223 Reloading Help

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KAC1911

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I have reloaded straight wall pistol before but this is my first attempt to reload a bottle neck rifle. I am setting up to reload for my AR-15. I am using 2 die rcbs full length resizing die set.

Question: After adjusting the first die and I resized and decap the fired cartridge the botail bullets fit into case mouth but the flat base one doesn't. There doesn't seem to be any way to increase the expander to open case mouth more.

Is this normal or am I doing something wrong?
 
This has been normal on rifle loads for me, as well. Part of the benefit of boattail, as you see, are ease of loading. When using flat-based bullets, I have to hold them with my fingers as I guide the cartridge into the die.

Also, as @2bfree said, getting rid of the 90-degree angle on the neck will help.
 
Are chamfering the case mouth? This takes off the inside edge of the mouth - should help with seating a flat base bullet.
Trimming your brass?
 
Thanks guys for the quick responses. I think sticking with the botail does have a advantage I wasn't aware of.
 
KAC1911 wrote:
After adjusting the first die and I resized and decap the fired cartridge the botail bullets fit into case mouth but the flat base one doesn't...

When you load for straight wall cases, you have a separate step where you use an expander die to put a slight bell on the case mouth to help start the bullet. This bell is then straightened up (or crimped into the bullet) by the bullet seating die. With bottleneck cases the mouth is sized straight to a diameter less than the bullet so that there is an inteference bit when the bullet is seated that provides enough tension to hold the bullet in place. Chamfering the case mouth provides an even surface for the base of the bullet to bear against as it essentially pushes the brass of the case neck out of the way during the seating operation.

Chamfer the case mouths (not too much you don't want the edge razor sharp) and then hold the bullet upright and straight as you raise the ram up to bottom of the seating die and the die will take care of the rest. Be slow and deliberate until you get the hang of it. If you're going slow, you will feel the mouth yield to accept the bullet and you'll know when something is wrong and you're about to collapse the case mouth.
 
I favor boattails for aerodynamics, in general, but you'll generally still want to chamfer the case mouth, however slightly. Even if your boattails seat, if you're not chamfering, you can see gouging of the jacket as the bullet is seated. I even chamfer very slightly my revolver brass to allow me to minimize my expansion step and prevent gouging on my jackets. Excessive expansion and crimping over works the case mouth and reduces case life, no sense in over-expanding when a slight flare and chamfer will allow seamless seating.
 
When you do get around to loading flat base bullets, watch and see if there are little crescent shaped pieces of copper accumulating around the press. If there are, it is an indication you are shaving a bit of the jacket off the bullet as it starts to seat. And since asymmetry in the base of the bullet can affect accuracy it is best to prevent it. It can generally be corrected by chamfering the case mouth just a little bit more.
 
Thanks again guys for the great advice and explanations. Will chamfer cases.

Do you guys FL size after each time or just neck resize? Because I also have a set of lee 223 collet dies too. I was considering fl sizing all the brass I have then trimming each to a oal then just neck resizing to keep from over working
the brass.
 
Sort of off topic but if you are used to pistol .223 Will need to be trimmed sooner or later.
Also you will need to watch for incipient case head separation. Things you generally don't have to worry about when loading pistol rounds.
Walkalong had a great post on it
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/incipient-case-head-separation.734058/
After trimming you will need to chamfer again. (inside and outside of the case neck)
 
I can tell you from personal experience, close attention to proper case sizing and shoulder setback is imperative or your rounds will stick in the chamber. There are many threads devoted to the subject here on the forum. Just a friendly reminder.
 
I had a similar problem when I started. I have the Hornaday dies and they needed to be adjusted. As mentioned they weren't giving the case the slight flair needed.

In my case, as said the flair is minor and the bullet has to be held but it goes in straight. Unlike straight wall pistol where the bullets actually sit in the flair nice
 
IMO, the most important initial step for someone new to handloading bottleneck cases is to set your sizing die properly. Watch a few videos and read about it on some of the reliable forums...like this one.
To do it right involves more than the couple of lines given to the process in most die instructions. The are a lot of benefits to doing it right.....and safety is one of them.
 
The only advice I can add on from everyone else is to read the instructions included with your dies. Even though I've handloaded around 10,000 rounds over the past 6 years I still read the instructions that came with the dies every time I need change my die setup!
 
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