2nd range trip of the model 19

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roval

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i am glad i got this gun..i shoot it much better than the gun i traded it in for. i put in a 13 lb rebound spring from wolff(left over from before) yesterday and left the factory hammer spring in place. it lightened up the trigger pull. i could shoot da at my 25 yrd gong single handed both left and right fairly consistently.

3 cylinders of wadcutters at 10 yrds. 20210603_174645_copy_1547x1026.jpg
 
roval said:
i am glad i got this gun..i shoot it much better than the gun i traded it in for. i put in a 13 lb rebound spring from wolff(left over from before) yesterday and left the factory hammer spring in place. it lightened up the trigger pull. i could shoot da at my 25 yrd gong single handed both left and right fairly consistently.

3 cylinders of wadcutters at 10 yrds.View attachment 1002584
Click to expand...
Nicely done :thumbup:. It sure looks like you’ve taken a shine to that Model 19, they are certainly one of my favorite S&W guns. Bill Jordan was certainly a savant when he gave his recommendations to S&W’s Carl Hellstrom about building the perfect lawmans revolver. I think Bill and Carl knocked it out of the park with the 19/66 :).

I’m glad to hear about the rebound spring improving the trigger. The other day I ordered 5 sets of Wolff spring kits so I can improve the triggers on some of my K frames, I can’t wait to get them in and try them out :).

Keep it up, those targets are looking great :thumbup:.

Stay safe.
 
i really like it. unfortunately, i had added more " character" as i finished cleaning it this morning. there were some raised areas like the reverse of pitting on the side plate so i tried seeing if it would buff out with a lead remover cloth. now that area looks lighter

i just kept saying to myself " it's already bought used with a lot of blemishes and it won't affect the way it shoots".
 
roval

I have found Flitz does a great job of removing rust, tarnish, and built up dirt and grime from any gun finish, including bluing, without any harm to the finish. Just need a little bit on a clean cotton cloth and just lightly work it in on the affected area of the gun. It will clean the surface of whatever was on it, will not remove the bluing, and will leave behind a protective coating where it was used.

I cleaned both of these Rugers with Flitz and it gave their bluing back some of the luster that they formerly had.
aqxP8Ak.jpg
Xiuit6Z.jpg
 
Lots of folks mistakenly think Flitz is an abrasive. It isn’t, but somehow it really works wonders on tough-to-clean up metals.

I’ll clean and polish up my stainless revolvers’ cylinder faces on rare occasions, when I do Flitz takes the carbon rings right off :thumbup:.

Stay safe.
 
Riomouse911

I have a U.S. Model 1898 Krag Jorgensen that I sent out to have it refinished (it had been a former Veteran's Organization parade rifle for many years and had been bright chrome plated). When I got the rifle back from the refinishing place I was greatly disappointed to find instead of a nice rust bluing job, they did some sort of matte bluing that looked like some sort of black wrought iron fence! So while trying to decide where to go with it next to be refinished again, I thought I would try some Flitz on it, just to see what would happen. To my total amazement it actually polished the bluing giving a bit of shine in the process!
pkcoRbw.jpg
WZGIOgz.jpg
 
bannockburn said:
Riomouse911

I have a U.S. Model 1898 Krag Jorgensen that I sent out to have it refinished (it had been a former Veteran's Organization parade rifle for many years and had been bright chrome plated). When I got the rifle back from the refinishing place I was greatly disappointed to find instead of a nice rust bluing job, they did some sort of matte bluing that looked like some sort of black wrought iron fence! So while trying to decide where to go with it next to be refinished again, I thought I would try some Flitz on it, just to see what would happen. To my total amazement it actually polished the bluing giving a bit of shine in the process!
View attachment 1002713
View attachment 1002714
Click to expand...
My Dad had a 3,000,000 series M1Garand done up to be one of the parade rifles years ago: high polish/gloss bluing, high gloss stock, jeweled bolt and a high polished stainless gas tube. To me it looks a bit too fancy, but he likes the look of high gloss long arms so it fit his taste.

Back when he had it done the M1’s and other WWII surplus guns were only a few bucks a copy and sold by the armful. We all know what nice, unaltered specimens cost now :eek:. Today it would be considered sacreligious to alter a Garand like that :(.

I’m considering having it depolished, reparkerized and set back in an oiled walnut stock... maybe someday I’ll make it whole again. :)

Your Krag looks fantastic, the Flitz paste worked some magic on that bluing for sure! Nice job :thumbup:.

Stay safe.
 
Add me to the list of those who really like Flitz. I've cleaned up many a worn looking gun with nothing more than a little Flitz on my fingertip, and an old undershirt. Top it off with a coat or two of Renaissance Wax. They might not look new again, but they'll look a lot better. It has never damaged anything I used it on. I suppose if you went nuts with an electric buffer of some kind you could, but by hand? Well, I'm way to lazy to even think about working that hard.

Oh by the way. Nice Model 19. I suppose the 19 is my favorite S&W. I'm down to just two now, but that's plenty. I've got a 19-4, in what appears to be unfired outside the factory condition, with the box, papers, tools etc., and a 19-9 that just shoots lights out.
 
Jim Watson
Looks good now. How is the bore? Lots of these ceremonial rifles were shot with corrosive primed blanks and never cleaned.
Click to expand...

The bore was in great shape; that was one of the reasons I decided to restore the rifle. It also had a heavily varnished finish on the wood furniture. It took me a long time but I lightly sanded it and then used steel wool to get it all off. I then refinished it with a mixture of 3 different stains that was recommended to me by a gunsmith friend of my Dad's. He said it was the closest finish he could come up with in terms of replicating the original finish.
 
roval said:
i really like it. unfortunately, i had added more " character" as i finished cleaning it this morning. there were some raised areas like the reverse of pitting on the side plate so i tried seeing if it would buff out with a lead remover cloth. now that area looks lighter

i just kept saying to myself " it's already bought used with a lot of blemishes and it won't affect the way it shoots".
Click to expand...

Yeah, you gotta be careful with those lead removal cloths on bluing. I learned that on an old Blackhawk I had years ago (and still kick myself for selling). The finish was all messed up on it but the muzzle bluing wasn’t until I used patches of lead removal cloths in the bore to remove leading that some cheap factory ammo left behind. I got the lead out but the patches also removed some of the muzzle bluing.
It really didn’t matter much as the rest of the gun only had about 50% of its bluing anyway so it was a good gun to learn that lesson on.

@bannockburn Thanks for the tip on Flitz. I wasn’t sure about using it on bluing. :thumbup:
 
I've used patches cut from a lead wipe away cloth for cleaning leading from barrels for years. I never noticed any finish wear, but I did cut the patches so they just fit the bore. I also find them really useful for cleaning the crud from the chamber/charge holes on 22's. Especially S&W 22's that seem to get crudded up fast.
 
Pat Riot
Thanks for the tip on Flitz. I wasn’t sure about using it on bluing.
Click to expand...

Glad to be of help. I got a great deal on the Ruger Blackhawk partially because I think it was in kind of a neglected state when I found it at a gun show. Flitz cleaned it right up and made the bluing really shine! The Ruger Single Six was a gift from a very good friend of mine as he bought it used and took it with him when he was checking on his trap lines. Needless to say it also benefitted from just using a little bit of Flitz on it.
 
CajunBass said:
I've used patches cut from a lead wipe away cloth for cleaning leading from barrels for years. I never noticed any finish wear, but I did cut the patches so they just fit the bore. I also find them really useful for cleaning the crud from the chamber/charge holes on 22's. Especially S&W 22's that seem to get crudded up fast.
Click to expand...

The patches I cut were a bit large and I forced them into the muzzle. That was my error.
 
Confessing ignorance: I have never used “lead removal cloth”, cannot find it on Midway’s website. Google shows lead removal hand wipes - are those what you folks are talking about?
 
roval

I have always used the paste version of Flitz. One tube will go a long way because you don't need a lot of it when you're using it. I originally bought it years ago to clean and polish my nickel plated Colt Combat Commander.
 
I bought a box of those lead wipe away cloths on ebay I guess it was once. I needed one, so I bought twenty or however many were in the box. I don't think I've used to two or maybe three over the last several years. Now I only shoot plated bullets, so I don't have to worry about leading the barrel, and once I got the 22's all cleaned up, they stay pretty clean with just normal cleaning.

But I've got 'em if anything ever comes up. :)

The Flitz I use comes in a tube about like toothpaste. Don't get them mixed up. The liquid stuff would no doubt work just as well. An old GF of mine collected silver tea pots. She used the liquid Flitz on them and never said anything negative about it.
 
S&W M19s are good range buddies of mine for decades, only the third from the left is a fairly recent addition.

SW-19s.jpg
 
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