300 win mag effective range on moose

Status
Not open for further replies.
jim,

I don't think this came here for advice it looks like he came here for permission.
 
Well he ain't gonna get it from me. I see a 3 legged moose trying to get though winter.

BTW my .358 Norma will do anything your .330 Dakota will do:p
 
@shaggy430: The A-Max is a hollowpoint with a plastic filler, the MatchKing, a hollowpoint without the filler. You should see what they do to a 230# Mule Deer, I guess I shouldn't hunt with those then. Glad you told me before I did something dumb...

A mule deer is not a moose.

From Hornady's website (referring to A-max)

•These bullets are not recommended for hunting medium and large game.

Here's the link: http://www.hornady.com/bullets
 
Last edited:
I would limit my shots to around 350-400 yards because that is all that I am comfortable shooting. Any further than that and i don't feel confident that I can make a clean shot. That is my effective range, yours may be further or less, only you can judge that. I feel confident that a 300 win mag is still effective at those ranges without much of a problem with some good bonded bullets.
 
BTW my .358 Norma will do anything your .330 Dakota will do

jim,

Yep the old Norma is a SWEET round I am going to have to have one someday!! But the .330 Dak does one thing your .358 can't. It has to use .330 brass from Dakota at like $40.00 per 20 rounds of BRASS!! And there is nothing that you can easily neck up or down to make it cheaper.

So there, my .330 Dak is WAY more expensive to play with than your .358 Norma!!

What do you and your stinking Norma have to say about that!?!:D;)
 
H&H-Pffff. You need to do better than that. .358 $42 per 20 empty brass-when you can get it. But yeah I can make it out of most anything with a belt on it.

Built it on a 1936 Win 70. How are those Dakota wanabe M70 actions working for ya?
 
M-97? I give up you got me. The "economical" version of the Dakota that sells for $3500 used?

I my .358 even more:p
 
Last edited:
M-97? I give up you got me. The "economical" version of the Dakota that sells for $3500 used?

Those are them, only they didn't used to sell for anywhere near that. I've got two of them and paid $1100 for one and under a grand for the other. I have no idea why they have sky rocketed in price in the last couple of years. They are a really well done rifle but I don't get the money they are commanding other than people are bug nut crazy because they say Dakota on them. There was a period about 6 years ago when they couldn't give the M-97's away. All of a sudden they've gone crazy. I'll tell you exactly what they are though, they are simply a re branded Beretta Mateo Mauser action.

The M-76 Dakota is based on the M-70. The M-97 is a round body action like a M-700 only with CRF a M-70 style trigger and a M-70 style safety. AKA Beretta Mateo.
 
I've got two of them and paid $1100 for one and under a grand for the other.

That seems like a lot of value at that price. At $3500, no.

I was unaware Dakota ever made a lower cost bolt then the 76. The lineage is confusing, apparently the early Berettas where marked Dakota. Well like you say its in the name.
 
Jim,

Yeah the M-97 is the M-76 is basically what the Vanguard is to the Mark V Weatherby.

They made several versions of the M-97, The light Weight Hunter and The Long Range Hunter and one stainless version that was called something like the All weather hunter. I've got a light weight in a .300 WM that is a really sweet little .300 with a 24" tube it's smooth as glass and weighs in at just under 7lbs. A really nice little sheep gun.

The other one that I have is a .330 Dak built on the long range hunter. Both of them shoot lights out and are smooth as silk. I got the .330 cheap because it had some weekend gunsmithing done to it, to "make it better" any way after I reblued, rebedded recrowned and rethreaded all the action screws it was back into top shape.

I really don't have much interest in the .330 but this thing was such a steal that I couldn't pass it up. I just love it when some goof ball takes a hack saw and a Dremel tool to an expensive rifle. I've picked up a couple of top dollar rifles that have been severely devalued by backyard gunsmithing. They are usually pretty easy to fix.
 
H&H-

it had some weekend gunsmithing done to it, to "make it better" any way after I reblued, rebedded recrowned and rethreaded all the action screws it was back into top shape.

Wow thats some weekend gunsmithing alright. As the cops say in the paper after a car wreak "alcohol may have been a contributing factor"
Similar story with the pre war M-70 I built the .358 on. Someone had "refinished" the stock, sanding all the checkering off in the process, and the barrel[30-06] was from a 1960 M70, Hence Zip collector value and I got it cheap.

Interesting enough, that 1960 barrel is 9 years newer then any pre-64 I own and the chamber is cut nowhere near as well as my early 50's-pre war guns. I think Winchester was going downhill well before the magic 1964 date. And to top it off it's a super grade barrel

Yeah your under 7 lb .300 WM with a full length 24" tube would be a keeper. I know I could use it.
Jim
 
Last edited:
""Moose are one of the easiest big game animals to get close to. Why is this even a question. Drop the 9 from 950 and you have the range your shot should be from."" quoted from first page


This is the first time I have seen the figure that high-950 yrads. Usually it is more in the 350-400 yard quote.

I suspect most of those 350 yard shots are probably more like 135 in actual practice.

How many places can one even see a moose at 950 yards?
 
For those of you hunting with that 300, are you having any luck with a 165 grain bullet? Or do I really need to be looking at the 180?

Oh and by the way here in Idaho you can easily find areas that could offer well over a mile for the shooter willing to take that kind of gamble on an animal.

Even though I really want to take a moose with my 54 cal I think they are the perfect archery animal, you only have to stay down wind of them to get incredibly close.
 
I have had fairly good luck with 165 grain SST loaded on the slower end of the .300 win mag spectrum. Mid range velocites and quicker the 180 grain accubond has been a great preformer in my rifles. Both of my .300's have 28" barrels and a 1:10 twist. The Hornady Interbond has also preformed very very well at the mid velocity range to high velocity loads.
 
I have a win Model 70 and I am not sure what the barrel length is or what the twist rate is. I don't see my self shooting beyond 300 yards.
 
I target shoot beyond 300 but have never found a need to shoot game beyond 200 yards. In my two rifles the 180's just seem to fly better at higher speeds than the 165's. It has nothing to do with trying to push for longer shots.
 
Well I have a lot of load development to do this summer. I decided to switch over to Hornady bullets and Varget for my 308, so will save a few of those 165's for the 300 and see what they can do. Do you mind sharing what loads you use. I usually work up to a suggested load in 1/2 grain increments till I get within a 1/2 and then I go to .2 grain increments.
 
Hornady match brass
WLRM primer
165 grain Hornady SST
68.5 grains RL-22
seated to cannelure nothing fancy

Through my Sendero they run average of 2874, and through the Encore they are just a touch slower 2865 average. typical 5 shot group of 1 3/16" with best group fired being .965" worst group at a touch over 2" with a hot dirty barrel. More than accurate enough for hunting.
 
Yup thanks for your input. I think I am going to try the IMR 7828 first but If I don't get what I want or like I am going to go for the Rel 22. The Rel 22 and the 7828 are probably the two most recommended powders.
 
I'm amazed over the past decades how hunters shot anything bigger than a coyote without these new technology bullets. Amazing... Incredible... one bullet for paper, one for tall game, one for short game, one for hairy animals, one for short haired buggers... what's a reloader to do?
 
why is ANYONE talking about a 950 yard shot at a moose? have you seen where a moose LIVES?! most of the time, unless you are on one shore of a lake, and the moose os on the opposite end, you will end up with a 20-80 yard shot. 950 yard shot is rediculous at best, and irresponsible at worst. the last thing i am going to want to do is try to get a moose out of the water. when i shoot, i want it to go down, NOW! having to track a wounded moose is going to be between a very dificult, to a very dangerous job. if it is still capable when you find it, you are going to be in serious trouble. do the aminmal right, and yourself a favor. be a responsible, respectable hunter and get a good, quick, clean, ethical, one shot kill. the 300 win mag is plenty capable of it, but not at 950 yards!
 
To many video games is why people think they need to shoot 950 yards on anything. I hear the same thing in NE Kansas and NW Missouri if you can't get within at least 100 yards of a whitetail around here your just lazy.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top