sibedog
Member
Getting into the 1911. Maybe I would like to try a rebuild of one. What would be a good gun to start with and where is the best place to get the parts?
1911 rebuild how to sart and what to start with
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WoodchuckAssassin
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I'm not sure where you should start, but it seems like a gunsmith might have a handfull of parts they'd be willing to part with to get you started.
sibedog
Member
That's just it So many different parts out there. What's a good read on the gun? I'm sure there are manuals on a how to. What make to start with?
jfrey
Member
There are several shop manuals and DVDs out there. The best advise I've seen is to get a fairly inexpensive gun and build it up from there. Wilson, Ed Brown, Les Baer, Fusion, EGW and others all offer good parts. Just depends on the way you want to go and how deep your pockets are.
JTQ
Member
Just so you understand going in, the 1911 is not like the Glock or AR, parts are not going to just snap in like a Lego set. You are also going to need some tools to get it done.
Here is a decent article, "How-I-did-it-1911". You may want to start with the "Lesson's Learned" section.
http://how-i-did-it.org/1911-project/
Nearly everybody in "1911dom" has a copy of the Kuhnhausen books, there is a Vol 1 and Vol 2.
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...hnhausen-the-colt-45-automatic-prod13805.aspx
I'd get a Rock Island Armory GI 1911 and you can find all the parts and tools you'll need at Brownell's.
Here is a decent article, "How-I-did-it-1911". You may want to start with the "Lesson's Learned" section.
http://how-i-did-it.org/1911-project/
Nearly everybody in "1911dom" has a copy of the Kuhnhausen books, there is a Vol 1 and Vol 2.
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...hnhausen-the-colt-45-automatic-prod13805.aspx
I'd get a Rock Island Armory GI 1911 and you can find all the parts and tools you'll need at Brownell's.
Are you talking about "customizing" or a "rebuild"?
If you are "rebuilding" one, you are repairing & replacing worn out parts to bring it back to spec.
I think you want to customize.
I also second the recommendation for parts at Brownells as well as at least the 1st volume of Jerry Kuhnhausen's Colt .45 Automatic: A Shop Manual - the best shop manual for the M1911 pistol.
If you are "rebuilding" one, you are repairing & replacing worn out parts to bring it back to spec.
I think you want to customize.
I also second the recommendation for parts at Brownells as well as at least the 1st volume of Jerry Kuhnhausen's Colt .45 Automatic: A Shop Manual - the best shop manual for the M1911 pistol.
gpb
Member
1911 rebuild how to start and what to start with
Start with the book "The Colt .45 Automatic A Shop Manual" by Jerry Kuhnhausen.
Start with the book "The Colt .45 Automatic A Shop Manual" by Jerry Kuhnhausen.
bannockburn
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I built an M1911 from the frame up and can definitely second the notion of getting a detailed how-to book, shop manual, or DVD before you start anything. Some parts from the name brand manufacturers (Colt, Wilson, Ed Brown, Kings, etc.), are drop-in ready while others are not and require careful fitting and expertise to make it all work right. Brownells also puts out a catalog for the M1911 and is well worth having so you can see and compare parts and tools from many different companies.
Ramone
Member
I've found the Wilson Combat 'Bullet Proof' parts to be 'drop-in' in almost all instances.
Me, I?
what ever make of 1911 I started with, I'd want it to be a Stainless Frame and Slide- if I needed to match the frame/slide to the part (instead of fitting the part to the frame), or scratching the frame when fitting, there's no worry about touching up the finish.
Me, I?
what ever make of 1911 I started with, I'd want it to be a Stainless Frame and Slide- if I needed to match the frame/slide to the part (instead of fitting the part to the frame), or scratching the frame when fitting, there's no worry about touching up the finish.
Vern Humphrey
Member
Amen. And once you have that manual the next step is to make a list of all the tools you'll need -- for example, staking tools for the front sight and plunger tube.
And here's where you'll run into the hard truth -- the cost of quality parts and the tools you need far exceed the cost of buying a quality gun off the shelf.
I know -- I caught hold of that tar baby myself.
I have rebuilt, I cannot tell you how many 1911 pistols over many years.
One ALWAYS starts with the springs, they are the first things to go south on any gun.
I have customized a number of 1911s over the yars as well.
This can involve anything from simple sight upgrades to full blown parts upgrades and metal enhancements.
If you are wanting to customize an existing handgun, your first action is to determine exactly what you want to do and in what order of priority you would like to perform the work.
One ALWAYS starts with the springs, they are the first things to go south on any gun.
I have customized a number of 1911s over the yars as well.
This can involve anything from simple sight upgrades to full blown parts upgrades and metal enhancements.
If you are wanting to customize an existing handgun, your first action is to determine exactly what you want to do and in what order of priority you would like to perform the work.
RustyShackelford
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Brownells....
For any serious gun owner, sworn LE officer or professional gunsmith, www.Brownells.com is your friend.
I've been buying products & gun care items from them since the mid 1990s.
They even print a special catalog just for 1911 parts & services.
Other good places to check include; www.gunvideo.com www.midwayusa.com www.deltapress.com www.paladin-press.com www.grafs.com .
You can buy DVDs or books to assist you. The www.1911forum.com might be a aid as well.
I do not own any 1911 series pistols at this time. I considered doing a 1911a1 build in the early 1990s but I've put it off. Maybe later on.
I'm a bit ticked that S-A(Smith and Alexander) quit making the 1911 series ambi-mag release feature.
I'm left handed & would like the controls to be ambi as much as possible.
Cabot Arms markets a great custom left handed 1911a1 .45acp but they are a bit out of my budget....
Rusty S
For any serious gun owner, sworn LE officer or professional gunsmith, www.Brownells.com is your friend.
I've been buying products & gun care items from them since the mid 1990s.
They even print a special catalog just for 1911 parts & services.
Other good places to check include; www.gunvideo.com www.midwayusa.com www.deltapress.com www.paladin-press.com www.grafs.com .
You can buy DVDs or books to assist you. The www.1911forum.com might be a aid as well.
I do not own any 1911 series pistols at this time. I considered doing a 1911a1 build in the early 1990s but I've put it off. Maybe later on.
I'm a bit ticked that S-A(Smith and Alexander) quit making the 1911 series ambi-mag release feature.
I'm left handed & would like the controls to be ambi as much as possible.
Cabot Arms markets a great custom left handed 1911a1 .45acp but they are a bit out of my budget....
Rusty S
Nom de Forum
Member
Actually you always start with the frame. Pay particular attention to the pin holes. If they are oversized from wear, don't bother rebuilding, buy a new frame or gun.
MDI_Weapon
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Another vote for Kuhnhausen's shop manuals.
Sell? I thought people were only allowed to buy 1911s and then more 1911s...and then parts and tools for 1911s. The idea of selling one boggles the mind. Okay - did sell one once but it was an imported disaster...actually, I traded it for another 1911 so that doesn't really count.
A GI model wouldn't be a bad place to start if you want to really build one up. On the other hand, a slightly enhanced model that already has a beavertail grip safety would save you some elbow grease and probably end up being less expensive after you figure in for the jig, new grip safety, etc. Also, shaving down the frame area and fitting a grip safety likely isn't where you want to start your road to building a 1911 as that can be a bit tricky if you don't have a really good understanding of how the grip safety interacts with the other parts of the pistol.
Buying one of the less expensive 1911s, shooting it, cleaning it, detail stripping it and reassembling it until you understand how everything about it works (if you don't already) would probably save you quite a few headaches down the road.
Series 70 is a few parts easier than a series 80 and a little easier to work on when it comes to getting a nice clean trigger pull.
Two piece guide rods are an ongoing source of annoyance.
Sharp 20LPI checkering anywhere on a 1911 will eat up your clothing if you carry it concealed. That is not a reason not to add sharp checkering but a reason to buy more t-shirts.
Short triggers are made for elves....and possibly hobbits.
Sell? I thought people were only allowed to buy 1911s and then more 1911s...and then parts and tools for 1911s. The idea of selling one boggles the mind. Okay - did sell one once but it was an imported disaster...actually, I traded it for another 1911 so that doesn't really count.
A GI model wouldn't be a bad place to start if you want to really build one up. On the other hand, a slightly enhanced model that already has a beavertail grip safety would save you some elbow grease and probably end up being less expensive after you figure in for the jig, new grip safety, etc. Also, shaving down the frame area and fitting a grip safety likely isn't where you want to start your road to building a 1911 as that can be a bit tricky if you don't have a really good understanding of how the grip safety interacts with the other parts of the pistol.
Buying one of the less expensive 1911s, shooting it, cleaning it, detail stripping it and reassembling it until you understand how everything about it works (if you don't already) would probably save you quite a few headaches down the road.
Series 70 is a few parts easier than a series 80 and a little easier to work on when it comes to getting a nice clean trigger pull.
Two piece guide rods are an ongoing source of annoyance.
Sharp 20LPI checkering anywhere on a 1911 will eat up your clothing if you carry it concealed. That is not a reason not to add sharp checkering but a reason to buy more t-shirts.
Short triggers are made for elves....and possibly hobbits.
JTQ
Member
You have to remember, this thread was started by a guy with very little knowledge about 1911's. Mistakes certainly will be made along the way. Chances are good whatever pistol he starts "gunsmithing" on, its' resale value "wouldn't be worth anything" anyway. It's better to start with a pistol that has a value closer to nothing, so you can limit your losses.
TRX
Member
I started off planning to build a Parkerized 1911. Then I got a smoking deal on a new Foster stainless frame, and another on a used but perfect stainless slide, so it turned into an all-stainless build.
Even though I got great deals on the frame and slide, I'm still over $600 into the project and I don't even have all the internals yet. As "discretionary income" permits, I'm purchasing good-quality parts to complete the build. By the time I have everything and the rest of the tools (I went for "gunsmith fit" on most parts) I'll probably have $900-$1000 in it... and that's not "best quality/most expensive" bits, just "good value for the money" bits.
However, I'm building it as a hobby project, not because I need another 1911. If I just needed a gun, I'd buy one already made and save some money.
Even though I got great deals on the frame and slide, I'm still over $600 into the project and I don't even have all the internals yet. As "discretionary income" permits, I'm purchasing good-quality parts to complete the build. By the time I have everything and the rest of the tools (I went for "gunsmith fit" on most parts) I'll probably have $900-$1000 in it... and that's not "best quality/most expensive" bits, just "good value for the money" bits.
However, I'm building it as a hobby project, not because I need another 1911. If I just needed a gun, I'd buy one already made and save some money.
TRX I'm going to suggest some internal parts for that Stainless build that I found uniformly excellent in quality and not too terrible expensive.
These are strictly recoil spring components and assume you do not wish to use a full length guide rod assembly,
1. Wilson solid stainless guide rod
2. ISMI Chrome Silicone recoil spring, 16 pound factory weight
3. Ed Brown stainless recoil spring plug
I recently paired these components up to a stainless slide assembly I had put together for my old Match gun.
The slide is an old Caspian and the rest of the upper components are Ed Brown. HTH
These are strictly recoil spring components and assume you do not wish to use a full length guide rod assembly,
1. Wilson solid stainless guide rod
2. ISMI Chrome Silicone recoil spring, 16 pound factory weight
3. Ed Brown stainless recoil spring plug
I recently paired these components up to a stainless slide assembly I had put together for my old Match gun.
The slide is an old Caspian and the rest of the upper components are Ed Brown. HTH
MDI_Weapon
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TRX - your last post helps a lot in terms of part suggestions.
Kart barrel and bushing
EGW oversized firing pin stop (prevents extractor clocking)
EGW oversized extended ejector - for tuning spent case ejection and it has the bonus of an almost seamless appearance with the back of the slide once properly fitted (not entirely sure they make this in anything other than blued steel).
Ed Brown tactical thumb safety or tactical ambi thumb safety
Ed Brown Memory Groove Grip safety (I really like how this grip safety feels when paired up with the Brown tactical thumb safety -- however, this is very subjective as it depends heavily on hand size, how meaty your hands are, etc.)
EGW Heavy Duty Slide Stop
If your frame does not have the slight relief where the front strap meets the trigger guard, I would add it as it makes quite an improvement in terms if how low you can get the pistol in your hand when using a high grip.
Any idea of your intended use for this pistol when it is finished? My apologies if you stated that previously and I missed it but I forgot my glasses today and the font on my phone is apparently locked in on about size 3 font. Anyway, there are a lot of parts I would consider putting on a match pistol or range plinker that I wouldn't use on a carry gun and the same is true the other way around.
Kart barrel and bushing
EGW oversized firing pin stop (prevents extractor clocking)
EGW oversized extended ejector - for tuning spent case ejection and it has the bonus of an almost seamless appearance with the back of the slide once properly fitted (not entirely sure they make this in anything other than blued steel).
Ed Brown tactical thumb safety or tactical ambi thumb safety
Ed Brown Memory Groove Grip safety (I really like how this grip safety feels when paired up with the Brown tactical thumb safety -- however, this is very subjective as it depends heavily on hand size, how meaty your hands are, etc.)
EGW Heavy Duty Slide Stop
If your frame does not have the slight relief where the front strap meets the trigger guard, I would add it as it makes quite an improvement in terms if how low you can get the pistol in your hand when using a high grip.
Any idea of your intended use for this pistol when it is finished? My apologies if you stated that previously and I missed it but I forgot my glasses today and the font on my phone is apparently locked in on about size 3 font. Anyway, there are a lot of parts I would consider putting on a match pistol or range plinker that I wouldn't use on a carry gun and the same is true the other way around.
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LKLive13
Member
I bought a used Springfield 1911 GI and put all Wilson Combat internals into it. I know, its kind of like putting a 392 Hemi into a ricer but the GI fires like my wife's Kimber custom now and I'm only into it for a little over $600 with the parts. I just wanted to find something to tinker with and see how my "gunsmithing" skills were.
Nickb45
Member
The Springfield GI's are great pistols to start will, as well as the Springfield Mil-specs. I was planning on doing a commander build (4.25 barrel) but came across a Ruger CMD. I put a few new parts on, did some filing and wound up with a really nice carry pistol for around $1000.
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