lee 38spl dies.

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Axis II

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question for you guys.

Lee deluxe 38/357 dies will they seat a 125gr flat point berrys plated without issues?

also I see this set comes with a FCD. is this a roll crimp FCD or taper like 9mm?

cabelas has them on sale for $40 along with starline brass. I think its about time I start loading for my s&w 642.
 
They should work with any 38/357 sized bullet.

Lee's revolver dies come with a roll crimp.

You should be able to seat/roll-crimp with the third die OR seat only with the third die and apply roll crimp with the FCD. Lots of folks only use a 3 die setup. There are threads here on THR discussing the pro's & cons of using the FCD.

I'll leave that recommendation to those with more reloading experience.

For what it's worth, I load .44mag with Lee dies and I do use the FCD. I seat (and remove the bell) only, no crimp, with die 3 and apply roll crimp with the FCD.
 
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I use 3 die set for 44mag in a rifle and give it a good crimp cause my powders slower. only die set they had was the 4 for $40 so I figured better jump on it while on sale.
 
I have loaded the Berry's 125 gr. FN with no problems. Using the FCD, I used just the slightest crimp to undo the bell-mouth. The FCD will do a roll crimp, but you don't want to do that with plated bullets.

The Lee 3 die set for 357 & 38 Spl. are different sets.

http://leeprecision.com/3-die-set-38sp-carbide.html

http://leeprecision.com/3-die-set-357-mag-carbide.html

Lee states that you can use the 38 Spl. for 357. But you can't use the 357 for 38 Spl.
This was the 38spl but will do 357 die set. :)
 
You don't want to roll crimp plated bullets. Buy the Lee three die set and add a Lee taper crimp die.

Or this RCBS set on sale that comes with a taper crimp.
So I take it the rcbs seat die can be adjusted to taper crimp? Only reason I chose lee was for my auto drum. I figured I couldn't roll crimp them just wanted to check before wasting extra money on the 4 die set. I'll get the 3 die with taper crimp die. Have some amazon points that will cover all its cost :)
 
I would suggest, with no offence intended, forget the plated bullets for a while. New reloaders seem to have trouble loading plated bullets, perhaps because of a lack of easily found info/data. I see many questions on forums, weekly, about a new reloader can't find load data nor figger out how to crimp them. I've only used maybe 1,100 plated bullets but I just used lead data and taper crimping for all guns, revolvers and semi-auto (but my first 38 Specials were loaded in 1969 so it was simple to figger out)...

I would suggest a new reloader start with jacketed bullets or even cast bullets until they get the basics of reloading down pat (methods and finding data). Find a load in your manual(s) first, then buy components...

Go slow, double check everything, and most important, have fun...
 
So I take it the rcbs seat die can be adjusted to taper crimp?
Yes, that set has a built in taper crimp in the seater instead of the standard roll crimp set. All you need is a slight crimp, remove the bell and a hair more if you want, but it's not needed. With such a light taper crimp it can be done in the same step as seating.

What kind of powder do you have? Clays and American Select both did well with that bullet. Other fast powders should as well.
 
I would say spend the few extra $ and get the 4 die set. You may or may not like the FCD. Some people like some poeple hate it. Cheaper if you get it with the set. I have no porblem seating RN, HP, SWC or WC with my Lee dies in .357/.38
 
Yes, that set has a built in taper crimp in the seater instead of the standard roll crimp set. All you need is a slight crimp, remove the bell and a hair more if you want, but it's not needed. With such a light taper crimp it can be done in the same step as seating.

What kind of powder do you have? Clays and American Select both did well with that bullet. Other fast powders should as well.
HP-38. I figured i use it for 9mm i would just stay with it for 38spl.
 
I would suggest, with no offence intended, forget the plated bullets for a while. New reloaders seem to have trouble loading plated bullets, perhaps because of a lack of easily found info/data. I see many questions on forums, weekly, about a new reloader can't find load data nor figger out how to crimp them. I've only used maybe 1,100 plated bullets but I just used lead data and taper crimping for all guns, revolvers and semi-auto (but my first 38 Specials were loaded in 1969 so it was simple to figger out)...

I would suggest a new reloader start with jacketed bullets or even cast bullets until they get the basics of reloading down pat (methods and finding data). Find a load in your manual(s) first, then buy components...

Go slow, double check everything, and most important, have fun...
I shoot extremes in my 9mm semi auto and have had no issues yet. I size and flare just enough to let it sit to where i don't have to guide it and using mixed brass i use the FCD which sometimes i can feel it and sometimes i cant but everything appears to be fine at the moment. I have a cabelas 10min away and they carry a lot of berrys and extreme so that's why i chose those bullets.
 
I've used roll crimps without problem with plated bullets so long as they have a crimp groove. Otherwise, I would concur with those who say that taper would be better.
 
Agreed ATLDave. Im able to apply a moderate roll crimp in the 125 xtreme without any affect on the plating. Unless you are shooting +P loads in an airweight or poly revolver there is no need to crimp a 38spl round.
 
The X-Treme's have a set of lines barely imprinted on the plating, but I wouldn't call it a cannelure, more like a reference point. That said, if you are able to adjust the roll crimp so it isn't harming accuracy you're good to go.

Much easier with a taper crimp die though. :)
Unless you are shooting +P loads in an airweight or poly revolver there is no need to crimp a 38spl round.
Yes, you are not (Rarely) going to have problems with bullets moving forward in the case with a light 125 Gr plated plinking load.
 
The only plated bullets that I shoot in a revolver are the DEWC or HBWC. They do fine with a light roll crimp from a FCD.
You can also buy spacer rings (I believe from RCBS or Redding) for .38 SPCL dies that adjust the length of the dies to .357 so as to make the die adjustments relatively minor. Used to use these until I simply bought a .357 die set to accompany my .38 SPCL dies.
 
The Lee set has a standard roll crimp built into the seater, as do most .38 Spl/.357 Mag die sets.
 
The only plated bullets that I shoot in a revolver are the DEWC or HBWC.

By a strange coincidence I have a Berrys .38 Spl 148 Gr HBWC round in my pocket today. Light taper crimp. You can see a slight rub from the crimp.

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I use Xtreme plated in 41 Magnum and 41 Special and have no problem using a moderate roll crimp. Not light loads but not full up magnum either. That faux cannelure seems to allow a moderate crimp without damaging the surrounding plating.
 
I have never tried roll crimping any plated, I just bought taper crimp dies. Since the X-Tremes are handling a moderate roll crimp it speaks well for them. We have certainly seen our share of problems here when people roll crimp plated bullets. Probably just over doing it. Case lengths would need to be close, as there isn't a lot of wiggle room with a roll crimp vs taper crimp.
 
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