28 gauge limitations?

[Guvnor]

Im considering a 28 gauge as my first shotgun. It sounds like a great choice on paper, but what are its real world limitations?

My intended uses would be very informal trap/skeet shooting. I know shooting trap with a 28 would be a stretch, but it would be more about being out shooting with friends than hitting every target.

Also I would like to hunt upland birds with the 28. Up to and including game preserve pheasant. Can the 28 gauge be used on birds as large as pheasant?

I noticed a 1oz. winchester hunting load is available for the 28. Is it right to assume that if a 20 gauge can can bring down pheasant with a 1oz load, a 28 can also? Or are there other factors involved?

I appreciate the advice!

 

[MCgunner]

Pheasant, it should work. I never owned one. I'm primarily into waterfowl and 28 is just not a proper gauge for waterfowl, what with steel shot being mandatory. I doubt anyone even loads steel in a 28, though I haven't looked.

It'd be a great dove gauge and I hunt doves a lot, but I like the 20, cheaper ammo, more available. And, I just can't see any advantage to the 28 worth messing with it over a 20 gauge that's easier to feed. 3" 20 works pretty good on ducks, too. I generally prefer 12 gauge on ducks, though, and it's probably the best all around choice for a guy with one shotgun. A 12 was my only shotgun for years, but I like variety now days. I'd very much like to have a nice 28 and a 16 gauge repeater or double (have a single shot) just because. A 28 gauge O/U or SxS built to scale would be very quick and handy.

 

[oneounceload]

28's are great and a LOT of fun to shoot. You mentioned drawbacks - it's the price of the ammunition......If you don't reload, or unless you have the money, 28 gets very expensive to shoot nothing but factory shells, especially when you get into clay targets.

For upland birds, including preserve pheasants, the 28 will work just fine - stoke it up with 1oz, or even the standard 3/4 oz of #6 or #5, put the right choke for the distance, be on the bird and you'll have no problems. many might say it doesn't pack enough wallop for bigger birds - if you do your part, it will do its part.

Unless you're going to do a lot of walking versus shooting, I would opt for a 28 built on the heavier 20 gauge frame - it will absorb the recoil that much more and make it even more pleasant to shoot.

Shotgunworld.com has many fans of the 28, there is even a subgauge section to ask even more detailed questions.

Welcome to the addiction.....

 

[Virginian]

Yes, the biggest drawback is money. The last time I looked, the cheapest 20 gauge shells at Wally World are $4.97, and the same brand of 28 gauge, with less shot of course, were I think $11.47. That is pretty typical. I looked because I have a 28 of course.
Also, the 28 is going to be slightly less effective, especially at trap, as you noted. I don't think game preserve birds will be an issue with a 28; they have never been for me.
I love the 28, but I would not recommend it as the first shotgun, I would recommend the 20. Just fun or not, the purpose of shooting at clay pigeons is to hit them. Every one you thought you were right on that doesn't break, is a little more discouraging. And there will be more of those at skeet as well as trap with a 28. The 20 hangs right with the 12 as far as top scores in skeet go, but the 28 does not.
Availability of the 28 versus the 20 in all brands and models of shotguns is also not as good.
The recoil isn't going to be that much different in most cases.
Why do you think you want a 28 instead of a 20? If you have spied a particular gun and you want that gun, and you are searching for justification, I will tell you to just go ahead and get it.
Good luck.

 

[ArmedBear]

Is it right to assume that if a 20 gauge can can bring down pheasant with a 1oz load, a 28 can also? Or are there other factors involved?

There are pheasant, and then there are pheasant. Game farm pheasant are sometimes hunted with #8 shot due to nearby residences, etc. However, wild pheasant are tougher, and #4,5 and 6 are common shot.

As the bore gets smaller, patterns with big shot degrade, and shot strings lengthen. 1 oz. of #4 through a 28 probably won't work quite the same as 1 oz. of #4 through a 20.

20 Gauge is a much better all-around choice IMHO. Most 28 Gauge guns are about the same weight as 20s. Brownings are actually heavier; Berettas weigh an ounce or two less.

With 28 Gauge, you'll pretty much have to reload if you shoot targets (or, if you have enough money to shoot factory 28s all the time, you have enough money to buy several guns anyway). Factory 28, even in the best of times for lead prices, is more than twice the cost of 20.

The smaller the hull, the harder it is to reload, and the shorter its reloading life. You won't find many 28 Gauge hulls lying around at the range, either. 28 shooters almost all reload, and they eagerly take empty hulls from the few who don't. 12 and 20 Gauge reload easily, but it's cheap enough that you really don't need to care.

With shotguns, it's really the gun that matters, more than the shell in it. A few 28s really offer something special (the Ruger Red Label and Remington Wingmaster 28 Gauge guns are a lot lighter and quicker than the 20 Gauge versions). Most don't, until you get into the really high-end stuff.

A shotguns is like a golf club. It's the way it handles that matters, more than anything.

I think that 12 Gauge is downright philistine for some applications. For Trap, and to start out shooting Skeet, though, I wouldn't shoot anything else. (Okay, I sometimes have shot Trap with my 16 Gauge double, but only for testing and practice.)

Trap moves slow and smooth; Skeet moves fast and smooth. A small, light gun is snappy, which is great for quail, but a serious handicap when learning to swing through the target well. It's not the payload that's the handicap; it's the gun.

And no matter what you think now, if you're missing half your Trap targets, it won't be fun for long.

I've seen 28s and even .410s at the Trap range. Generally, they were in the hands of a couple of VERY skilled shooters with 30+ years of experience, challenging each other to a contest. Guys who score more 25s in a day than most people ever shoot still had a hard time shooting American Trap with little guns.

If you don't want a 12, the 20 really offers the most: a light gun, 3" chambers for steel shot when needed, and wide and cheap ammo availability for targets and birds.

28 only offers a light gun, and that's not a plus for most of your purposes.

That's my take. It's worth every penny you paid for it.

 

[oneounceload]

I have reloaded some of my hulls in my 28's well over a dozen times each - I load them until stuff starts falling out of them.

For clays, a 28 on a 20 frame sporting 30 or 32 inch barrels is ideal - no whippiness, great balance, mild recoil, and the targets get smoked. Browning, Beretta, CG all make good guns in that realm. In the hunting field where walks are long and shots are few, a gauge-sized frame 28 weighing about 5.5 pounds is a joy to carry.

My favorite 5-stand and woods sporting clay gun is my 28 - can shoot it all day long and it is a lot of fun......(plus you have a built-in excuse when you miss compared to the big bores! )

Try a few out and see what YOU think

 

[chas08]

I aquired a 28ga later in life, after I had aquired most of the other common gauges and I love it, for dove. But I have to agree with some of the previous posts. A 20ga will be cheaper to feed and easier to find ammo for. Since it's your first shotgun stay with the more common gauges and add on from there.

 

[ArmedBear]

Let me not be misunderstood: 28 Gauge is great for some things. There are good reasons they're made and bought.

In the hunting field where walks are long and shots are few, a gauge-sized frame 28 weighing about 5.5 pounds is a joy to carry.

Quite true. And not readily available much below the $3000 mark, with the excpetion of $1500-2000 alloy-frame Franchis, which probably aren't the best choice for pounding away at the range.

 

[Dr. Tad Hussein Winslow]

In the hunting field where walks are long and shots are few, a gauge-sized frame 28 weighing about 5.5 pounds is a joy to carry.

Quite true. And not readily available much below the $3000 mark,

The Stevens 612 GoldWing SxS 28 gauge is scaled and only weighs 5.4 lbs. Actual street full retail new price will come in at just under $600.

CZ has one too - the scaled CZ ringneck in 28 ga, 26" bbls, is 5.7 lbs, just a smidge over 5.5.

 

[ArmedBear]

Do you own one of these?

I'm not big on Turkish guns. Too many problems for too many years. But I could change my mind if I ever knew someone who had a really good experience.

The new ones could be much-improved. Don't know anyone with enough rounds through them to make any judgment.

I have known people who have put a good number of rounds through the Mossberg Khans. The guns have all broken.

Don't know about Huglu (CZ) now. The old Huglus had the same rep as the Khans: not good.

 

[Dr. Tad Hussein Winslow]

I can't say if they're really good, even though I have some, because I haven't put enough rounds through them - just saying that they're available and they're scaled and inexpensive.

I have a 20 ga, 20" CZ/Huglu "Durango" SxS short shotgun (single trigger like the Ringneck), and a 28 ga, 26" Stevens 512 Goldwing O/U, but I've never even shot the latter yet. Got a few doves with the Durango last year.

The 612 Goldwing SxS are newer and only $100 more retail than the O/Us from Stevens. Both are scaled for all 4 gauges, and manufactured specifically to Savage's specifications by a Turkish firm. I'm thinking of getting a 20 ga in the Stevens 612 SxS. I guess the jury will be out for some time on these; they're a lot less $$ than even the CZs, but then again, don't have the fit/finish & touches either. The 512 feels nice to handle though.

http://www.savagearms.com/st_512.htm

http://www.savagearms.com/st_612.htm

 

[PJR]

For clays, a 28 on a 20 frame sporting 30 or 32 inch barrels is ideal - no whippiness, great balance, mild recoil, and the targets get smoked.

X2. I have an o/u that fits that description with 32" barrels and it's a great gun. I've also used the gun for preserve pheasants and it did just fine.

As for trap, when I first acquired my o/u I ran my first 25 at 16 yard trap. If you put the pellets in the right place it will do the job.

It probably wouldn't be my recommendation for a first shotgun either but it's more than adequate for the purposes mentioned in the original post.

 

[Guvnor]

Thanks for all the help guys.

There is a reason why im considering a 28 over the 20. Im recovering from a recent shoulder injury which makes me kinda nervous about 20 gauge recoil.

How much worse does the 20 kick than the 28? For instance, if you had a remington 1100 in both 20 and 28 gauge...would there be a significant difference in recoil?

If the 20 in a semi auto doesnt kick much more than a 28, maybe it would be a better choice.

 

[oneounceload]

One of my 28's is an 1100. Because of the light 25" barrel, I had to add an 8oz mag cap weight from Jim's Eye and Ear. Not only did it smooth out my swing, but that 8oz helped even more in recoil absorption. It has now become my "what I'm gonna shoot when I'm 80" gun. Weighs about 7-1/2 to 8 lbs, gas action, shooting 28 gauge shells.......Talk about low recoil!......

 

[Scoupe]

How much worse does the 20 kick than the 28? For instance, if you had a remington 1100 in both 20 and 28 gauge...would there be a significant difference in recoil?

As long as you're not talking about an older standard frame 20, the 28 would have less recoil between 2 1100 LT framed guns.

One can also tame recoil through adding weight to the gun and shooting lower recoiling loads. For an all-around gun I'd go that route on a standard frame 1100 20g over the 28g, of course depending on how the damaged shoulder tolerates it.

 

[Snarlingiron]

A buddy of mine has a Beretta AL390, an Ithaca M900, and a Remington 1100, all in 20 ga. We just did a side by side comparison last week end. He is having back surgery today, and wanted to figure out which recoiled the least so he can get back to shooting after his recovery.

The 1100 also has a Limbsaver pad on it, but it won hands down. After shooting my A390 12 ga with a plain rubber pad, it felt like almost nothing. He is convinced that he will be able to shoot it after the surgery with no problems.\

I have no 28 ga experience.

 

[Guvnor]

lots of helpful answers, thanks again guys.

 

[ArmedBear]

How much worse does the 20 kick than the 28? For instance, if you had a remington 1100 in both 20 and 28 gauge...would there be a significant difference in recoil?

The 1100 is known for absorbing recoil. That or a Beretta 390/3901/391 in 20 has very little perceived recoil with regular loads. A gas-operated semiauto with a soft recoil pad is about the most comfortable gun to shoot, recoil-wise.

That said, gun fit really does impact how your body responds to recoil and how shooting the gun feels.

Honestly, if you want a gun that doesn't kick much, consider a 12 Gauge but with reduced loads. 7/8 oz. in an average-sized 12 Gauge feels like nothing, but patterns really well. You can buy them, or load them -- in fact, they're a bargain to load now that lead's come down in price again, since they use less lead and powder than standard 12 Gauge loads.

Olympic Trap is shot with 12 Gauge guns loaded with 24 grams of shot (6/7 ounces). Patterns are actually superior to heavier 12 Gauge loads.

Most 20 and 28 Gauge guns are pretty light relative to 12 Gauge guns. That's why we like 'em in the field: they're quick to point and easy to carry. But that also means that the smaller gauges can hammer your shoulder just as hard as a 12, even with lighter payloads. My little 20 Gauge O/U quail gun has snappy recoil, different from but no lighter than a 12. Felt recoil depends on gun weight, as well as other things.

 

[Virginian]

I have a 20 and a 28 1100, and I used to have SxSs in both gauges too. Because I use a little bit hotter loads in the 28, relatively speaking, and it is a little lighter with the 25" instead of the 28" barrel, I think the 28 usually kicks a hair more than the 20, but neither of them kick much at all. Also, my LT20 is a Magnum receiver, even though I usually have the 2-3/4" barrel on it, so it has a recoil pad on the stock, and with either one I would suggest you get one of those if you have had surgery. A good recoil pad makes a big difference on any gun.
Good luck.

 

[jojo200517]

In my opinion your only real drawback as some have mentioned is going to be availability and price of ammo. If I can see kids new to shooting hit trap and heaven forbid sporting clay shots with .410's then i'm sure you will be fine shooting clays with a 28 gauge. You'll definitely be fine shooting it on skeet field, they use them in sub gauge competition's all the time. If you plan on shooting trap from the handicap positions it might be a bit of a long shot but i'm by no way saying it can't be done just might be a small bit more of a challenge.

 

[Scoupe]

Because I use a little bit hotter loads in the 28, relatively speaking, and it is a little lighter with the 25" instead of the 28" barrel, I think the 28 usually kicks a hair more than the 20, but neither of them kick much at all.

I agree, sort of. I reload my 28g with Longshot. Those loads feel "snappy" and are loud. I reload 20g with Universal and feel I get pushed harder, but not as violently. Hard to explain...

 

[Hungry Seagull]

My wife uses a Mossberg 500 bantam with a PAST Shoulder pad on her body over the shirt when shooting. That combined with remington managed recoil buck hammer slugs reduce the total recoil down to equal the handgun if that.

I fire the durn thing without any kind of pad to burn off her buckhammers left in the tube. I hardly feel it.

But I break out MY Past PAD when loading the same gun with Brenneke slugs, that thing will bark, kick and produce fire bleching downrange.

There is a different between ammuntion that leaves a 20 gauge gun at 1200 feet per second with a little energy and one that leaves at 1475 feet per second with a hell of alot more energy. (Heavier shot too...)

There is a day in the future spouse will be told by doctor no more shooting due to her bones. But for now, she is doing well and holding her own without discomfort or pain.

We are looking into her muscles in the arm because they tire after a few rounds.

When I compare her Remington Buckhammers to my Speer handgun gold dots hollows, the numbers are not that far apart. I think the feel is the same with both weapons to my hand.

 

[Snarlingiron]

Honestly, if you want a gun that doesn't kick much, consider a 12 Gauge but with reduced loads.

I would love to try the 12 ga 7/8 oz loads, but I have been looking for a year in my area, and just haven't found any. I have seen Dave McCracken recommend them a number of times too, but no 7/8 oz loads around here.

I suppose I could order some, but with freight this becomes an expensive proposition.

 

[FLNT4EVR]

I recently purchased a 28 ga barrel for my H&R ,and I love it. What a great small game getter .I buy my shells on the net from Able's ammo,Rio brand 1oz #6 loads for $8.99 a box.

 

[Gordon]

No steel shot 28 guage loads I'm aware of.I decides to skip the 28 guage after having a Citori for a few years.I still pick up and swing a 28 guage 870 or Franchi when I see one thou...