329 PD Problem

[Turk]

I recently purchased a Smith 239 PD for my woods carry gun. It is very accurate and being lite weight it wins hands down over my 629 Classic 5”. High end load are a little snappy but since I do not live in an area where animals can eat you I’ll carry 44 mag. loaded down with 200 gr. Gold Dots.

Something I’ve noticed is I get a lot powder residue on the top of the un-fluted part of cylinder and using H #9 solvent will not remove it. I get some on my 629 but it comes right off. Also directly in line with the sight screw and the metal spacer I’m getting round residue marks and within these marks it’s shinny looks to me there is a coating on the cylinder and a small area is coming off?? Anyone have any similar problems?

Turk

 

[pinkymingeo]

That's typical for the Ti cylinders. There are endless opinions on what to do about those flash marks. I remove them with a Tipton lead remover cloth.

 

[TexasRifleman]

Yep, my 386PD has the same marks on the cylinder. You can scrub and scrub and they will fade or do like I did and just give up and accept it

 

[ElectraGlideInBlue]

Flitz metal polish and another question or two.

I use a small amount of Flitz metal cleaner/polish. It is a non abrasive product that comes in a liquid or paste (like tooth paste). It gets almost all the residue off. Enough that you have to look hard to see the remaining.

I have used it on everything from parts on my Harley, jewelry, scratches on staneless frames and I hear the USSA uses it to clean and polish the bores of some rifles. Not verified, but I tried it on a couple of different barrels and they came out loking great. Shot great and were easier to clean later. No problems to date.

My 329 PD is comming up with light primer strikes more often than gives me comfort. A rude and dismissing S&W tech said it was the ammo. Yea...but every ammo I named was wrong and he couldn't reccomend the "right" ammo. He had me take the grips off and make sure the tension screw in the front strap was all the waqy in after he hung up, and it was.

I found a little silver pin in the bottom/back of the metal part of the grip, held in by the wooden grips. It has no apparent function. I noticed it when it fell out on my table and put it back in. It would only go in from one side (left?) but as far as I can see, it has no function.

As far as the light strikes go, they started after about 50 rounds and the ammo that did not fire in the 329 PD fired fine in my Taurus. Visually, the S&W firing pin has very little protrusion compared to other revolvers.

I guess I'll take a variety of ammo (again) next time and see if it is that sensitive...kind of scary if it is. I hope I don't have to send it to S&W. The first contact I had on the phone was miserable and I am not the type to spend my time debugging their problems. It is much easier to sell it off, being honest about the problem and take my losses, but the S&W customer service was very condescending. Much more than I anticipated.

Anyway, do any of you wheel gun guys have a suggestion? I shoot mostly 1911's and am trying to expand my horizons. The little pin in the frame is interesting.

 

[Wolfeye]

I don't own any revolvers with a titanium cylinder, but an acquaintance once talked about how he used automotive alumium/magnesium rim cleaner to get the residue off of his. I don't remember which brand.

Electraglideinblue, your problem sounded familiar and I found it mentioned on a post I read last week in another forum. The solution was this: "Take the grips off and make sure the strain screw that tensions the firing spring is all the way in. If it's backed out at all then that's your problem. " With luck, that's all your problem will turn out to be.

I'm surprized to hear people use the factory wooden grips with that gun. I'd heard that most people used x-frame grips instead.

 

[rcmodel]

I found a little silver pin in the bottom/back of the metal part of the grip, held in by the wooden grips. It has no apparent function.

Laynard attachment point, if you don't have grips that cover the backstrap.

rc

 

[ElectraGlideInBlue]

Strain screw and lanyard

Thanks to both Wolfeye and rcmodel for the responses. I did check the strain screw and it is all the way in. In fact that's how I discovered the small pin in the butt of the frame. I was hoping it was something as simple as the strain screw, but no I'm not that lucky. It is hard to believe the firing pin is protruding enough out of the bushing. Compared to my Taurus (I know it's fair) it is about half as far.

I am not sure about the pin in the hole in the butt of the grip. The fact that the pin just slides in loosely and falls out from only one side is strange. And why put a pin in the hole? Could it be a spare firing pin for the gun?

I'm feeling adventurous, so maybe I'll try calling S&W service and see if they are in a better mood. I update if anything develops.

Oh, and the wood grips are not particularly pleasant, but the look so much better!

 

[TexasRifleman]

Oh, and the wood grips are not particularly pleasant, but the look so much better!

Try some .44 Specials in that thing.
I don't shoot Magnums in it but with Specials the 329PD is one of my favorite revolvers.

It feels fantastic shooting a nice Special load, and you can load those up just about any way you want if you feel the need for more punch.
I put some smaller Kim Ahrends grips on it. They are nice when carrying, they don't seem to hang up on clothing as much.

Photo shows some Magnum Silvertips but that's just 'cause they are shiny and look nice

Notice the black marks that I gave up on as well

 

[rcmodel]

Look at the back of the grip strap.
Is there a U-shaped groove that the little pin intersects there?

Laynard attachment point.

It is not a spare firing pin!

rcmodel

 

[ElectraGlideInBlue]

It's going back (darn it)

Talked to a reasonable S&W rep today and he is sending me a return label so they can look at the firing pin protrusion. He said I shouldn't need to pick and choose any commercial ammo, it all should work. Wow, that makes sense!

I asked about the pin and he thought it was to keep the optional rubber grips positioned correctly, but I don't think so. I'll try to snap a picture before I send it. Better than me trying to explain it..

TexasRifleman, those wooden grips look great, like they've seen some honest use and handling. Just the way a good firearm should.

Thanks to all who took the time to respond. And I'm going to load up some .44 Specials and experiment with that load when the gun gets back. I checked at WallyWorld and no specials only Magnums. I have tried the Speer Gold Dot for Short Barrels from my local gun shop and those seemed to be less punishing.

I don't mind the recoil though. I have a Desert Eagle in .50 AE and a Taurus .44 Magnum in the 2" Tracker with the porting. I don't have the problem of people asking to try shooting them. If they do ask though, I accomodate their curiousity. Mom always said to share my toys. Usually once is enough.

I'll let you all know when I have something new.

 

[TexasRifleman]

I checked at WallyWorld and no specials only Magnums.

That's the downside of Specials for sure. Not much available and what is out there commercially loaded costs more than Magnums.

That's a shame.