JIGS and stones
Assuming (yeah, I know) you start with factory unmolested hammers and sears, you can do it with a sear jig, stones and good literature and specs. I recommend a hammer jig also. A jeweler's loupe and check pins so you can see the engagement surfaces interface would help. All this would cost you less than $125. Shipping your first pistol, paying the trigger work and return shipping would be this much.
The sear jig I use is the one formally produced by Wilson (not of Wilson Combat fame). I forget who makes it now, but Ed Brown sells a similar tool.
If you can, you can also get a separate hammer jig, or follow the instructions on the Wilson type jig and you can do the hammer hook height. I use a separate hammer jig for the hammers on my action jobs. I use a sound method of getting the hammer hook engagement surfaces smooth and square in addition to my desired hook height.
Brownell's and Marvel make a combination sear/hammer jig also. These jigs are relatively inexpensive, going for about $125 new. These are not the bigger Power type jigs. The total cost for both of the separate hammer and sear jigs will run you about $75 new. Used, there are bargains, if undamaged.
You'll need stones, good ones. I use Norton's India 6"x3/4" square for rough cutting and then the white Arkansas stones for final cutting. If you want a really slick surface, also get a black Arkansas stone (to die for!).
For the trigger track AND the hammer hooks, the Brownell's ceramic 1911 trigger track stone is a good one to use. That stone is the best I have used on the hammer hook surfaces. But to be honest, those hook surfaces are tricky, so if you do this yourself, just touch them at first and concentrate on the sear surfaces. All my hammer hook stones generally don't get used for anything else, since a really sharp corner is needed to do the hook surfaces well.
Bill Wilson's book and the Kuhnhausen manuals are a must. Wilson will get you started and Kuhnhausen will get you through the "it's too short when it is how long" times.