1911 Trigger Pull Kit

[cat_IT_guy]

I have a Springfield Armory Loaded(? I think) 1911 in .45. I love the looks and function of the gun, but Im currently not able to shoot it as well as I would like. While the most obvious answer is to practice more (I plan on this anyway) - I know that the trigger pull is much heavier than I like. I found some 'Cylinder & Slide Mfg' 1911 trigger pull kits on Brownells http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=5502/Product/1911-AUTO-TRIGGER-PULL-KITS. The reviews on the site are pretty good - but its also a site designed to sell things, so I tend to take shopping-site-reviews with a grain of salt. Im hoping one or more of my fellow THR members has some 1st hand experience with these and can discuss. If not - maybe I'll be the first.

 

[ugaarguy]

Before you go buying parts get a gunsmith to check the trigger pull weight so you'll know what it is going in. The solution may be as simple as getting the sear spring adjusted, and/or getting the hammer-sear engagement surfaces cleaned up. Those are things a good smith can take care of quickly and at minimal cost.

 

[LiveLife]

Here's a two part video of a 1911 trigger job fixed by a gunsmith after the initial trigger job using a trigger kit did not go well. The video outlines in detail what's involved in doing a trigger job.

Part 1 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eCF2u3K743A

Part 2 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-uHeePP1CY&feature=fvwrel

 

[theQman23]

Stoning the sear to the correct angle, making sure the hammer is cut to 89 degrees and has no more than .020 hook height, and adjusting both of the leaves on the spring will do wonders for most 1911's. If you want to buy the parts, that's cool, go ahead and get them, but honestly, you'll have to look them over as well.

You could just do a trigger job on what you have if a lighter trigger is the only motivation.

 

[Jolly Rogers]

Here's a two part video of a 1911 trigger job fixed by a gunsmith after the initial trigger job using a trigger kit did not go well. The video outlines in detail what's involved in doing a trigger job.

Part 1 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eCF2u3K743A

Part 2 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-uHe...feature=fvwrel

Those videos showing a trigger job by Terry show how NOT to modify a 1911's trigger group.
The procedures are not what a competent smith will do. Please don't refer to these videos as a source with out a strong disclaimer. Terry is a HACK.

Reference this forum thread:
http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=245539&highlight=Trigger+Terry
Joe

 

[cat_IT_guy]

Hmmm..... all good points. Anyone have experience with the Springfield Custom shop and $100 'action job' lol?

 

[LiveLife]

The procedures are not what a competent smith will do. Please don't refer to these videos as a source with out a strong disclaimer.

Joe, read through the linked thread and I'll add a disclaimer in the future.

At least the two part trigger job video illustrated to some extent the tools and amount of work involved so anyone considering doing their own 1911 trigger job can have a better idea whether to do it themselves or not. I do appreciate Terry Gardner of Impact Guns for being willing to be video taped and sharing with others.

If better videos of 1911 trigger jobs are available, I am interested in seeing them.

 

[jfrey]

Have a good 1911 smith take a look at it. It generally doesn't take too much to clean one up if you know what you are doig. If Springfield will do an action job for $100.00, that might be money well spent. I'd look into it.

 

[Lager]

Remember, there are # of things that effect your conception of a trigger pull.
One is the travel of the trigger before it reaches the release point, thats called creep.
Second is the actual pressure measured in lbs and ounces to release the trigger itself.
The third is the over travel the trigger moves to be able to reset itself.
Ive been shooting a 1911 for years and years in both target and action shooting and I have found out that the actual pressure required to release the hammer made no difference in accuracy in my SpringField 1911.
What did make a difference was a Wilson trigger that has an overtravel adjustment screw, that eliminated the trigger travel after the break.
At the same time I had a "trigger job" done to reduce the creep to nothing and the "pull" needed down to about 2 lbs.
Did all this increase my accuracy?
Yes and No. Depending on what I was doing.
If I was competing in Bullseye? The light trigger, lack of creep helped my scores from the one handed/shakey stance they require.
I then started competing in action shooting and found the light trigger hampered me because I found myself applying light trigger pressure before the target was centered in my sights,sending the round off before I was really ready.
So now Im back to the 4-5 lb trigger pull and still have no creep and a fast reset.
So, I suggest? If your looking at a "trigger job", look to have a clean crisp trigger and not concern your self about the actual pressure it takes to release the hammer. If all your fundamentals are correct, a light trigger is not going to make you a better shooter.
Hope all this helps.

 

[LiveLife]

FWIW, there are 1911 trigger job threads in Gunsmithing and Repairs category under the Consolidated 1911 Clinic Thread - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=61238

1911 Homestyle Trigger Job
1911 Trigger Job Clinic Part 1 the Hammer
1911 trigger Job Clinic Part 2 Sear
1911 Trigger Job Clinic Part 3 Disconnector
1911 Trigger Job Clinic Part 4 The trigger

 

[ichiban]

To actually answer your question, yes, I have. I had a S&W that had a 6+# trigger pull (measured) and installed the duty/carry 4.5# kit. Everything worked as expected and it was truly a drop in installation, no fitting required. The trigger pull measured 4 lb 6oz afterward. I was happy with the ease of installation and results.

 

[Skylerbone]

The C&S trigger kits make for an excellent end result once fitted correctly by a competent smith. Is this something you can drop-in sans adjustment and have work as it should and as you expect it to? No.

These kits are prepared on a jig that will not correlate to the hole locations on your frame or the pins in your pistol. That means your trigger may not have the required pre-travel necessary to prevent trigger bounce (unsafe) and may render your thumb safety unsafe as well.

I have one 1911 with a C&S fire control group in it and another with C&S sear/disconnector. First rate quality but not drop-in. They are parts of a complete system that included addressing the trigger, trigger track, pins and disconnector track.

OP, you're 90 miles away from Geneseo, I'd recommend a visit here: http://1911doctor.com/. Call Rob and discuss your requirements and ask him about the job. His web site lists his credentials, he will be familiar with your model, and I can personally vouch for his work.

 

[cat_IT_guy]

Skylerbone - thanks for the link. I'd gladly drive 90miles for a good quality job. Sounds very reasonable, price-wise, as well. The more I read - the less confidence I have in doing in myself and Im just thinking I'll drop the $100+/- on a good 'smith rather than a kit that may - or may not - do what I want.

 

[HisSoldier]

One thing worthy of mention, if you are a revolver guy you may never be happy with an auto pistols trigger. I'm a 1911 guy, and when I shot a S&W .357 using .38 special ammo I was surprised at how light and crisp the trigger was. There are limitations to how low you can go with the trigger weight safely in an autoloader.

I'm still a 1911 guy by the way, having 5 or 6 rounds is like being in a straight jacket to me.