.223 Case & other component preference

[WNTFW]

Do any of you have a preference on what case you use? (Definitely sticking to brass/boxer primed.)

I now have about 450 with the R-P headstamp. Used weight to determine quantity. Possibly getting some more free!! If not I'll be scrounging or buying more.

Are there any advantages to any other brands?
Is it better to stick with one or try different brands?
My AR has the 5.56 chamber & 1/9 16" bbl if that matters. Ammo is for general shooting not match ammo.

I see some have crimped primers. (mil-spec or 5.56?)
I have always heard keep cases separated by headstamp due to differences in internal volume.
This is my first time reloading rifle ammo & will use loads from a manual. Safety will be a priority.

Any component advice would be welcome.
I also need to get my dies.

Thanks,
WNTFW

 

[NuJudge]

Avoid Federal .223 brass because of primer pockets.

Other than that, the .223 is very forgiving, and will shoot at least decently with just about any reasonable combination.

Virtually all my .223 shooting is High Power matches. I like Winchester cases and Winchester or CCI regular primers, and like 748 in light bullets, IMR 4895 in mid-weight bullets, and RL-15 in heavy bullets. I have several .223 barrels, and they shoot well in all of them.

The A2 version has a short sighting plane, the shorter M4 sighting plane is really short. Consistent head positioning is even more important than the A2 in order to get good groups, and keep them from wandering about the target.

CDD

 

[mc223]

I use mostly Mil types of brass, because that is what I have. Works fine.
Here is a little bit more info on why the Fed brass could be a problem.

 

[taliv]

i have 10,000 rnds of R-P headstamp. I've been through them twice. they seem to work just fine. i bought them because they were cheaper though. i would have bought winchester if they'd been the same price

 

[eliphalet]

30 years ago I bought 1000 military 223 brass, mostly LC. Over the years I have shot most brands made. They all seem to work good for me, but then I am not a competition shooter. Guess you could say I am sloppy as I don't even look at the brand and still get under MOA if I do my part, and that;s good enough for the shooting I do.

Be safe though and that primer crimp will need to be removed. I have used a RCBS primer pocket tool plenty but for just a few I have used my pocket knife.

 

[WNTFW]

Thanks for all the info.

I used to reload shotshells & cases were critical. So I'm a little over cautious.

I can avoid the Federal!
I have heard conflicting stories on the Federal Primer Pockets in .308 & .30-06 as well. That cutaway picture nicely illustrates the possible cause.

Tonight I picked up about 160 more .223 & 5.56 nato cases all mixed headstamp. Weighing them on an accurate scale is an easy way to determine quantity.

Sounds like it is not a big issue to mix headstamps on light load or non-match ammo. I guess if your at the upper limits it would matter.

My m4gery could have easily had another 2-4 inches of sight radius and handguard. It is about half the sight radius of a Garand.

Thanks again,
WNTFW

 

[byf43]

Avoid Federal .223 brass because of primer pockets.

Other than that, the .223 is very forgiving, and will shoot at least decently with just about any reasonable combination.

Virtually all my .223 shooting is High Power matches. I like Winchester cases and Winchester or CCI regular primers, and like 748 in light bullets, IMR 4895 in mid-weight bullets, and RL-15 in heavy bullets. I have several .223 barrels, and they shoot well in all of them.

The A2 version has a short sighting plane, the shorter M4 sighting plane is really short. Consistent head positioning is even more important than the A2 in order to get good groups, and keep them from wandering about the target.

CDD

I can't say AVOID Federal brass. Not at all.
I've loaded Federal brass for many years and have not experienced bad primer pockets.

I will say however, judicious inspection of cases is MANDATORY of ANY cases that you use.
I have some Federal .223 brass that has been loaded 4 times (other than original factory load) an I'll get one more out of it, before crushing and tossing.

My shooting used to be on the High Power Match firing line, too.

My favorite loads use Sierra's 69 gr. BTHP and 23.0 gr. of H-335, Federal (or Winchester) brass, and a Federal 205M primer.

It's not my intent to be argumentive. Your Mileage May Vary. Mine does.






If you have any once fired Federal brass that you really are afraid to load and use. . . . you can send it to me for 'proper disposal'.

 

[dcloco]

I agree with BYF43 - EVERY brand/lot of brass varies.

My FC stamped ranks with the LC, Win, RP, and ROAG brass.

The S & B, IMI, & Norinco brass really sucks though....at least the brass of these brands that I tried.

 

[WNTFW]

byf43 & dcloco,
Thanks for adding you comments. YMMV is true.

I've not run across any Federal brass yet. That is why I can easily avoid it. I may not buy any but I sure will pick it up.

I have always thought of Federal as good ammo. The conflicting views on Federal primer pockets seem to be related on how heavy the power charge is, at least in some folks speculation.

I've heard good things about S&B brass - but I'm always leary of certain countries quality - I have a few of there cases.

I think the advice on "judicious inspection of cases is MANDATORY of ANY cases that you use." is really the most important part. Case inspection and prep is what I'm going to focus on to begin with. Good lighting makes a big difference!

As a new reloader I want to develop my skill - not have to rely on someone else for everything everytime. I guess what I handle is less critical than how I handle it.

Thanks,
WNTFW

 

[dcloco]

Something you might consider, spend the cash for a 100 count bag of Win or RP, get used to reloading, get some miles on you AND your equipment, then go after the once fired stuff.

Of note, range pick up is fine, but YOU MUST KNOW what is good brass and junk. If in doubt, toss it out!!

 

[NavyLCDR]

If you're going to use any crimped primer brass I would invest in the RCBS primer pocket swaging tool for about $25. I just bought a used one and what a deal! I pop all my brass on the swager that fits on the press ram and if it sticks, I run it up, if it doesn't stick to the swager I know it's good to go. BIG time savings! The instructions say to adjust the depth to match each particular brand of brass, but I have found just running the swager all the up into the primer pocket works just fine - still have nice tight primers.