do you recommend the pre travel adjustable triggers? Or just the over travel adjustable?
Well.... depends on what you're doing with the pistol.
For Bullseye guns, for pretravel, like Jim Clark, I'd thread a 2-56 set screw in the forward part of the bow, adjust it, then loc-tite it in place. That adjustment must be made after all trigger work is complete, and is only for target guns. Too little pretravel will tend to make any hammer follow issues worse.
For the most part, for ever "trigger job" I've done for customers, where a trigger was replaced, only over-travel was used.
I guess you could get one that was adjustable for both OT and PT and just not use the PT....
When adjusting OT, make sure the sear clears the half cock notch when the hammer moves forward. Some alteration of the hammer may be needed if there's a lot of "meat" that comprises the notch itself. Don't remove too much.
Fitting a 1911 trigger, the way I think about it, is two separate operations. You need to strip down the frame - no sear, no hammer, no disconnector, no magazine release. Step one is to fit the trigger itself. The part you press on has to fit the frame. Minute variation in frame window size, width, and the relationship of trigger bow slot to trigger itself... some fitting, careful file or better yet surface grinder work is needed, depending on your level of proficiency and tools available. You can do that with a draggy bow. Step two is to make sure the bow does not drag in its slot. Its more or less normal to sometimes have a trigger drag before its fully seated. As long as the final 3/16 to 1/4 inch is not dragging, you're good to go. Very very.... very... minute adjustment is needed at times. Make sure the magazine drops free. Try different magazines when doing this.
All of that above, rather simplistic... but the good mechanical person can figure it out.
