theboyscout
Member
Has anyone ever heard of or found a 357 mag that could not or should not shoot 38+p rounds? I have always thought 357 mag could shoot, 357, 38 spl and 38+p. But I heard some guy say that +p isn't for all 357 mag.
But I heard some guy say that +p isn't for all 357 mag.
You might hear "some guy" say all kinds of stuff, but it ain't necessarily true.
Don't worry about shooting all the .38 Special +P you want in any .357 revolver. However, you might want to give the cylinder a good scrub from time to time in order to remove any build up from the shorter cartridge case.
You might hear "some guy" say all kinds of stuff, but it ain't necessarily true.
And what's wrong with that?I heard "some guy" once say in a gunshop: "You need a .45, even a hit in the pinky will kill 'em dead from the shock!" Joe
Just don't shoot flush with case 38's in a 357. They will shear out the indexing lug.
I know this to be fact. I did it to one.
You could, but you shouldn't....you can't load .38 special using .357 data, even if it will only be shot in a .357 gun.
Can you elaborate on this a bit more? I can't visualize how the bullet profile matters to the indexing lug.
Can you elaborate on this a bit more? I can't visualize how the bullet profile matters to the indexing lug.
Flush wadcutters are only as long as the case. Flat point NO taper.
The cylinders have no forcing cone.
So, a bullet that is to short, without a tapered bullet sticking out puts a lateral load on the cylinder
EVERY time you fire it, because the individual cylinder being fired will shear off a piece of
the flat bullet. EVERY TIME.
Not to mention jumping the gap, which puts more load on the cylinder.
Repeated side loading puts stress on the indexing lug, via movement with the cylinder
indexed and locked.
Heck, I wouldn't shoot flush wadcutters in a .38, much less flush .38's in a .357.
This is first hand experience. Been there, done that.
And it was a Ruger, one of the strongest in the industry along with Freedom Arms.
If a Ruger can't take, nothing can. I returned it. They sent me a brand new one. No questions asked.
Hope this helps.
I would hope "some guy" meant not to shoot +P 357 in a 357 not rated for +P. The 357 by design is much more powerful and produces much more pressure than any 38, so if it can safely shoot a 357, any 38 should be safe if loaded properly.
Flush wadcutters are only as long as the case. Flat point NO taper.
The cylinders have no forcing cone.
So, a bullet that is to short, without a tapered bullet sticking out puts a lateral load on the cylinder
EVERY time you fire it, because the individual cylinder being fired will shear off a piece of
the flat bullet. EVERY TIME.
Not to mention jumping the gap, which puts more load on the cylinder.
Repeated side loading puts stress on the indexing lug, via movement with the cylinder
indexed and locked.
Heck, I wouldn't shoot flush wadcutters in a .38, much less flush .38's in a .357.
This is first hand experience. Been there, done that.
And it was a Ruger, one of the strongest in the industry along with Freedom Arms.
If a Ruger can't take, nothing can. I returned it. They sent me a brand new one. No questions asked.
Hope this helps.