mainmech48
Member
Lubeck: For one thing, S&W just hasn't produced nearly as many .22 RF revolvers as centerfires. And of those, the vast majority in the past few decades have been "premium" models, such as the K-22, M-17 & 18, and the J-frame "Kit Guns".
IMO, the "traditional" market for most .22 revolvers falls into three basic catagories: everyday working tools, companion/understudy for a CF counterpart, and recreational target/plinkers.
Also just MO, but I think that the largest segment for most of my lifetime was the "everyday tools" part. This consisted primarily of folks who were a lot more concerned with durability and utility for a modest price than they were with fine fit and finish or elegant design. For example my grandfather, a farmer in Henry Co., MO, kept his only rimfire handgun, an H&R pre-Sportsman 999, hanging on a nail in the feed locker of his barn. It was there to dispatch rats and other varmints and the occasional hog for butchering in the fall. Rural folks in similar circumstances, trappers and others of modest means usually bought an H&R, Iver Johnson, High Standard, or one of the proprietary brands from Sears or Montgomery Ward in a new revolver, or whatever they happened to get in a good swap for a used one.
I'd bet that for every beautiful old Colt or S&W rimfire revolver sold there were a dozen or more of the other more prosaic brands produced and sold. The fact that many, if not most, of both types have simply been "used up" over the years and demand has actually increased accounts for a lot of why what's left costs as much as it does.
As others have said, if you want a training piece to go with your S&W centerfire there are quite a few M-18s still around. While a nice one isn't likely to be cheap, with some patient shopping and a little luck you should be able to get a very decent one in the $350 range. The DWs are very good revolvers, noted for their consistently fine accuracy and good value. Some "K" frame holsters will fit them, but they're closer in size to the Colt Pythons and just a tad larger than the Smiths.
My own experience with the Taurus 94 has been very satisfactory. I've had my 4" ss for over 15 years now, and it's given me excellent service. IMO, most of the complaints about the action can be readily and inexpensively addressed by replacing the extremely heavy (14 lb.) trigger return spring with a lighter Wolff unit and the right lubrication. Brownell's has a Wolff ""Shooter's Pak" with a 9 lb. (factory is 11) hammer spring and both 9 and 6.5 lb. trigger springs for about $10.50. Stock number is 969-301-510. FWIW, this is a fairly easy DIY but will take some experimentation to find the best combination of items for 100% ignition reliability and positive trigger return. While I'd leave any stone work to a professional, you'd be surprised at how much smoother the action will feel with a little judicious application of one of the newer "high tech" lubes in the right places. I've had good results from Tetra and the "Metal-to-Metal" moly grease from Beeman's airguns.
IMO, the "traditional" market for most .22 revolvers falls into three basic catagories: everyday working tools, companion/understudy for a CF counterpart, and recreational target/plinkers.
Also just MO, but I think that the largest segment for most of my lifetime was the "everyday tools" part. This consisted primarily of folks who were a lot more concerned with durability and utility for a modest price than they were with fine fit and finish or elegant design. For example my grandfather, a farmer in Henry Co., MO, kept his only rimfire handgun, an H&R pre-Sportsman 999, hanging on a nail in the feed locker of his barn. It was there to dispatch rats and other varmints and the occasional hog for butchering in the fall. Rural folks in similar circumstances, trappers and others of modest means usually bought an H&R, Iver Johnson, High Standard, or one of the proprietary brands from Sears or Montgomery Ward in a new revolver, or whatever they happened to get in a good swap for a used one.
I'd bet that for every beautiful old Colt or S&W rimfire revolver sold there were a dozen or more of the other more prosaic brands produced and sold. The fact that many, if not most, of both types have simply been "used up" over the years and demand has actually increased accounts for a lot of why what's left costs as much as it does.
As others have said, if you want a training piece to go with your S&W centerfire there are quite a few M-18s still around. While a nice one isn't likely to be cheap, with some patient shopping and a little luck you should be able to get a very decent one in the $350 range. The DWs are very good revolvers, noted for their consistently fine accuracy and good value. Some "K" frame holsters will fit them, but they're closer in size to the Colt Pythons and just a tad larger than the Smiths.
My own experience with the Taurus 94 has been very satisfactory. I've had my 4" ss for over 15 years now, and it's given me excellent service. IMO, most of the complaints about the action can be readily and inexpensively addressed by replacing the extremely heavy (14 lb.) trigger return spring with a lighter Wolff unit and the right lubrication. Brownell's has a Wolff ""Shooter's Pak" with a 9 lb. (factory is 11) hammer spring and both 9 and 6.5 lb. trigger springs for about $10.50. Stock number is 969-301-510. FWIW, this is a fairly easy DIY but will take some experimentation to find the best combination of items for 100% ignition reliability and positive trigger return. While I'd leave any stone work to a professional, you'd be surprised at how much smoother the action will feel with a little judicious application of one of the newer "high tech" lubes in the right places. I've had good results from Tetra and the "Metal-to-Metal" moly grease from Beeman's airguns.
When I got into IDPA, first thing I did was purchase a Dillon Square Deal progressive to speed things up. I was shooting a LOT of practice at the time in 9mm. It set me back about 250 bucks, money well spent. I ebayed a Lee Pro 1000 a while back for 40 bucks! Of course, I already have dies, all other necessary equipment for reloading. I can crank 3-400 rounds per hour out of those progressives. Casting the bullets is the slowest part of it, but I can knock out a hundred bullets in about 20 minutes easily enough once the pot and mold are up to temp. I could do a lot more with a 6 cavity mold, but all mine are 2 cavity molds. Casting range scrap, I keep my costs down to about $1.80 a box for any centerfire, including .45 Colt! That's in the ball park for .22LR.