38 special cases

[Slasher]

I have some 38 special cases and am about to start reloading 38 and 357. If I am going to load some 38 special +P loads do I need cases that say +P or can I use plain 38 special cases?

Thanks

 

[Sport45]

The only difference between the two is the headstamp. Just keep them segregated after you load them and you'll be fine. I'll make a swipe across the primer with a red magic marker to indicate hot loads as well.

 

[FROGO207]

Over the years I have accumulated enough 38SPL brass that I separated out the +P brass and load it according to the head stamp for ease of identification. Otherwise keeping it separate or marking it is a must. There are some pistols that can't take the +P loads for long if at all before getting destroyed. I don't like to break any of my toys, specially if it can be simply avoided.

 

[Walkalong]

You don't need to have +P cases. The regular cases will handle the pressure just fine.

I like to use +P cases to help identify the +P loads, but I do not load many, so I don't need much +P brass.

 

[psyshack]

I always keep my +P brass separate from SP brass. And only load up +P in +P marked brass.

 

[BADUNAME37]

The brass is made the same way, as far as I know, just printed differently on the base.

I write the data for each load on a loading label I place inside the plastic box cover, so anyone knowing anything about pistols and .38 in particular, would know by reading what I write which loads are 'hot' and which ones are 'not'.

 

[gamestalker]

I load all 38 special to +P and nothing out of the norm appears. I have a bunch of real old 38 spcl. brass that I load to near max and it works completely normal, no splits or separation issues. I think I'll weigh the two and do some measuring just out of curiosity to see if there is any real difference between them. I've heard this question before with 9mm also, but as with 38 spcl., I've never seen anything unusual happen with +P loads in the non +P brass. May be they are a little heavier or thicker?

 

[ArchAngelCD]

Like already said, nothing different in the 2 except for the +P markings.

 

[beatledog7]

Factory +P loads are so indicated on the headstamp to keep the makers out of legal trouble. If you know the brass in question go ahead and hot it up to +P. I wouldn't do that with range pickups though. Can never tell how many times they've been fired. Load range pickups light, in any caliber.

 

[medalguy]

I had the same question last year when I purchased several thousand +P cases to load midrange match ammo. My concern was whether the brass was thicker or not. Everyone assured me it was the same, and my testing yielded the same velocities out of standard .38 cases and the +P cases, so evidently they are indeed the same. Only the headstamp is different.

 

[rcmodel]

Some +P .38 brass is in fact heavier then normal .38 brass.
More akin to .357 Mag brass through the head & case web area.

They must be handled differently, as they have less capacity then thinner normal pressure brass.

The best bet is to weigh different brands of +P cases on your powder scales and compair them.

If the +P is heavier by much, it is thicker with less capacity & you could get over-pressure with a max load you used in a normal case.

In my modest collection of several thousand rounds of .38 brass, I notice Rem brand +P is a lot heavier & thicker then about anything else.

rc