.38 Spl +P

[Werewolf]

I've got 1000's of empty .38 Spl brass cases laying around and though I reload .45 Colt, .45 ACP and .44 Mag I've never gotten around to reloading 38Spl (why bother it's cheap).

But now ammo prices are going up and .38 may just be getting to the price point where I decide to reload it too.

Which brings me to my question...

Can I use standard .38 Spl brass and reload it to +P levels? If not why not? If yes is there a generally accepted limit as to the number of times or should one just continue to examine the brass as is normally done to assure it is still usable.

Inquiring minds want to know...

As an aside I expect to use HP38 or AA#5 as the powder and 158 gr FMJ bullets. Any recommended loads?

 

[The Bushmaster]

The only difference between standard .38 Special and .38 Special +P cases is the head stamp. That's so those who don't reload don't get them mixed up. You, as a reloader, write on the boxes to identify them (I hope)...

 

[loadedround]

Werewolf: As a reloader for over 45 years including reloading the 38 special, I have always been able to reload this caliber for 1/2 of what the cheapest ractory ammo. I started out loading light 38 spl loads for my OM Ruger Blackhawk using 3 gr of Bullseye, 158 gr lead bullet, W-W primers and scrounged mixed headstamped cases...I shot thousands of these loads made on my Tru-Line Jr press. Several years later I started loading target ammo for my S&W Model 52 consisting of a 148 gr HBWC and 2.7 gr of Bullseye all at less than 1/2 the price of any cheap factory. Back then, I figured I was loading a fifty round box of 38's for less than 4.00.

 

[griz]

I've had good results with AA#5 for max and slightly above 38 special loads. Their website has data for it. I have to admit though that I don't see a reason to load an FMJ to +P levels.

 

[Werewolf]

I have to admit though that I don't see a reason to load an FMJ to +P levels.

Well - in my 686 shooting 158 gr FMJ's there is practically no recoil at all (to be honest I feel the recoil when shooting my Buckmark more than I do with the 686 and 38 Spl's). Now I am not a recoil junky like my oldest daughter so I only shoot .357's out of it about once a month and just so I won't be surprised by the recoil if I skip a month or two.

+P's are a kind'a compromise. More kick than a 38 Spl but not as much as the .357's.

 

[RON in PA]

My favorite load for the 38 special is a 158 grain bullet over 4.4 grains of WW231 (suposedly 231 is the same as HP38). This should be just below +P pressures.

 

[Clark]

38 sp brass is good for much higher pressure than the 65kpsi .270 Win brass, but the 38 sp revolver is probably not as strong as the brass.

I have blown up 3 of them and wrecked 2 more.

What gives is the cylinder splits in two or more pieces, sometimes making a hole in the wall. Sometimes the top strap breaks. It is all caused by the metal being so thin on the cylinder. The metal breaks where it is thin, and the crack spreads.

But the 38 sp brass is ok.

 

[Poodleshooter]

What gives is the cylinder splits in two or more pieces, sometimes making a hole in the wall.

No one ever loans guns to you,do they Clark?

If I ever make a million bucks,I'm sending you an N frame .357 for testing,just to see what you can do with your own "38/44s". It will come with an indemnity waiver though....

 

[BluesBear]

I use my brass until they develop splits.

Avoid over expanding the case mouths and with reasonable crimps they'll last much longer.

Unfortunatly nickled cases just won't last as long as unplated brass cases.
The nickle plating makes them a lot more brittle.