357 Mag. Gas Check or Coated??
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GeoDudeFlorida
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So many variables.
Short answer: it depends.
Long answer: it depends on the design of the bullet - flat base, bevel base, hollow base - the type of coating - enamel, polymer, copper wash, zinc wash, wax - and it depends on the base lead hardness - 8-10, 14-16, 18-22BHN - but generally the coating is just there to provide a barrier between the lead bullet and the hot gases to minimize melted lead transfer to the barrel bore.
Any coating that insulates will work up to a point. The bullet makers publish maximum velocities data for each bullet they make.
I have been using the MBC .357 Action grooveless 158 gr. SWC in my GP100. These bullets are Hitek 2 coated. I have not had any leading using CFE Pistol at 1014 fps or using H110 at 1208 fps. All loads from the Hodgdon website. I am shooting at paper so the CFE Pistol load is more fun for me to shoot.
earplug
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I used to shoot many full charges of 2400 using plain base cast bullets from a M-27, without any leading.
I have used powder coated 9MM bullets without any leading,
I have switched to powder coated bullets for my needs and have found them excellent due to less smoke, lube mess and the ability to use scrap lead.
I think powder coating will be found superior to gas checks.
I have used powder coated 9MM bullets without any leading,
I have switched to powder coated bullets for my needs and have found them excellent due to less smoke, lube mess and the ability to use scrap lead.
I think powder coating will be found superior to gas checks.
Seedy Character
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I loaded nothing but powder coated bullets in .357
95, 115, 140 & 158 gr from 750 to 1500 fps
95 gr @ 1500 is fun in coyotes
I have loaded powder coated bullets in .30-06 to 2600 fps. No problems. My buddy loads .223 to 2800 fps.
GC will never get here.
95, 115, 140 & 158 gr from 750 to 1500 fps
95 gr @ 1500 is fun in coyotes
I have loaded powder coated bullets in .30-06 to 2600 fps. No problems. My buddy loads .223 to 2800 fps.
GC will never get here.
Last week I shot two PCed bullets with near max loads in my 2" 357. My cast 125 RNFP with my PCing, heavy loads of WC820, and CFE Pistol, worked fine. Acme coated 158 gr, SWC over near max loads of WC820 also worked good. No PC or lead fouling...
I have also PCed some 30 cal cast bullets for use in my Garand and Mosin, also some for my 9mms. No problems...
I have also PCed some 30 cal cast bullets for use in my Garand and Mosin, also some for my 9mms. No problems...
AJC1
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I currently have complete faith in Ford light blue up to 2000fps. That's the fattest I've personally tested so it may perform beyond, I just haven't done it myself. Loads of bacon is running many different powders in 223 above my experience.
Let's say you and your brother and son in laws have revolvers and rifles in .357. You have grandkids especially the girls that shoot. I can make a coffee can of gas checked cast reloads that leave very little to no lead in all the different barrels using cww and tin nuggets. Plain base is more temperamental. From past experiences.
Riomouse911
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I’ve had a great deal of luck shooting cast-and-coated lead bullets for many years. I stated using them because I stepped away from being a team leader on our tactical team in 2018 and no longer was regularly using an outdoor range where I shot 15 qual courses annually (12 monthly and 3 trimester). Instead I was shooting monthly at a local indoor range (the 3 trimester quals were still mandatory). The smoke I was creating with my plain lead/lube loads wasn’t making me many friends indoors, so I first did plated, and now coated, bullets.
Brazos, Missouri Bullet, ACME, Ibedjiheads, Eggleston, The Blue Bullets and Bayou have all gone down range in handguns from .32 to heavy .45 Colt and (for those that offer the right bullets) rifles in .30-30, .35 Rem and .45/70 Marlin-loads with zero complaints.
Whether straight-sided and designed for coating or traditional “lube groove” bullet styles that are designed to hold lube but are instead coated, coated bullets have almost completely replaced the use of plain lead/lube ones that I load for my guns. (I’ll still load heavyweight gas checked bullets from Montana Bullet Works or heavyweight wadcutters from Matt’s bullets on occasion.)
Stay safe.
Brazos, Missouri Bullet, ACME, Ibedjiheads, Eggleston, The Blue Bullets and Bayou have all gone down range in handguns from .32 to heavy .45 Colt and (for those that offer the right bullets) rifles in .30-30, .35 Rem and .45/70 Marlin-loads with zero complaints.
Whether straight-sided and designed for coating or traditional “lube groove” bullet styles that are designed to hold lube but are instead coated, coated bullets have almost completely replaced the use of plain lead/lube ones that I load for my guns. (I’ll still load heavyweight gas checked bullets from Montana Bullet Works or heavyweight wadcutters from Matt’s bullets on occasion.)
Stay safe.
I’ve loaded plenty of the 18 brinnell bullets from Missouri without issue,
.357 Action grooveless 158 gr. SWC and MBC .357 Ranger 1 158 gr RNFP worked well with 13.7 gr 2400 for about 1270 fps out of a 6 inch barrel. I tested loads higher that seemed fine as well, but didn’t feel the need to push it.
.357 Action grooveless 158 gr. SWC and MBC .357 Ranger 1 158 gr RNFP worked well with 13.7 gr 2400 for about 1270 fps out of a 6 inch barrel. I tested loads higher that seemed fine as well, but didn’t feel the need to push it.
ArchAngelCD
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I would load a coated bullet over a gas checked bullet. You will probably save some money that way so why not. I also load a coated bullet in the .357 Mag without leading using 2400, W296 or HS-6. No leading when shot from my levergun either.
edwardware
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Your question indicates that you don't exactly know what question to ask. You need to skim Glen Fryxell, them you'll understand what to ask.
To generalize, a properly alloyed, sized (for the gun), and lubed 158gr cast bullet will perform well at the highest velocity a .357 handgun can push it. Same for a GC'd and/or PC'd bullet.
.357 rifles are somewhat more challenging. Lighter bullets might not be possible at max velocity. Predicting how it will go in your gun is impossible without more work on your part, namely slugging the bore and throats.
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GeoDudeFlorida
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This exactly! The lube/wax coating on the bullet and in the lube grooves, if there are any, can help improve accuracy and prevent vaporization of the alloy IF there are fit problems - a leaky base, failure to obturate completely, flaws in the bore/groove - but, basically, if the bullet fits the bore/grooves and is a hard enough alloy of the right composition, leading is not going to happen at the highest SAFE velocities for a handgun. Know your gun and know your alloys.
How about those making one load for a chair several revolvers and several rifles. That's why I turned to gas checks. If you have a bore scope you see the results. A coffee can of ammo for family to grab out of makes my life simpler. With my first revolver I did what you all are explaining so that's good advice for most.
AJC1
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Is hard enough the proper idea. I am currently of the opinion there is a proper range, soft enough to properly opterate, and hard enough to prevent shear and skidding. More of a happy middle area.
GeoDudeFlorida
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Well, if we're going to address EVERY potential and possible situation EVERY handloader might EVER experience, get ready for a very long and boring thread of, "What about me..." questions. So, to try and avoid every "What about me..." question, I'll summarize my previous answer as follows: IF you're fitting to multiple bores (I do, everything from Taurus 66 to Colt 3-5-7 and Ruger Blackhawk) plus rifles (yup) then using different bullets for different guns means you either get to reload, box, label, and stash your ammo in lots intended for specific guns (I do that) or learn how to make compromise loads that aren't very good at any one thing but go bang reliably and fairly accurately in anything - IOW high quality blasting ammo for making noise and popping cans (I do that too). If you want a load that will turn your long-barrel, single-action revolver into a 50-yard deer gun, you aren't going to get there making generic blasting ammo that works as well in a Ruger LCR as it does in a Rossi '94. I hope that makes sense and answers the question?
Thanks, no question just statement. I'm here because there is no one to talk reloading to in my circle. Now for hunting hand loaded FTX. NOT trimmed back like in the hornady book fits all our revolvers and feeds slick into lever guns. Sorry to annoy you. Love the posts though
GeoDudeFlorida
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Not at all annoyed! The, "What about me..." questions get asked a LOT and the three solutions I've had in place for years seem to work okay for me and a few others I've seen post similar advice: blasting ammo for family fun and the generic "X-Caliber" gun is not the hottest or tightest, it's the cheapest for the best quality. Hunting and SD ammo is different and needs to be labeled different, made different, different components, higher cost, but the quality HAS to be the same! No matter what! No responsible shooter would set out a coffee can full of 170gr. Sierra JHC/JHP with a near-max load of H-110 for family to load up in everything from LCR's to lever guns. That's just not funny. On the other hand, it's not a lot of fun shooting 145gr. light special magnum (thanks Harry
) coated LSWC's at 25yds. for bowling pins through a 686+. I'd rather save the money and use a pellet rifle.No, I'm not annoyed, I thought you were telling me my advice was too generic.
anothernewb
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using hitek 158 SWC designs from both MBC and brazos and they take 16.5 grains of H110 out of the GP100 and Henry big boy with zero issues.
GeoDudeFlorida
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EX: from my .44 loading collections -
Great for plinking in a RSBH or RM77/44.
Great for hunting in a RSBH or RM77/44.
BIG difference in cost, accuracy and range but NO compromise in quality.
Great for plinking in a RSBH or RM77/44.
Great for hunting in a RSBH or RM77/44.
BIG difference in cost, accuracy and range but NO compromise in quality.
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