264 Win Mag On A Mauser

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I'm looking to build a sporter rifle out of a old Mauser action I recently picked up. I like the 264 but have heard it is a barrel burner unless you use a stainless barrel. I intend to use the rifle for huntin Antelope, both Mule and White Tail Deer, and possibly Elk. I also plan to reload my brass. I usually shoot a Model 70 300WSM and my dad's pre 64 model 70 30-06. Just lookin for any suggestions about what barrel length would be recomended and such. Probally won't be shooting much over 250 yards, however antelope may cause me to stretch the range some. Any suggestions on the 264 and building my first Mauser Sporter would be appreciated.
 
Mauser(depending on which flavor) should handle the .264 mag easily. Any competent gunsmith should be able to do the build. <http://www.chuckhawks.com/264mag.htm>
 
I think the barrel burning stories are a little over blown. The .264 just isn't that different from the 7 Rem Mag. that nobody complains about. If I'm ever lucky enough to shoot out the barrel of one of mine I'll hang it on the wall with all the trophys it's collected. If I take up silhouette I'll trade velocity for barrel life and buy a .260, unti then it's a non issue for me.

Both of my .264's have 24 inch barrels. Max book loads that claim 3300fps generate 3200 at 15 feet in my rifles. I imagine the 26 inch barrel would a little extra.
 
Okay so who makes a good, affordable barrel for the 264 on a mauser action? I know that you get what you pay for but I'm not entering target matches or planning on snyping with the rifle any time soon. Thanks
 
Your gunsmith should be able to htread your 6.5mm barrel blank for a large ring Mauser and then chamber it after it is installed.
 
Your 98 Mauser action will need the bolt-face & extractor modified for the belted mag case. It will also have to be drilled & tapped for scope mounts, and a low-scope safety installed. You will also probably want a better trigger.

E. R. Shaw Barrels can do the whole conversion, probably as cheaply as anyone.

Their barrels are not match quality, but are at least as good as most factory barrels you find on off-the-shelf hunting rifles.

http://www.ershawbarrels.com/gunsmith.asp

rc
 
A much cheaper and easier route would be to find an old tired Savage or even a new Stevens 200 or marlin xl7 in a belted magnum. Then all you need to get started is a couple three hundred dollars for the barrel depending on how much quality you want. Stock, trigger, and other upgrades can come later as you go. With the Mauser everything has to be done all at once by someone with gunsmithing skills and access to machine tools

It's just not economically expedient these days to sporterize mausers unless you just really have a thing for them.
 
Good point krochus. The Savage/Stevens build vs a Mauser build would leave quite a few extra bucks for good glass. I would prefer the Mauser but as you said that would be because of preferred action.
 
basically it's a gun i would like to learn how to work on, without ruining a nice rifle, that i can also use. I really like the model 70 Winchesters which I belive are heavily based off of the Mausers
 
I'm all for building what you want in the caliber you want,on the platform you want,just because you want...to. You can't buy the personal satisfaction that comes with building your own.
 
I copied these photos, and I forget where. I titled them "commercial 264 Win FN Mauser Action".

Evidentially the guy had the lugs shear on his FN Mauser action. Now the Mauser action was never designed to use a belted magnum. A belted magnum case head is a little wider and that additional back thrust takes away from the built in margin of the action.

I own a FN actioned 30-06. The commercial FN action is one of the best built Mauser actions ever, but it is still made of plain carbon steels. Perfectly adequate for medium cased cartridges. But plain carbon steel does not have the ultimate or yield of even simple alloy steels.

So, what I am leading too is that you are probably looking at a military mauser, of unstated vintage. Made from plain carbon steels and case hardened for wear. I don’t think such an action would be a better choice for a 264 Win Mag than an commercial FN action, and yet in this case, the FN action was not strong enough.

You would be better off starting with a modern action. Any American rifle made since WW2 will be made of modern materials and in my opinion, would be a better candidate for a high intensity cartridge.


Commercial 264 FN Mauser Action 264 Win Mag

CommericalFNMauserrightboltlugs264W.jpg

CommericalFNMauserboltlugs264Win-1.jpg

CommericalFNMauserboltlugs2264Win.jpg

CommericalFNMauserboltface264Win.jpg
 
I have the Original .264 Westerner Model 70 from 1962, It came with a 26" barrel. If I was building one up today I would start with an action already designed to feed a Short belted mag, for sure. I think a Lothar Walther hammer forged stainless barrel would be nice and they are around $300. Plenty accurate for a .264 and some think hammer forged barrels, properly done, are harder from the work hardening. Also the current thought is the latest stainless are more resistant to errosion. I would go 26 or 27" to really burn up a good slow powder like the cheap H870. A 1 in 9 twist would stabilize any 140 low drag bullet easily.I like the .264 , it is hands down my favorite antelope gun. 600 yard kills are very doable on a good bipod.
 
"IN THIS CASE, the FN action was not strong enough"

Can't argue against that. THAT particular bolt did indeed fail. It most likely would have failed even if it had been in an action chambered in 30.06 or smaller. MOST Mauser actions, even military actions are more than a match for even the mighty .458 Winchester Magnum.
 
Some options for your build

First thing-don't buy a pristine military Mauser in full trim and cut it up-they are getting rarer, expensive and these days it just doesn't make sense to destroy the remaining history out there. Buy a beater rifle with a shot out barrel or one some other guy bought and cut up. Every one I have bought to sporterize I got on Sarco or Century junk rifles without matching numbers or any other worthwhile, collectible value. I believe both of these companies still have some rifles in this category. If you are just looking to get some experience a used savage is a good choice and will usually outshoot most military surplus rifles.

I have built several Mauser sporters on Yugo actions and one small ring Turk. For ease of conversion and cost reasons you might want to look into a 6.5-06 Ackley improved or one of the other similar rounds without a belt.

For the 6.5-06 you are only giving up about 150 fps for a 140 gr bullet and less for a lighter bullet. You use much less powder per shot and brass is much easier to find. You can use military 30-06 brass and run it through the resizing die (i do it with 308 to 260 without any problems). You do have to trim a far amount of length off. The bolt face and extractor doesn't have to be re-sized and the ackley improved cases actually have a lot less bolt thrust than the conventional rounds.

Mauser were made by everybody (i have read over 100 million were produced). I would recommend just about any of the full length large ring 98 actions-German, Check, Argentine, just about any of them. The yugo 48 actions are intermediate length and too short to feed long bullets in a 06 case, the Spanish might be too soft, most of the Turks are small ring (and some other latin/south American mausers also).

First-buy a book or two on how to do it-Kuhnhausen's book is good but really technical-wal mart sells a book called gunsmithing made easy that has a very good section on doing what you are talking about.

You will have to order a custom barrel from shaw or douglas. If you are going to do more than one gun buy your own barrel vise, action wrench, scope mounting jig. Don't buy a finish reamer, rent one from any of several different companies. If you are just wanting this one rifle pay a professional, it will be much cheaper (it really takes at least 3 rifles to pay for the tools-but buying tools is fun). Unless you are an accomplished welder get the bolt handle turned down by a professional. Buy a stock from boyds or richards microfit. Have a lot of fun.

The easiest route might be to buy a 'bubbaed' rifle with the original military or cheap barrel installed but most of the hard work done like the bolt handle. This are almst always cheap and readily available at most gun shows. There are almost always actions for sale on gunbroker also. But you need to know what you are buying to go this route-so buy the books first and then figure out what you doing. Kuhnhausen has a complete list of good actions.
 
It occured to me that you might look at the STW (shooting times western) calibers for building a hunting rifle. They seem to be a little ahead of "The Westerner" (.264 Win Mag)
 
Build the Mauser, I think you would be happier with a 6.5/06 or the Ackley flavor. Bolt actions and belted cartridges where never meant for each other. That they work as well as they do is a gunsmithing mystery.

Remember build the rifle because you want to. If you are doing this to save money you will be very disappointed.
 
I think bartonlong has it right.
Turning a surplus Mauser into a nice sporter is going to be either advanced DIY or expensive custom. You could buy a new hunting rifle or rebarrel a Savage for less.

As said, Shaw would be a source for the basics.
$155 for a barrel
$65 to install
$75 to set up for belted magnum
$45 to drill and tap for scope
$60 to bend bolt handle to clear scope
$65 for scope safety
$95 or more to blue
$30 return shippping.
$590 total
Add more for adjustable trigger.
Then plan for scope mount and scope.
Oh, yes, you need a stock, too.
 
I understand what you and bartonlong are saying and agree to a point. I can't speak for the OP but in my case I do everything on your list(except install and headspace the barrel) myself. Most of the smithing expense listed doesn't apply(to me at least). I buy stripped receivers and new/pull-off barrels from Gunbroker,com. I don't build magnums so bolt faces don't have to be modified. Still building a Mauser IS more expensive than other rifles but just switching a barrel on a Savage or the like is NOT building your own and that is the idea.
 
No,that isn't what I said. Simply changing a barrel isn't building your own it is simply modifying an existing rifle to something you could have just bought. Like swapping an upper on an AR,no "building" to it.
 
No,that isn't what I said. Simply changing a barrel isn't building your own it is simply modifying an existing rifle to something you could have just bought. Like swapping an upper on an AR,no "building" to it.

sorta like paying a gunsmith to swap out the barrel amongst other things in the process of "building" a mauser.:rolleyes:

Why do I seriously doubt the OP has the tools and skills to

Mill down the charger bridge
tap the reciever
cut off and reweld on a new bolt handle
thread install and headspace a bbl
open up the bolt face
reblue the finished barreled action

You guys try to portray building a QUALITY Mauser sporter as though it's something Joe 6pack can do in his garage with a pipe wrench, vice and a set of craftsman screwdrivers. We all know what kind of rifle comes out of this type situation

The rifle the OP wants to build is a far cry from simply throwing a M48 into a boyds stock.


jimmyraythomason
What I'm trying to say is your build is no more of a build than my Stevens 200 you even admit you bought most of your pieces with the machine work already done and just re assembled them


BTW I DID install and headspace my barrel and then later reamed it to a wildcat
 
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Why not? I do! I have no reason to believe the OP can't accomplish these things on his own without making an assumption of the OP's ability(and there is WAY too much of that around here).
 
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