1911 Maintenence

[jahwarrior]

i've had a Taurus PT1911 for a couple of years now, and i'm approaching the 4,000 round mark...i think. honestly, i've lost track, so i'm just guesstimating.

so far, the only thing i've done to it is routine cleaning and lubing. i've been contemplating other things, like changing the ambi safety to a standard, and exchanging the full length guide rod for a standard one, but these aren't necessary at the moment. i'd like to know, though, what sort of things are necessary to maintain a 1911? for example:

1. when should i change the recoil spring?
2. when should i change the firing pin?
3. when should i change the extractor?

what else should i be looking for, and when?

 

[tuj]

1. When it gets around 1/2" shorter than a new spring.
2. Probably won't need to.
3. Probably won't need to.

 

[JRadice45]

The recoil spring I would go no more than 1500 to 1700 rounds maximum. It is a cheap part to replace so why risk not replacing it and damaging your pistol?

The firing pin I would leave alone unless it is malfunctioning, not straight etc. I would however change the firing pin spring.

The extractor is in the same category as the firing pin. if it is working and within adjustment - no need to change. If it is visibly damaged or out of tune either replace or re-adjust.

Does your routine cleaning & lubing include cleaning out the firing pin and extractor tunnels? If not I would look into doing that and when you re-assemble DO NOT put oil anywhere near the firing pin, firing pin spring, extractor, or their tunnels.

Also at 4000 rounds if you have not done so I would recommend tearing the guts out of the frame and cleaning everything.

 

[G27RR]

This covers it well...

http://www.10-8performance.com/pages/1911-User's-Guide.html

 

[MattTheHat]

1. when should i change the recoil spring?
2. when should i change the firing pin?
3. when should i change the extractor?

1. Using target ammo, mine seem to last about 2000 rounds.
2. Immediately after it breaks.
3. Immediately after it breaks.

I've yet to wear out a firing pin or extractor. I'd assume the extractor would be more likely to go first, but that's just a guess.

-Matt

 

[rcmodel]

I broke one 1911 extractor in 1960 something shooting steel-case WWII GI ammo.

I have never broke a firing pin, or seen one break I can remember while I was gunsmithing for 5th. Inf AMU pistol team.
And we shot a lot of rounds through a lot of 1911 match guns in a years time.

I have seen firing pin springs go weak, or completely stack up in the FP channel from countless hours of dry-fire practice. But the FP spring doesn't get nearly as much of a beating when actually shooting the gun because the primer limits it's over-compression.

So replace the recoil & FP springs every so often.
But Fuggedabout the extractor & firing pin replacement, unless you are one of the very few people who ever breaks one.

Look at it this way.
If the original parts have not broken yet?
They might be better parts then the new ones you replace them with that haven't been use tested yet.

rc

 

[SSN Vet]

DO NOT put oil anywhere near the firing pin, firing pin spring, extractor, or their tunnels.

Please elaborate as to why?

 

[jahwarrior]

DO NOT put oil anywhere near the firing pin, firing pin spring, extractor, or their tunnels.
Please elaborate as to why?

that i get. any kind of oil would attract lint and dirt, and eventually gunk up the works. i've been told this by everyone i know.

 

[rcmodel]

Well, I got to disagree with that right there.

You DO need a light film of oil to prevent rust.

I have seen more of that from running a dry gun then the other way around.

Do it the old GI way.
Clean it, oil it, then wipe off the excess.
Just leave enough oil film for rust protection.

rc

 

[JRadice45]

I have witnessed on two different 1911's problems relating to lube and or overlube of the firing pin and extractor tunnels.

The first was so much crud being built up in the extractor tunnel that when hand cycling (clearing) the pistol after a run the live round was left in the chamber. RSO who usually checks the chamber visually and tactially with his pinky neglected the pinky test. slide was dropped, hammer was dropped and boom - round into the concrete floor.

Keep in mind that when firing the gun extracted and ejected the empties just fine. When the extractor was pulled a plug of crap came along with it. i cleaned the extractor and the tunnel, no other adjustments were made and whadda ya know - the gun would extract a live rd by hand cycling the slide.

The second seperate instance was a firing pin that had so much crap in the tunnel that the firing pin would not return. A good cleaning remedied that fellows problem. his firing pin was not bent, nor was his spring. the firign pin hole looked ok as did the firing pin stop.

 

[Skylerbone]

The point is to prevent the firing pin from becoming jammed in the forward position, initiating slam fire. No grease, some CLP or a light bit of oil on the extractor will be fine.