.357 Sig Reloading Question

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darjo

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I just ordered a Golck 32 and have beed doing research into reloading for this particular round. I noticed that RCBS dies for this come in a 2 die set and are not Carbide. I am used to the 3 die set for .40 S&W and .45 ACP. What do those of you that reload .357 Sig use for this?
 
I have been using the Lee dies, and am quite happy with them. I had to order the FCD separately, but I feel it is worth it. I've used the RCBS dies, didn't like them as much!
 
I use the Lee steel dies and the Factory Crimp Die too. They work great and I don't even have to lube the cases! I think Dillon has 357 carbide dies, but they are expensive.
 
Nobody makes carbide dies for bottle neck cases. I have heard that some guys run the .357 sig cases through their .40 S&W carbide dies which takes care of the bulk of the resizing and then resize the neck with the .357 sig die.
 
For 357 Sig, I've got Redding, RCBS and Dillon Carbide dies. I use them all for different things. The Dillon dies are expensive, and they don't size down on the case as far as the others, due to the belling of the die mouth to facilitate the progressive machines. Each manufacturer has something about their dies that are better in one area, or another.

As for lubing the brass, I've found that it's much easier on the brass to spray it lightly with One Shot, or Midway spray lube, or any of the other spray lubes. I just tumble the sized brass in untreated corn cob for about 20 minutes to take all the lube off.

Since you've never loaded this round before, be aware that even though everything you read says the round headspaces off the case mouth, there are actually two datum points with this cartridge. First is the case mouth, and second is the shoulder. Even if the length of the case is correct, if the shoulder isn't set back far enough, the loaded round won't chamber completely. When you set up your sizing die, be sure to try the sized case in your chamber to see if the slide will go all the way closed. This is where a lot of people have trouble with bottleneck pistol cartridges, so just make sure you set the die up correctly.

If the die won't go down on the shellholder far enough, it may be necessary to mill a few thousandths off the shellholder to allow the die to go down farther. Another way is if you have several shellholders for the same caliber, measure the distance from the inside of the shellholder, where the base of the case sets, to the top of the shellholder, where the die contacts. You'll find that almost all shellholders vary in this measurement, even from the same manufacturer, and you may have one that is "shorter" in this area.

I would recommend that you get a separate crimping die, as this round has a very short neck and the bullet needs to be securely crimped in place to avoid setback. It's a high pressure pistol cartridge, and you need to prevent things that will increase that pressure.

Another thing is the bullet itself. You can't use just any 9mm bullet for 357 Sig. Due to the short neck of the case, the bullet needs a straight bearing surface for the neck. It also needs to be either a flatpoint or hollowpoint bullet. Most roundnose bullets won't work, especially any with the NATO design, which has a long ogive. Remington Golden Sabre bullets also won't work, due to the stepped design of the bearing surface.

Once you get your gun and dies, and get things set up, there are quite a few people here who can walk you through any problems you may encounter.
This is enough information for now, but if you have any further questions, don't hesitate to ask.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
Dillon Does make a carbide die for it. It runs 169.00. For that kinda change, I can buy alot of lee lube and use lee dies.
 
I don't know if you HAVE to use lube for this cartridge, I just do. I never bother tumbling off One Shot, it doesn't cause any problems.
 
I have heard that some guys run the .357 sig cases through their .40 S&W carbide dies which takes care of the bulk of the resizing and then resize the neck with the .357 sig die.

Many reports of this working very well.
 
I run mine through a Magma Case Master Jr. first. This pushes the entire case through a carbide die and sizes everything, including the rim, but not the neck. The machine is set up for 10mm and .40 S&W cases, but works just fine for the 357 Sig. This eliminates any bulging of the cases and makes them very uniform from the rim to the shoulder. Here is a link for it: http://www.magmaengineering.com/item.php?id=3

This type of machine is only for those who do large volumes of reloading, and are particular about their loads. I've got it set up for rimless cases in 9mm size, 10mm size and .45 acp size. It's handy, but not for the casual reloader.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
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I started running my 357 SIG brass through the .40 sizing die. One day, I ran some tumbled 357 brass through my 357 SIG Lee resizing die by accident (about 30-40 cases) and was amazed how easy they went in and out without lube. Been doing it ever since, but I do religiously clean my sizing die.
 
I load with the Dillon Carbide 357 Sig die and like it a lot. I experimented a bunch with the Sig and reloading so I have a bunch of set of dies. I have a lee, rcbs, dillon and I think a hornady set somewhere. I know that right now I am using the dillon carbide for sizing, lee for belling, rcbs for seating and the lee FCD for crimping. I use a lyman check gauge at the end.

I am not sure why I have the hornady die set. I probably bought it at some point for the fun of it and did not like it at all.

Remember AA9 is your friend with the SIG!
 
Not a dumb question at all. It's Accurate Arms #9 pistol powder. It's a relatively slow pistol powder, but excels in the 357 Sig round. It completely fills the case and eliminates the bullet setback problem inherent in short necked, bottleneck pistol cartridges. It has also proven to be one of the most accurate powders for this caliber.

I use it almost exclusively in 357 Sig.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
I know this is a very old thread, but a subject dear to my heart.

On the subject of shoulder position, my Lee and RCBS sizing dies place the shoulder such that the round headspaces nearly .020" further out than do factory rounds from Speer and Federal. I tried both Lee and RCBS shell holders and there's little to no difference. So I have a Lee #19 shell holder that I milled about 17 thousands off and use also for 40. It not only puts the shoulder where those factory rounds are, it also takes a little more of the "Glock Bulge" out. I also feel a little more comfortable with .017" more bearing surface ahead of the shoulder.
 
I think there is some question about head spacing off the shoulder vs the mouth. Buried in the realguns archive is an article that Joe wrote about this.

I have not shot any of my 357Sigs in 10 years, and I have been loosing brain cells ever since.
 
Hi Clark,

I've read some reports like that. I don't think I saw Joe's, though. I'm new to the forum.

My analysis was far from conclusive. I just determined for sure that the resized cases I was getting from Lee and/or RCBS dies had the shoulder too far forward for the case mouth to determine headspace. I found that, for a fixed case length, moving the shoulder rearward (by grinding the shell holder), moved the headspace forward. I quit when it matched the factory rounds I had to compare it with (premium Federal and Speer).
 
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I know this is a very old thread, but a subject dear to my heart.

On the subject of shoulder position, my Lee and RCBS sizing dies place the shoulder such that the round headspaces nearly .020" further out than do factory rounds from Speer and Federal. I tried both Lee and RCBS shell holders and there's little to no difference. So I have a Lee #19 shell holder that I milled about 17 thousands off and use also for 40. It not only puts the shoulder where those factory rounds are, it also takes a little more of the "Glock Bulge" out. I also feel a little more comfortable with .017" more bearing surface ahead of the shoulder.
I have noticed the same thing. In an effort to give my case necks more bearing surface I shortened the bottom of my RCBS sizing die to push the shoulder back a bit.

I'm not entirely certain it helped, but it doesn't seem to have hurt.

Sorry, just noticed that I dragged up an old thread--I found it thru Google.
 
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I bought the Dillon carbide dies and Dillon says they must be lubed. No big deal just some one shot, but if money's a consideration, go with you're favorite steel die.
 
357 sig shoulder issues

The only down side to what we're doing is we are work-hardening the metal in the shoulder. Although I haven't shot enough 357sig to notice a problem, someone concerned about number of reloads per case would need to minimize the shoulder to the very minimum that his specific pistol needs. I have found a large variation in this parameter. E.g., the minimum that works great in a Sig 229 jams a Glock 31 <It won't go into battery, at all>. I don't know if this is a manufacturer specific variation or just a gun to gun variation, but it is something that we need to be aware of.

BTW, I found the same problem on my Lee 400 Corbon sizing die, but even worse: the HS is too far back by 0.020" from the back of the LWD barrel for the Glock 20. It goes into battery for an unknown mfr bbl for 1911's. So big difference. I'd prefer to shoot the Glock since it cause a whole lot less bullet setback issues and resulting over-pressure problems. I've put the 400 Corbon aside for now -- too many issues. I have lots of other projects I can work on!

dave
 
Cmgred:

I use a RCBS 40s&w carbide sizer ahead of the steel 357sig die to avoid the lube issue. It works great. Never had a problem

dave
 
Cmgred:

I use a RCBS 40s&w carbide sizer ahead of the steel 357sig die to avoid the lube issue. It works great. Never had a problem

dave
I can see why that works. Very creative.

I just wouldn't want anybody to spend the money on the Dillon dies, to avoid lubing, when Dillon says you need to.
 
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