what you want out of the gate is often the cheaper option.


Factory condition with Sarge’s stocks. Note the FLGR up front.


After alterations.


A few of the removed OEM parts.


And standard GI rod.

 

[Bartojc]

If I were buying another 1911 today with value being the priority, my choice would be the Springfield RO Elite.

This is my only 1911. I like it a lot, and after a two years of ownership I am closing in on 5000 rounds. Shoots great, and I cannot remember any failures.

I was also looking at Ruger and RIA.

-jeff

 

[JTQ]

Personally, the reason I want a cheap one is two fold: I'm not a "1911 guy" and don't really care about the name on the slide. Second, it's going to be a shooter, I am too poor to afford a good American made 1911, I'd never spend more than $1k for any gun, and probably not more than $500 for a pistol. You can get excellent stuff for cheaper than those prices that are just as reliable and accurate as the mega expensive stuff. To me, a gun is a tool, and I don't want to be worried about scratching or marring the finish, and in this case I just want a 1911 because. But that is just me and my opinion. I have no issues with those who disagree with me, or are serious collectors, etc.

I'm not here to disagree with you, but rather improve your understanding. Folks today have a $500 price point stuck in their head, because that is generally what your average Glock costs. The reason Glock's cost $500 is because they are made out of polymer. Most 1911 are made out of steel. A steel gun will cost more than a polymer gun.

If your 1911 costs less than $1,000, there is reason it costs less than that. It could be they are using cheap labor. It could be cheap steel. It could be cheap parts. It could be all of the above.

I'm not trying to dissuade you from your gun of choice, but the reason most 1911's cost more than your target price is not because of the name on the slide, but rather the parts and the way they are assembled.

You may not need, or want the more expensive gun, and in that case, your choice may be excellent for you, but don't think you're getting the same level of 1911 for less simply because it doesn't have the designer name on the slide.

 

[czhen]

Paraphrasing a bad habit I couldn't live without both.

If I have to buy another I might try one with internal extractor ala S&W.

 

[Steve in Allentown]

I'll probably just bob the hammer spur a tad if it ends up being a problem. You guys sure that won't cause any light primer strikes or other issues?

It will not cause any functioning issues.

Also, are full length guide rods for the recoul spring a thing in 1911s?

They are not necessary and add complexity to field stripping the pistol.

Do you need bumpers?

You do not need bumpers unless you plan on dropping partially or fully loaded mags on concrete or other hard surfaces.

Also, I've been eyeing the Kimber mags, as they're only about $15. Some of those Wilson Combat mags are like $50! A huge benefit for getting a 1911 I thought was going to be cheaper mags!

Thunder Mountain has pretty good prices for mags. Wilson, McCormick, and Tripp are the big three names and the most expensive mags out there. Much of the cost is due to the name and marketing efforts. But much of it is also due to their reputation for reliability. Everyone has their own favorite brand of magazine. Personally, I prefer the Check-Mate 8 round extended tube mags (cm45-8-s-h-ext). Do not buy any Triple K mags. Other folks swear by Metalform or MecGar. All you can do is find your own way through the myriad choices through experience. Buy one of whichever brand tickles your fancy and see if it performs to your expectation. If it does, get a couple more of the same. If it doesn't, buy one of a different brand and try it.

One recommendation is to only load 7 rounds into a flush fit magazine even if it will hold 8. If you want 8 round magazines, get the ones that have been designed from the ground up to hold 8. You can recognize them by the fact that their tubes will extend slightly below the frame when fully seated.

 

[12Bravo20]

Personally, the reason I want a cheap one is two fold: I'm not a "1911 guy" and don't really care about the name on the slide. Second, it's going to be a shooter, I am too poor to afford a good American made 1911, I'd never spend more than $1k for any gun, and probably not more than $500 for a pistol. You can get excellent stuff for cheaper than those prices that are just as reliable and accurate as the mega expensive stuff. To me, a gun is a tool, and I don't want to be worried about scratching or marring the finish, and in this case I just want a 1911 because. But that is just me and my opinion. I have no issues with those who disagree with me, or are serious collectors, etc.

But personally I'd never buy a Remington pistol, and I wouldn't buy a Colt for that matter either. If you are super into Remington or Colt pistols, more power to you!

I have a quite limited budget, and I wish I could find the Springfield Defender for around $450, but I can't find an in stock one for less than $500. I'd also like the Ruger SR 1911 fs, but I'm definitely not paying $700+ for one. I wish I had that kind of money to blow on guns, but I just don't

I seriously don't mean to be a jerk or anything to anybody! I am very thankful for all of your replies!

Buy a Rock Island with confidence if that is what you want. I do suggest stepping up a little to get one of the Tac models since it will have better sights and usually comes with a beavertail safety. The cost difference between that and their GI model is not that much and will be cheaper than trying to change them after you have the pistol. Rock Island makes dependable pistols and have great customer service if it should be needed.

You will have people look down on the RIA 1911 pistols but don't let it bother you. I laugh at people that give me trouble about my RIA pistols and just smile as I keep shooting and hitting the targets.

 

[herrwalther]

I'm sorry, I 'm still not sure what part you are talking about.

As far as 1911 grip safeties go, there is the GI grip safety and beavertail grip safeties as you can see in this article ( https://hipowersandhandguns.com/Best 1911 grip safety.htm ), and there are also a couple of Colt specific designs, the "Rat-tail" (which was a modified GI grip safety that allowed the use of the Commander hammer) and the "Ducktail" or "Duckbill" grip safety that was basically a downward sloped beavertail.

Helpful link thank you. What I am referring to is the GI style grip safety. The shortened length lends itself more to hammer bite than the beaver tail kind. I have a GI style and a beaver tail on 2 separate 1911s. Both have spurred hammers so I have not had any issues with hammer bite.

Also, are full length guide rods for the recoul spring a thing in 1911s?

There are 2 main types of recoil rod for 1911s: GI and full length. The full length come in one and 2 piece varieties. There are pros and cons to both. Like most things it is best to shoot both (and take them apart. As it changes the field strip slightly) and see what you like.

Also, also, I have been browsing 1911 mags, and some say "ready for the bumper of your choice", what does that mean? Do you need bumpers?

Bumpers are little plastic pieces at the bottom of 1911 floor plates. Personally I prefer magazines with bumpers. They are easier on your hand to load during mag changes and don't hit the ground as hard if you let it free fall to the ground.

 

[Howland937]

Probably made by CheckMate


Probably also made by CheckMate

Granted, it's been about 15 years since I had a Kimber 1911 in .45. So maybe they're better than I remember.

Bumpers are little plastic pieces at the bottom of 1911 floor plates. Personally I prefer magazines with bumpers. They are easier on your hand to load during mag changes and don't hit the ground as hard if you let it free fall to the ground

.. bumpers are also especially helpful if your 1911 is equipped with a beveled mag well. My carry gun has one. It's loaded with a plain mag, no bumper...but the spare(s) I carry have bumpers.

 

[Skylerbone]

Snapped a few pictures of various 1911 magazines to show some of the differences.


L to R: Wilson 47D, Wilson ETM, ACT, Colt.


L to R: Wilson, Wilson, ACT, Colt, Kimber, Colt.


Closer look at base pads. Plastic bumper, steel flush, composite enhanced, and standard steel.


View of followers.

 

[JFrank]

Personally, the reason I want a cheap one is two fold: I'm not a "1911 guy" and don't really care about the name on the slide. Second, it's going to be a shooter, I am too poor to afford a good American made 1911, I'd never spend more than $1k for any gun, and probably not more than $500 for a pistol. You can get excellent stuff for cheaper than those prices that are just as reliable and accurate as the mega expensive stuff. To me, a gun is a tool, and I don't want to be worried about scratching or marring the finish, and in this case I just want a 1911 because. But that is just me and my opinion. I have no issues with those who disagree with me, or are serious collectors, etc.

But personally I'd never buy a Remington pistol, and I wouldn't buy a Colt for that matter either. If you are super into Remington or Colt pistols, more power to you!

I have a quite limited budget, and I wish I could find the Springfield Defender for around $450, but I can't find an in stock one for less than $500. I'd also like the Ruger SR 1911 fs, but I'm definitely not paying $700+ for one. I wish I had that kind of money to blow on guns, but I just don't

I seriously don't mean to be a jerk or anything to anybody! I am very thankful for all of your replies!

I understand what your saying, I’ve had similar views even owned a budget 1911 at one time and what I found when I wanted to upgrade a couple parts was that most needed extra time custom fitted rather then drop in. I had no one to point out these problems/issues in advance.
J

 

[Howland937]

To me, a gun is a tool, and I don't want to be worried about scratching or marring the finish, and in this case I just want a 1911 because. But that is just me and my opinion. I have no issues with those who disagree with me, or are serious collectors, etc.

I'm of the same exact opinion, but I'm 180 degrees in the opposite direction. I don't own anything that cost more than $1000. I've gone beyond that price point after making changes to get a gun to where I wanted it to be though. In the last 2 months I've bought 4 additional guns for a total of $730 and 3 are center-fire rifles. I've got more than $730 in each of my 1911's and I shoot them more than I shoot anything else. I carry my favorite one daily and have north of $1200 in it with upgrades.

I have more money tied up in tools at work than the average person paid for their house and I look at those tools the same way. I get the best I can afford to be able to the the job at hand. If it's something I may only use once or twice a year, I won't pay the premium price, but if I plan on it being the first thing I grab almost daily...I buy the best I can knowing it's gonna get beat up, but in theory it's gonna work well and last a long time.

 

[Garandimal]

Hammer Bite - on a "GI" 1911... is Nature's way of tellin' you to lay off the soda and potato chips, and get more PT.






GR

 

[Howland937]

Hammer Bite - on a "GI" 1911... is Nature's way of tellin' you to lay off the soda and potato chips, and get more PT.


GR

Aww c'mon...those are muscular hands

 

[TRX]

I'm a big dude, 6'2" and 300lbs, I have big meaty hands, I'm planning on getting hammer bite, but hoping not too.

I got bitten the first time I shot a 1911. I have no idea how I accomplished that... I've never been bitten since.

I view the beavertail as "a solution in a search of a problem" and avoid it. Though it took a while to find a stainless GI-style grip safety for my stainless longslide, and I finally managed to find a stainless spur hammer to match. I find I have better control with the spur than with a ring hammer, and I'd feel like a right prat if I had an ND if it got away from me.

 

[Kevin Rohrer]

Never had a problem w/ hammer-bite, nor do I know anyone who has had that problem.

Buy American, which is not RIA or Tisa. You get what you pay for.

 

[Jim Watson]

I got bitten the first time I shot a 1911. I have no idea how I accomplished that... I've never been bitten since.

I view the beavertail as "a solution in a search of a problem" and avoid it. Though it took a while to find a stainless GI-style grip safety for my stainless longslide, and I finally managed to find a stainless spur hammer to match. I find I have better control with the spur than with a ring hammer, and I'd feel like a right prat if I had an ND if it got away from me.

Control what?
Are you operating a longslide in Condition 2?

 

[Skylerbone]

Hammer Bite - on a "GI" 1911... is Nature's way of tellin' you to lay off the soda and potato chips, and get more PT.

Is that really the only explanation? Could you give me some workout tips? I’m not bone skinny but I’d love to resolve the hammer bite issue. Is there a hand diet perhaps, maybe shrink them down to 1 XL.

 

[CapnMac]

Also, are full length guide rods for the recoul spring a thing in 1911s?

They are and are not.
Some people swear by them, others swear at them.
Used to be a standard feature of "race" guns; those optimized for speed shooting sports.
You need a recoil plug cap with a hole in it, preferably from the same MFGR as the FLR.
Full length rods come in two styles: One piece and two-piece. The former require you to disassemble by pulling back the slide and dismounting the slide stop pin (as you can't spin the bushing out of the way). The latter can be unscrewed using a drift.
I've never found one to be any improvement on any 1911 I tried them upon. But, in all fairness, I was also not worrying about beating another competitor by a hundredth of a second, either.
Your Mileage May Vary

quote]Also, also, I have been browsing 1911 mags, and some say "ready for the bumper of your choice", what does that mean? Do you need bumpers?[/QUOTE]
Bumpers are hugely used by the competition crowd, originally meant to protect the magazine base plate, but later found to be a handy way to shave thousandths or hundredths off score times. So, some competitors want slim pads, some want double-height, some want triple. Almost none seem to want factory pads, go figure.
The factory folk figured that out, and made the baseplates blank.

I remember back in the dark ages (ok, middle 80s) when you had to drill your own mag base plates and usually also add epoxy glue, too. Life its own self. Those Pachmyr or Wilson mags with the pads were like, twenty bucks! (Price of four GI mags at the time.) You had to be rich to afford factory pads []

 

[tlynch]

... make sure you get the 8 rounders with the extended tubes, as their non-extended tube 8 rounders are really hard to seat with the slide forward.

JTQ:

How do you make sure of the tube length on Checkmate mags? Are they different model numbers? If so, which model is the long tube version?

Thanks!

 

[Steve in Allentown]

How do you make sure of the tube length on Checkmate mags?

This is an extended tube CMI magazine: https://shop.1911parts.com/Check-Mate-Match-Extended-SS-Full-Size-1911-Magazine-8-Round-cm45-8-s-h-ext.htm

The manufacturer's SKU is CM45-8-S-H-EXT

CM = Checkmate
45 = .45 caliber
8 = magazine capacity
S = stainless
H = hybrid feed lips
EXT = extended tube

The picture below shows several .45 magazines. From left to right: flush fit, CMI 8 round extended tube, Tripp 8 round extended tube, CMI 10 round extended tube.



The information at this link may be of some interest: https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/1911-why-is-it-so-hard-to-seat-the-magazine-and-how-do-i-fix-it.870520/

 

[tlynch]

This is an extended tube CMI magazine: https://shop.1911parts.com/Check-Mate-Match-Extended-SS-Full-Size-1911-Magazine-8-Round-cm45-8-s-h-ext.htm

The manufacturer's SKU is CM45-8-S-H-EXT

CM = Checkmate
45 = .45 caliber
8 = magazine capacity
S = stainless
H = hybrid feed lips
EXT = extended tube

The picture below shows several .45 magazines. From left to right: flush fit, CMI 8 round extended tube, Tripp 8 round extended tube, CMI 10 round extended tube.

View attachment 959137

The information at this link may be of some interest: https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/1911-why-is-it-so-hard-to-seat-the-magazine-and-how-do-i-fix-it.870520/

Thanks! That's a big help.

On a side note, I wish I could get extended tube mags for my Colt 1903. The mags fit flush, and more than once I have failed to seat them securely.

 

[JTQ]

As Steve mentioned, look for the "EXT" to designate the extended tube.

Another source for CheckMate mags, Top Gun Supply

Extended tube 8 rounders (out of stock though) https://www.topgunsupply.com/check-...-full-size-1911-magazine-cm45-8-s-rb-ext.html

 

[Vern Humphrey]

Conventional wisdom is that a "high grip" is better for shooting -- that guarantees you'll get hammer bite.

Strip the gun, turn the hammer upside down, clamp it in a padded vise, and file the corner at the rear of the spur. Reassemble the gun and see if you can force it to bite the web of you hand. If so, it needs a few more strokes of the file.