Trigger pull???

[Grim Peeper]

I just put a new trigger and hammer, plus sear, disconnector and hammer strut and other internals In my springfield 1911 A1 GI. I had to fit them them both especically the trigger Filing down (tall wise) and I found that I have a very sensitive trigger now. Im used to the GI trigger(stiff) now It is almost like a professional trigger pull. It still sets in all positions. 1, 2 and 3 I can pull,set and wait then it almost a babies touch to drop the hammer. Can anyone describe what the perfect trigger feels like. Its almost like I did it too good? if that makes any sense. I havent shot it yet and I cant wait but I fear a fully automatic 1911. I wrap the slide and it becomes fully cocked saftey works great for cocked and locked. Did I do good.

 

[Shadow 7D]

If you don't know when it will break, but it is still crisp, smooth and consistent, that is what I have been told is the perfect trigger, I got one, spongy, stackable, but otherwise smooth, crisp, and consistent, works well for me, but does scare the heeby geebies out of me every once in the while.

A trigger like that kinda defeats flinch, but it's still a personal thing, I like a crisp sharp break, with consistent pressure, and it breaks like a glass rod where I expect it. I'm fine with anything under 6-7 pounds, but more than 3 pounds.

 

[Grim Peeper]

Thanks for the reply! The trigger is slightly less than that. There is not alot of break like a glass rod just a little bit of a break. It more like a peice of graphite in a number 2 pencil if that makes it clear. I guess ill have to get used to it. Too tell u the truth I like the pull a bit more cracky but Ill have just get used to it. Thanks.

 

[Frank Ettin]

I think it might be a bad idea to get used to it. It sounds way too light. And it's also possible that if it's as light as it sounds, it may be prone to go full auto -- or at least fire two or three rounds at a time. That is unsafe and has a potential for causing you serious legal grief.

I don't know what the problem may be, but one possibility is that the nose of the sear isn't properly engaging the hammer hook. Did you stone the sear and hammer hook? How did you confirm the correct angle and engagement? Another possibility is too little tension in the sear spring.

You probably should get a trigger pull gauge and measure it. FWIW, the triggers on all my 1911s are set at a crisp 4 to 5 pounds.

 

[Grim Peeper]

Well to be honest I left the sear and disconnector from springfield in though I have the wilson handy I was just seeing how they would work with the wilson hammer. I think that the original springfield sear and disconnector might be creating a soft trigger with the wilson hammer. It feels border line perfect but a little light. Im still experimenting but the strut is still springfield too. Should I put in all the wilson parts I have? that is everything but mainspring housing. They all look identical to the SA parts Im guessing the sear is the golden piece to the puzzle.

 

[Frank Ettin]

The "golden piece of the puzzle" is the sear to hammer hook engagement. Please understand that in general parts for 1911s seldom just "drop in." There are some sear and hammer sets available from a couple of sources (Cylinder & Slide being one) where the hammer hooks and sear have already been properly mated. These can often just drop in, at least when the pin holes in the frame are within spec.

The hammer strut shouldn't be an issue.

 

[Grim Peeper]

I just put in the wilson sear and disconnector and they make things a bit stiffer yet smoother than the original springfield trigger pull. In fact it feels great just a bit more break than the original trigger pull. The strut is still springfield and the strut pin is wilson. Im going to have my gunsmith look at it on monday and dovetail my front sight. The sear, disconnect, and hammer are now all wilson for better or worse. Thanks for the input and I dont plan to shoot it till it is perfect. I just like to tinker with this stuff. Thanks again for the input!!!

 

[The Lone Haranguer]

If you're dong this level of home gunsmithing, a trigger pull gauge to evaluate your actual results is only a small added investment. But a "baby's touch" sounds awfully light. Such pulls should be left for target shooting. A self defense handgun should have a 4-5 lb. pull and maybe even a small amount of takeup. As long as it still has a "crisp" break you can still shoot fine with it.

 

[Quack]

so you have any take-up on the trigger? if not, then you got some work to do.

 

[Frank Ettin]

..so you have any take-up on the trigger? if not, then you got some work to do....

Definitely, for proper function a 1911 trigger requires some take-up.

 

[Drail]

Drop the slide on an empty chamber (no mag) withjout touching the trigger 2 or 3 times and see if the hammer follows the slide forward. I am afraid you do not have correct hammer sear engagement or the sear spring is way too light. And you SHOULD fear an fully automatic 1911. Ignition parts in a 1911 cannot simply be swapped in and out unless you know how to check hammer/sear engagement and safeties. Be very careful with that gun.

 

[Shadow 7D]

By the way, a hanging fish scale can work as a trigger pull gauge in a pinch

 

[mljdeckard]

What is it you were trying to make it do? Why did you change it in the first place?

 

[Shadow 7D]

Like he said, he like to fiddle with his gun, and some people like to make things pretty, or like he said, he could just be putting in a new trigger because he wants something better.

 

[Grim Peeper]

I bought the 1911 A1 GI to expiriment with I havent altered the frame or the slide at all. Im changing out parts both for funtionality and astetics. I could easily put the old parts back in and return it to its old GI form but Im trying a few things first. That light trigger I explained was when I had the wilson trigger on the springifield sear and disconnect in the pistol. I put the wilson sear and disconnect in today and it feels a little heavier now but I was just wondering if I had left the springer sear iin there whether there would be any bad outcomes. The trigger pull is light yet has a little crisp in there. Ill put it this way I wouldnt want it much lighter. I racked the slide and bunch of times quickly and slowly and the hammer always sits back correctly. To tell you the truth I like the trigger pull with combined wilson springer parts and it sets in all 3 position and pulls very nicely. But ill probally keep the wilson sear and disconnector in just to prevent any problems and the heavier trigger makes me feel more secure that I wont accidently blast one off in the wrong direction

 

[Grim Peeper]

Yes It has a substantial take up about a 1/4 inch with resistance of a light spring and then it pauses as if there is a an object a little stiffer than the button on a cell phone about 2 or 3x a cell phone button push and then add this pressure to drop the hammer. sorry that the best description I can muster. Iused to mush crisper triggers the original GI was pretty much that glass rod analogy mentioned easier. I like the trigger pull but I think I need a professionals opinion I wouldnt care for much lighter.

 

[Grim Peeper]

More like exactly the push of a cell phone button 3x if you faced it away from you and pushed on it like a trigger. And this is past the take up point when it stops and is ready to drop with added pressure being what I described.

 

[Grim Peeper]

Pic of the gun beaver tail is being replaced with SA tang fitted soon

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[MICHAEL T]

As I remember Wilson hammer and sear require finishing. . They are not just drop in They need final stoning. Their are special tools for this job, This might work now but be trouble after a couple 100 rounds. C&S and a couple others offer Hammer & sear correctly fitted But that still assumes all pin holes are drilled in spec from factory.

Went to Wilson web All his hammers say require new sear and Minor fitting required. In other words not drop in parts



Tinkering has destroyed many a good 1911

 

[Grim Peeper]

Taken... Thank you!!! I will not shoot till Ive read this very thick book. Can I damage this gun even if I dont shoot it? I havent forced any parts in the pistol all parts that ive put in seem very fluid and agreeable otherwise I take them out immediately. Trigger took polishing top wise and grip saftey needed smoothing where it encountered the back spring. But otherwise everything seems fine I havent forced anything. Do all trigger, sear, disconnect relationships require stoning/fitting? Did springfield do this on all the original parts. Am I doing damage by dry firing this weapon? I really am grateful for any of your input. Thanks

Grim