.223 brass question

[newreloader]

Hi everyone,
o ordered some once fired for my .223 Remington Mini14. Out of 225 pieces 82 were clearly marked .223, the rest IMI and MEK, with Nato markings,and no .223 on them, although they measure up a same, also a few .556 cases thown in. Im reluctant to reload the Nato marked ones as Im not sure if safe. Guess my question is: Can I reload them if I do so to 223 specs?
Thanks to any and all in advance.
Doug in n.e. Pa.

 

[Reloadron]

On any NATO brass check the brass to see if the primer pockets have crimps. Remove the crimps if necessary then size and reload same as any other brass. IMI is Israli not sure about MEK. Anyway remove any primer pocket crimps, size them, load them and shoot them.

Ron

 

[z7]

As Ron said, process them normally, just be aware you will more than likely need to remove the primer crimp, you can ream or swage, for 556 I don't have much luck reaming so I swage, I will swage 7.62 and if a primer hangs up I will ream it. There are plenty of tools and ways to get it done.

 

[Walkalong]

Yep, prep them and use them, assuming they pass the eye ball test and the internal check.

Do you have any questions about how to prep them? As Reloadron posted, the biggest difference is the possible primer crimp which must be removed.

 

[CrackedBrass45]

My mini eats 223 and 556 and smiles while doing it

 

[1KPerDay]

Unless your mini is the TARGET model, it has a 5.56 safe chamber. Yes, you can reload them and you'll be fine. MEK is Turkish/ZQI brass I believe.

 

[JO JO]

yes as said above you will need to remove the crimp but thats a
one time deal, after that just processes as you would normally

 

[SouthernDawg]

MEK is the ZQI ammo they sell at wallyworld!

 

[Rule3]

Some 223 Rem marked brass lie PMC can also be crimped which must be removed. As mentioned look at the barrel of you rifle is is stamped 223 Rem or 5.56?? If 5.56 you are good with 223 not the other way around.

 

[newreloader]

223 brass

Thanks all, how much trouble to remove crimp?

 

[1KPerDay]

Some 223 Rem marked brass lie PMC can also be crimped which must be removed. As mentioned look at the barrel of you rifle is is stamped 223 Rem or 5.56?? If 5.56 you are good with 223 not the other way around.

Minis have been marked .223 forever and all are good with 5.56 EXCEPT the aforementioned TARGET model, which has a true .223 chamber. Tons of ARs marked .223 are fine with 5.56 also. When in doubt, check with the manufacturer or have a smith gauge the chamber/throat.

 

[1KPerDay]

Thanks all, how much trouble to remove crimp?

Some. You can use several methods, from cutting with a simple phillips head bit, to a primer crimp remover/cutting tool, to swaging. You MUST remove the crimp to reinsert a primer, though.

I personally use the tip from a Lyman primer pocket reaming tool
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1064643126/lyman-primer-pocket-reamer-tool Remember primers come large and small. You'll need the small tool for .223 (and any crimped 9mm you find).

and chuck it in a cordless drill, and wear leather gloves. Makes short work of the crimps.

Some recent LC brass has a weird quad-shaped square stamped crimp that IT APPEARS TO ME should probably be swaged out rather than reamed. But that's another issue. For typical ring or 3-stake crimps the cutter/reamer works fine.

 

[Lman57]

I have a lot of PMC I use my Dillon Swager to swage the primer pockets makes it easy an quick.

http://www.dillonprecision.com/content/p/9/pid/25263/catid/8/Super_Swage_600

 

[Reloadron]

Thanks all, how much trouble to remove crimp?

Get the crimp out. There are a dozen ways (maybe more) of removing primer pocket crimps. The link will help. Comes down to two methods, reaming which removes some material (brass), and swageing which does not remove any material (brass). In a pinch I have removed crimps using a #2 Phillips screwdriver, it can be that simple. If you ream you don't need to go ballistic about it and ream away half the primer pocket, just remove the crimp. The link shows a few different crimp styles so give it a read.

A Google of "removing 5.56 and 223 primer crimp" will get you a dozen hits with more suggestions, tools and methods.

Ron

 

[Rule3]

Minis have been marked .223 forever and all are good with 5.56 EXCEPT the aforementioned TARGET model, which has a true .223 chamber. Tons of ARs marked .223 are fine with 5.56 also. When in doubt, check with the manufacturer or have a smith gauge the chamber/throat.

Correct a mundo. The mini is 223/5.56 other than the Target model

He said he had a 223 Rem Mini

http://www.ruger.com/products/mini14RanchRifle/specSheets/5801.html

http://www.ruger.com/products/mini14TargetRifle/models.html

 

[Jason Neighbors]

Im not one who knows the "real" difference in .223/5.56. However I think most of the hype is about loaded ammo. Ask yourself this, Has anyone ever saw a die set labeled "5.56x45mm"? As to what I understand the .223 is loaded a little light than the 5.56 anyways.

 

[mboylan]

Im not one who knows the "real" difference in .223/5.56. However I think most of the hype is about loaded ammo. Ask yourself this, Has anyone ever saw a die set labeled "5.56x45mm"? As to what I understand the .223 is loaded a little light than the 5.56 anyways.

The only real difference is the pressure it is loaded to. Otherwise, the variation in cases is just normal manufacturer variation.

 

[newreloader]

223 brass

Mini is the .223 tatical

 

[higgite]

My personal take on it is if you take "5.56" brass in good condition and prep it properly then load it to .223 Rem specs, it is .223 Rem ammo and is perfectly safe in .223 Rem chambers, including the Mini 14 Target. ymmv

 

[balderclev]

Once you remove the crimp and size them, they are .223. All I use in my 223 (a couple of bolts, one AR and one Mini-14) are military brass, mostly LC.

There are arguments about a difference in wall thickness in military and commercial brass, but as long as you work up your loads, it becomes moot anyway.

 

[Rule3]

Mini is the .223 tatical

You can shoot either 223Rem or 5.56 in it. Just do the case prep work as described above.

Remove any military crimp and you will need to trim them to specified length or trim to length.

Military brass (5.56) is heavier walled and loaded to higher pressure. Once you size them all you will be fine. As mentioned there are no 5.56 dies.

 

[Coldfinger]

The straight scoop on .223 vs 5.56 is this. They are identical in most all facets of concept and operation with respect to crimped primers. The difference lies within the chamber of the rifle it's fired from. I know this comment is going to fire up some traditionalists but the fact is the chamber is what is pressure rated. If your rifle is chambered for .233 load to .223 pressures, if it's .223/5.56/Wylde load your preferred/most accurate recipe.
Neither of the cases you listed are American military markings I have a complete list of American manufacturers, and their location if anyone wants it.
Ready for the feedback......

 

[Coldfinger]

I must clarify one thing if I may.... cases do have pressure limits. In regard to .223 and 5.56 they can be loaded to the same safe pressure limits based upon the weapon fired from....

 

[newreloader]

223 brass

You people are great. i dont think i want to mess with the primer crimp thing, think I will see if i can get a partial refund.

 

[1KPerDay]

Probably cost you more to ship them back than what it's worth. Chuck a large phillips head screwdriver bit in your electric drill and spin them outta there. Take you 10 minutes.