1911 Slide won't come off during disassembly
- Thread starter remingtonfoxx
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Confederate
Member
Can you feel where the slide is being impeded? If you move it back and forth you should be able to feel whether it's on the right or left part of the frame, then fore or aft. At this point you don't have much to lose by removing the guide and spring, if you can. I can't imagine what else would be holding it.
HeavyDuty
Member
I'll bet a donut the link pin is loose and has drifted sideways. Can you see the link move when you try and remove the slide?
berkbw
Member
Without an exact picture of where things stop moving, it is a tad hard to find what's wrong.
Here's a way to win or lose a donut.
Remove bbl bushing and recoil spring. Is the guide rod easy to pull/push? Hopefully, it is, otherwise the flange [or buffer] is hammered.
Remove the slide stop pin. You should be able to slide the bbl forward quite a bit - easily. If not, time to buy him a donut. The link pin has most likely moved.
In any case, I would have it sent back to Nevada.
b-
Here's a way to win or lose a donut.
Remove bbl bushing and recoil spring. Is the guide rod easy to pull/push? Hopefully, it is, otherwise the flange [or buffer] is hammered.
Remove the slide stop pin. You should be able to slide the bbl forward quite a bit - easily. If not, time to buy him a donut. The link pin has most likely moved.
In any case, I would have it sent back to Nevada.
b-
I just had a similiar problem and fixed it...
I don't know if you had any luck yet, but I just baught an EMP 40S&W. I shot about 75 rounds, disassembled it and cleaned, put it back together, and then shot another ~125 rounds. When I got home and went to clean it I couldn't get the slide to come off. Upon removing the slide stop I could only get it to move ~.25" forward. I had to remove the firing pin to get the slide to come off. What happened to me was the ejector add begun to work itself up off of the frame. I tried to remove it, with the intent to clean and add some lock-tite and tap it back in, but couldn't get it out—so I just tapped it back in with a plastic mallet. The firing pin stop may have been a part of the problem from the get-go for me, it was definately making contact with the ejector after it had backed out. I carefully did some light grinding and polishing with a dremel tool to round the edge of the firing pin stop and the edge of the ejector where the interference/contact had been.
HTH—Lonnie M.
see photos:
I don't know if you had any luck yet, but I just baught an EMP 40S&W. I shot about 75 rounds, disassembled it and cleaned, put it back together, and then shot another ~125 rounds. When I got home and went to clean it I couldn't get the slide to come off. Upon removing the slide stop I could only get it to move ~.25" forward. I had to remove the firing pin to get the slide to come off. What happened to me was the ejector add begun to work itself up off of the frame. I tried to remove it, with the intent to clean and add some lock-tite and tap it back in, but couldn't get it out—so I just tapped it back in with a plastic mallet. The firing pin stop may have been a part of the problem from the get-go for me, it was definately making contact with the ejector after it had backed out. I carefully did some light grinding and polishing with a dremel tool to round the edge of the firing pin stop and the edge of the ejector where the interference/contact had been.
HTH—Lonnie M.
see photos:
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M203Sniper
member
I don't care who you are THAT was funny! Calhoun you owe me a keyboard!
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
In the never-ending quest for match-grade accuracy from a 400-dollar pistol...they've left the lower barrel lug without sufficient clearance with its recess in the frame.
Remove the slidestop and push the slide as far forward as it will go. Use a bent paper clip to lift the barrel up into the slide. If there isn't enough clearance between the barrel hood and the slide to use the clip, flip the pistol upside down. The barrel has to be in the in-battery position. It will come off now.
Look at the lower barrel lug. There will be two marks or scratches on either side. There may be a little galling if you tried to force it with the barrel down on the frame bed. Check the recess for burrs and dress them with a small file.
Use a smooth mill file, or a bastard-cut file gently if a smooth mill file isn't available...(Lowe's...6-inch mill file. 5 bucks)...to make a little clearance. Take equal amounts off each side. It shouldn't need more than a thousandth or two per side.
Be careful not to let the corner of the file cut into the fillet where the sides of the lug join the barrel. This isn't where you want a sharp corner.
Check the clearance as you go by sliding the barrel in and out of the frame. When it clears...take one more light stroke per side. That shouls do it.
Cheers
Remove the slidestop and push the slide as far forward as it will go. Use a bent paper clip to lift the barrel up into the slide. If there isn't enough clearance between the barrel hood and the slide to use the clip, flip the pistol upside down. The barrel has to be in the in-battery position. It will come off now.
Look at the lower barrel lug. There will be two marks or scratches on either side. There may be a little galling if you tried to force it with the barrel down on the frame bed. Check the recess for burrs and dress them with a small file.
Use a smooth mill file, or a bastard-cut file gently if a smooth mill file isn't available...(Lowe's...6-inch mill file. 5 bucks)...to make a little clearance. Take equal amounts off each side. It shouldn't need more than a thousandth or two per side.
Be careful not to let the corner of the file cut into the fillet where the sides of the lug join the barrel. This isn't where you want a sharp corner.
Check the clearance as you go by sliding the barrel in and out of the frame. When it clears...take one more light stroke per side. That shouls do it.
Cheers
14er
Member
RIA Compact Tactical Slide will not come off frame
1911 Tuner
I have the same problem with my RIA compact tactical and so far I have not had one problem with this pistol having approx. 500 rounds through it. I went to dissasemble it, removed the slide stop and the slide would not move forward more than 1/4". The slide does move backward just fine. I have tried your suggestions to remingtonfoxx with no luck, do you have any other suggestions?
I appreciate any ideas on this.
1911 Tuner
I have the same problem with my RIA compact tactical and so far I have not had one problem with this pistol having approx. 500 rounds through it. I went to dissasemble it, removed the slide stop and the slide would not move forward more than 1/4". The slide does move backward just fine. I have tried your suggestions to remingtonfoxx with no luck, do you have any other suggestions?
I appreciate any ideas on this.
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
14er...It's the same issue as described above in post 32. Get the
recoil spring plug out and move the slide as far forward as it will go...then tap on the rear of the slide with a rawhide mallet. A length of 2X4 will do, but don't hit it too hard.
recoil spring plug out and move the slide as far forward as it will go...then tap on the rear of the slide with a rawhide mallet. A length of 2X4 will do, but don't hit it too hard.
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14er
Member
Thanks for the quick reply 1911 Tuner.
Unfortunately, since it is a compact, I am not able to remove the recoil spring plug until after the slide is removed from the frame. I can try the mallet tonight and see what happens.
Unfortunately, since it is a compact, I am not able to remove the recoil spring plug until after the slide is removed from the frame. I can try the mallet tonight and see what happens.
14er
Member
remingtonfoxx
I am having the same problem you were re: the slide not coming off the frame and wanted to know if you were ever able to remedy this issue. If so, how did you do it?
Thanks
I am having the same problem you were re: the slide not coming off the frame and wanted to know if you were ever able to remedy this issue. If so, how did you do it?
Thanks
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
Ah! One of those. Okay. Just remove the slidestop and use the mallet. It should come off once the lower barrel lug is clear of the recess.
14er
Member
1911 Tuner-
Tapping the mallet on the end of the slide worked!! The culprit looked to be the barrel link pin. It had worked itself over a hair. I tried to tap it back over with no luck, so I pulled out the dremel and made it good. Is it common for the link pin to do this?
Thanks again.
Tapping the mallet on the end of the slide worked!! The culprit looked to be the barrel link pin. It had worked itself over a hair. I tried to tap it back over with no luck, so I pulled out the dremel and made it good. Is it common for the link pin to do this?
Thanks again.
HeavyDuty
Member
Told 'ya so! You owe me a donut.
14er
Member
You got it Heavy Duty -
I'll send the donut in the mail.
I'll send the donut in the mail.
I've a Tanfoglio Witness 1911 which suffer from the same problem, a "walking" barrel link pin. I was really sorry first time it happen.
Time to time I've to reset-it, I check-it on every cleaning and set it back, when needed, before he protrude. A punch of the right size, a hammer, a good support for barrel are all I need.
I'll probably change the barrel link pin.
doubs43,
please help, I don't understand what have been done. It's a punch mark or something like that ?
Time to time I've to reset-it, I check-it on every cleaning and set it back, when needed, before he protrude. A punch of the right size, a hammer, a good support for barrel are all I need.
I'll probably change the barrel link pin.
doubs43,
please help, I don't understand what have been done. It's a punch mark or something like that ?
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