.357 noob question

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Mark_Mark

Mark_Mark

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New to .357 mag, I just got a replica Winchester 1873.

quick questions:

1: Is there a difference between Lee FCD and Tapper die? Should I avoid the Tapper die, it’s available but the FCD is not.

2: can you load .357 mag with 9mm bullets?
 
question 3:

Can I use 9mm FCD for .357 mag? looks almost the same size
 
1. I'm not sure what a "Tapper" die is? Do you mean "Taper" die? You normally want to roll crimp revolver rounds. The FCD for the .357 is a roll crimp die. Your die set comes with a seating/crimping die, and that is all you really need.

2. Yes, you can use 9mm bullets, sometimes with a reduction in accuracy (though they work well in my Coonan with no loss of accuracy). When I use non-cannelure bullets in .357, I do taper crimp them...but those I'm generally loading for a Coonan 1911 .357.

3. The 9mm FCD is a taper crimp die....Lee FCD's for revolver cartridges = roll crimp, Lee FCD's for pistol cartridges = taper crimp. You're still better off using the seating/crimp die that came with your die set. I personally prefer to seat and crimp in different steps, but that's just me.
 
Use the seater/roll crimp die that comes in your set. I would test for bullet set back before I load very many.
 
Bfh_auto said:
Use the seater/roll crimp die that comes in your set. I would test for bullet set back before I load very many.
Click to expand...
don’t have the set yet, Midway only has the 3 die set and no Lee FCD. But they have a taper crimp die for .357. I’ll just get the taper die and when the FCD is available get that later.

9mm in .357! that’s great! I have a bunch of 147g
 
Mark_Mark said:
don’t have the set yet, Midway only has the 3 die set and no Lee FCD. But they have a taper crimp die for .357. I’ll just get the taper die and when the FCD is available get that later.

9mm in .357! that’s great! I have a bunch of 147g
Click to expand...
The standard 3 die set has a roll crimp in the seater die. I've been using one of those for nearly 20 years.
You don't need the factory crimp die or the taper crimp die for standard loading.
The taper crimp was designed for semi auto cartridges that headspace off the neck.
 
Bfh_auto said:
The standard 3 die set has a roll crimp in the seater die. I've been using one of those for nearly 20 years.
You don't need the factory crimp die or the taper crimp die for standard loading.
The taper crimp was designed for semi auto cartridges that headspace off the neck.
Click to expand...
that solves that! Thank You!
 
Load two dummy’s with the projectile you want to use, at the length you’re intending to load at, and check for feeding/function BEFORE you load 100 and find out the rounds won’t feed through your gun. ;)

Been there. Luckily they shot in a revolver just fine so it wasn’t a total waste.

Stay safe.
 
Riomouse911 said:
Load two dummy’s with the projectile you want to use, at the length you’re intending to load at, and check for feeding/function BEFORE you load 100 and find out the rounds won’t feed through your gun. ;)

Been there. Luckily they shot in a revolver just fine so it wasn’t a total waste.

Stay safe.
Click to expand...
definitely, I normally do 10, fill the tube (or mag) up and check for deformation and function . THANKS!
 
Herman B said:
Def a roll crimp. Bullets get pushed around by loading gate, mag tube spring, recoil and feed ramp. Proper ignition may also come into play.
Click to expand...
Oooh yeah! will be roll crimp these bad boys.

I got 2,000 -4,000 cases coming in too

THANKS!
 
Mark_Mark said:
$62 + 10% tax = No Way man! Not for Lee

Mudway is $32.99 for the 3 set and and if you buy the Lee reloading manual for $9. It’s free shipping. THANKS FOR THE LINK.

can you use .357 die for .38…. last time I shot .38, it felt like a bb gun
Click to expand...
It primarily depends on the adjustment of the flaring die and the seater.
Mine was stamped 38/357. I don't know if they make a 357 only.
 
K.I.S.S.! Forget the FCDs and taper crimp dies (I tried one FCD and it ruined my perfectly sized bullets so it now lives in a land fill). For a new reloader I suggest separating the seat/crimp steps (seat all bullets, switch to a roll crimp die, crimp all rounds). Using two steps givs the newer reloader better control of both steps and is easier to learn (even some of us old guys still sepatate the steps, I do.). For your revolver rounds/bullets, seat them to the crimp groove or cannelure and roll crimp and don't worry about book OAL. In 1969 I looked at the first 38 Special bullets I loaded and figgered the bullet designer knew where to locate the groove/cannelure so I used them, and ignored book OAL. I have reloaded all my revolver bullets this way and never had a problem; none stuck out of the chamber and there were no "high pressures fom too deep seating". (3, 38 Specials, 1, 357 Magnum, 3, 44 Magnums, 1, 44 Magnum carbine, 1, 45 Colt).

Lee offers a "Bullet Seating (only) Die" that has crimping capibilities. Inexpensive and the seating stem can be backed off and die used for crimping only https://leeprecision.com/bul-seat-die-38spl-357mag.html. An alternative crimp die is the Lee Collet Crimp. I have one for my 44 Magnums and it works quite well https://www.titanreloading.com/prod...l-reloading-dies/lee-collet-style-crimp-dies/. Die https://leeprecision.com/bul-seat-die-38spl-357mag.html. A bit more expensive, but an excellent tool and one I have used for many years on mostly my magnumhandloads, is the Redding Profile Crimp https://www.redding-reloading.com/online-catalog/31-profile-crimp-dies ...
 
mdi said:
K.I.S.S.! Forget the FCDs and taper crimp dies (I tried one FCD and it ruined my perfectly sized bullets so it now lives in a land fill). For a new reloader I suggest separating the seat/crimp steps (seat all bullets, switch to a roll crimp die, crimp all rounds). Using two steps givs the newer reloader better control of both steps and is easier to learn (even some of us old guys still sepatate the steps, I do.). For your revolver rounds/bullets, seat them to the crimp groove or cannelure and roll crimp and don't worry about book OAL. In 1969 I looked at the first 38 Special bullets I loaded and figgered the bullet designer knew where to locate the groove/cannelure so I used them, and ignored book OAL. I have reloaded all my revolver bullets this way and never had a problem; none stuck out of the chamber and there were no "high pressures fom too deep seating". (3, 38 Specials, 1, 357 Magnum, 3, 44 Magnums, 1, 44 Magnum carbine, 1, 45 Colt).

Lee offers a "Bullet Seating (only) Die" that has crimping capibilities. Inexpensive and the seating stem can be backed off and die used for crimping only https://leeprecision.com/bul-seat-die-38spl-357mag.html. An alternative crimp die is the Lee Collet Crimp. I have one for my 44 Magnums and it works quite well https://www.titanreloading.com/prod...l-reloading-dies/lee-collet-style-crimp-dies/. Die https://leeprecision.com/bul-seat-die-38spl-357mag.html. A bit more expensive, but an excellent tool and one I have used for many years on mostly my magnumhandloads, is the Redding Profile Crimp https://www.redding-reloading.com/online-catalog/31-profile-crimp-dies ...
Click to expand...
I like to do seating and crimping in 2 steps. Better control and QC. I bought the 3 die Devil Lee set. We will see what happens, if it’s not good then I’ll get a Hornady 38/357 set.

THANKS FOR THE WRITE UP!
 
Mark_Mark said:
$62 + 10% tax = No Way man! Not for Lee

Mudway is $32.99 for the 3 set and and if you buy the Lee reloading manual for $9. It’s free shipping. THANKS FOR THE LINK.

can you use .357 die for .38…. last time I shot .38, it felt like a bb gun
Click to expand...


Just showing you the 4 dies set. Yes, Amazon is expensive (its from LEE) but it is in stock.

As I mentioned the 38 special dies are the ones you want. They do 357, not the other way.
 
Rule3 said:
Just showing you the 4 dies set. Yes, Amazon is expensive (its from LEE) but it is in stock.

As I mentioned the 38 special dies are the ones you want. They do 357, not the other way.
Click to expand...
not the other way around! Aaaahh man! someone could have told a brother! Oooh well, I like having 2 of everything anyways, .38 special here I come!

BTW: look at who the sellers is on Amazon. Amazon will sell at normal prices but 3P (third person) sellers will sell at any price

5A815876-76EE-4CB3-BAE2-FB19BC234441.jpeg 011A17A2-AF7C-486C-81C8-B2F50D5F2791.jpeg
 
Bfh_auto said:
The standard 3 die set has a roll crimp in the seater die. I've been using one of those for nearly 20 years.
You don't need the factory crimp die or the taper crimp die for standard loading.
The taper crimp was designed for semi auto cartridges that headspace off the neck.
Click to expand...
Allow me to disagree just a bit.

From the Lee Precision website:
https://leeprecision.com/reloading-dies/hand-gun-dies/taper-crimp-die/

"The Lee Taper Crimp Die is hardened steel designed to overcome crimp problems caused by poor die design. These dies offer little or no advantage when used with 1986 or newer Lee Dies as the crimp angle is already a modified taper crimp. Jacketed bullets must have a crimp groove."

The Lee crimp die in the Lee sets is actually a taper crimp die. Even in the sets for 38 Special, e357 Mag, 44 Mag revolvers.

I had this conversation with the tech CSR at Lee some years ago. In essence, he said that if you want a light taper crimp, it will do that. Screw the die in tighter, it will roll crimp.
It's a modified angle in the crimp head, it increases as it gets tighter.

Another Lee first. Two crimps available from one die.

I have, use, and like the Lee taper crimp dies.

I have, use, and like the Lee Factory Crimp Dies FOR RIFLES, which are completely different than the FCD for handgun cartridges.

I have had, and no longer have, Lee FCDs for handgun cartridges.
 
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