223 and H335 which primer

Status
Not open for further replies.
i would use some of the cci small rifle magnum primers, or if you are trying to get as close to a military load as you can, use their mil. spec primers. i use accurate 2230 for the most part and it works great in my colt 6920.
 
Well I have plenty of time, patience is so so teehee.
Anyhow I screw the die off like 3 full turns, resize a case, and then place it in the chamber and let the bolt sit on it, then use the forward assist?
Rifle is a Colt Match Target 6700 (A3 flattop 20 inch with a nato chamber)
then if the case doesnt fit, turn the sizing die in small incriments to size then repeat the fitting until it will close, then screw in a hair more?
 
Since I've never actually done it myself, I'll say that's probably right, but I'll let someone more experienced than myself answer that question for sure. You may find that 3 full turns out is too far to start with... not sure though. In either event, once you've got your die set, be sure to resize several cases of different headstamps and brass lifes (twice fired, once fired, three times fired, etc.) as some brass may be "harder" than others and may spring back a little more, meaning it needs to be resized a bit farther down. The bolt should close on ALL your resized brass - that is the #1 concern, with ideal die adjustment second.
 
Alright, 1/2 or one full turn sounds like a good place to start then. Start with thrice and once fired brass and see how they do. I only have Remington and mixed military cases so we'll see how that goes.
 
In a dozen or so years of shooting the .223 in various rifles H335 has provided me with some of my most accurate rifle loads using rem 7 1/2 primers.

I think that you might well find that 27.5 grains of some current lots of H335 behind a 55 grain bullet will do things to your rifle that you won't like, whether 27.5 grains worked well for Sierra whenever they loaded what they tested or not...

All I'm recommending is that extra caution be used when working up H335 loads...

The eye you save may be your own...

Funny you should mention this as I loaded per Sierra manual using H335 and their 52 MatchKing with a load that was under max. Upon firing I see a lot of smoke rising from under my bolt and very hard lifting of the bolt - a blown primer.

As the guy working at Sinclair Int. told me afterwards - "The loading manual is a merely a guide." "You are not dealing with the same lot they used with any of the components , not the same conditions and positively not the same firearm"
 
I use H335 to test brass in .223 and .308.

The CCI450 small rifle magnum primer is the thickest and hence toughest primer out there, but it is not needed for the .223 brass, that gives up ~75,000 psi.

The CCI450 is very necessary for 6mmBR testing.

Here is a pic of some 223 brass I overloaded in a work up.
Magnum primers would only make it worse.
 

Attachments

  • BlueDot223Vmax33Gr19,20,20GrDSCF0043.jpg
    BlueDot223Vmax33Gr19,20,20GrDSCF0043.jpg
    22.9 KB · Views: 62
Question from a neophyte. Once a reloader develops a load for his particular gun, powder, bullet, primer, should you start all over from minimum load when you buy a new container of the same powder? Thanks.

Waska
 
If it is the same lot number then I would say no. If it has a different lot number, definately.
Well, For rifle yes, Pistol I dont think so.
 
Waskawood-

If the powder is a different lot number, back your load down 10-15 percent, and work back up. 99% of the time, there'll be no trouble. But that one percent can bite you, hard. Especially if you are at the top of the charts.
 
Blown Primers

Blown Primers require disassembling the bolt and cleaning the black gunk from all internal parts of the bolt, especially the firing pin hole. Talk about sl-o-ow firing pin action and mushy trigger pulls; blown primers create both problems, including misfires. Even a super-fast acting David Tubb Speed-Lock firing pin cannot make up for black gunk within the bolt. Don't ask me how I learned this lesson the HARD WAY! Maybe you should anyway: I load to max with CCI 450 primers, and apparently well-beyond max with CCI 400 primers. .223 Remingtons are at the pinnacle of .22 centerfire performance regarding small rifle primers. I decapped 900 rounds last year due to WRONG primer application, talk about time-consuming! Talk about killing a winter! All a manufacturer needed telling is what primer is suitable for what load right on the primer package. Still, learning the hard-way is better than remaining ignorant. cliffy
 
Cliffy, Just wondering what exactly happened in your situation? Decapping 900 rounds doesnt sound like a good time to me either. I run cci 400's with my loads so I'm curious as to your experience.
Whats the deal with your wrong primer application?
 
Blown Primers require disassembling the bolt and cleaning the black gunk from all internal parts of the bolt, especially the firing pin hole.

Yep , after my primer blowing range session I drove up to Sinclair and told them what happened and the guy said to take the bolt apart and that I was likely to see a small piece of primer in there. I bought a bolt removal tool and he was correct.
 
For Hornady 52gr Match bullets I got my best group so far with

24.5gr H335 and BR-4 primers. I am shooting a remington 700 with a comparator OAL .020 off the lands at 1.870". My average velocity was 3172.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top