.380ACP Bullet Choices

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Find a load that works for you and stick with it for a while until you gain some experience loading. If the RMR is working well then stick with that load for a while. After you get some reloading experience under your belt you will find that the actual manufacture/model of the bullet doesn't make that big of a difference for plinking. Having too many different types of bullets on hand will get to be a hassle down the road. I don't know how many boxes of handgun bullets I have with only 10 or 20 left which will never get used.

I'll second this ^^^. I found a load that my 1911 likes and is very accurate using a 185gr Speer TMJ swc. I haven't been able to find that bullet for a few years, so I substituted the ACME coated 185gr swc. Also pretty accurate when I do my part, but not as accurate as the Speer.

Have been using the RMR 95gr RN FMJ. It is a .355 which seems to be a nice fit.

So if it's a nice fit then use it. Once I find a bullet and powder combo that my gun (whichever gun) likes, I buy that bullet 500 or 1000 at a time. If it feeds and functions fine, then load up a bunch and whatever you do don't adjust your dies unless you start having a problem or you change bullets.

Glad you found something that works for you.

chris
 
Given the price and quality of RMR products I’m really not sure why @frjeff is looking for something new but experimenting can also be fun. Just be aware that experimenting is expensive and comes with complications. Sometimes very frustrating complications.
 
Given the price and quality of RMR products I’m really not sure why @frjeff is looking for something new but experimenting can also be fun. Just be aware that experimenting is expensive and comes with complications. Sometimes very frustrating complications.
I am thinking you are right. The RMR rounds are a good value, consistent quality, rapid shipment and work well in my Bersa.
The forum has not indicated that there is a better overall bullet for my purposes. So, am staying with them as my go to.
But, not going to rule out some fun experimenting down the road……
 
I am thinking you are right. The RMR rounds are a good value, consistent quality, rapid shipment and work well in my Bersa.
The forum has not indicated that there is a better overall bullet for my purposes. So, am staying with them as my go to.
But, not going to rule out some fun experimenting down the road……
And when you do we’ll be here to talk you through the frustrations and complications - and have a good laugh (at your expense) along the way. 😁
What are buddies for, right?
🙄
 
We aren't arguing advanced reloading...I'm correcting a poster

Technically he's correct, .380/9MM/.38 Super/.38 Spl/.357 Mag groove diameters can overlap, it just wasn't helpful to the OP to go on about it.

But what the OP needed was simple advice, which is buy some .355 or .356 bullets intended for the .380 and enjoy.

Not an inexperienced reloader, just too lazy at the keyboard today to fill in all the details to make you, and possibly other readers, happy. God forgive me.
The OP deserves better than lazy, as do all the readers.
 
Technically he's correct, .380/9MM/.38 Super/.38 Spl/.357 Mag groove diameters can overlap, it just wasn't helpful to the OP to go on about it.

But what the OP needed was simple advice, which is buy some .355 or .356 bullets intended for the .380 and enjoy.


The OP deserves better than lazy, as do all the readers.
Understand that nobody disputed there isn't overlap, we all know that. The dispute is when you tell somebody that there won't be any difference in pressure or accuracy between the different diameters, and that's irresponsible. Somebody else reading this may own a 9mm on the tight side, and throw a .357 130 fmj with .355 load data, because he "read on the internet that there is no difference in accuracy or pressure between .355 and .357"....and now because he's the poor guy stuck on the wrong side of tolerance stacking he's got a over pressure load. Maybe it's fine this time and he just flattens some primers...but maybe he loaded that 130 fmj super short, maybe his gun isn't the highest quality, who knows.....but maybe this is just enough to cause kaboom.

It's just simply irresponsible to say there is no difference period. There's nothing wrong with pointing out the specs overlap, and there's nothing wrong with saying that it's possible to shoot .355 to .357 bullets across multiple calibers, but making an emphatic claim that there is no difference is flat out negligent. If fxvr5 wants to start another thread regarding advanced loading topics where things like differentiating bullet profiles between revolver and pistol .355-.357 bullets, cannelure vs no cannelure, OAL differences, and load work ups and such between 9mm and 38/357, that's a fine place for this type of discussion....but telling a new loader there is no difference? That needs to be shut down out of the gate. Period.
 
One last comment and I think Walkalong might say this is OK since this relates to the safety issue. With respect to .355 and .357 pressure that EricBu is so upset about, longdayjake, who owns/runs RMR bullets, has posted on this forum in 2020 on the issue of shooting oversize bullets. He writes, "There isn't an issue with shooting a .358 jacketed bullet through a handgun. It won't create any noticeable pressure difference. A friend of mine that has pressure testing equipment tested some .357 9mm bullets out of a 9mm barrel and could not get pressures to show any difference in 9mm between the .357 and the .355 bullets."

This was through a .355" barrel. see post #8 and following posts at this link:

 
Fortunately, I tend to always err on the side of self-preservation. As a newb reloader I tend to also be highly anal on load validation. Never trusting a single source.
And as a recent post stated, “read forum info for entertainment” - not Biblical truth/fact.
And, I appreciate those here who tend to share a protective caution now and then.
 
Jacketed bullets are more accurate and easy to deal with when reloading. Plated bullets are next, then cast.

Anything RMR is quality stuff. For hollowpoints/self defense, the Hornady 95 grain XTP is a nice bullet.

With jacketed bullets, you don't have to bellmouth and crimp the cases. Just neck expand and seat the bullet. Saves steps compared to using plated or cast bullets. Plus, the RMR jacketed bullet is pretty much the same price as plated. No brainer.

Good Luck
 
Disclaimer: My apologies to OP @frjeff as some of us THR OCD reloaders have totally hijacked the thread but there are some information that is pertinent to those new to reloading and that is there are many reloading variables that can affect chamber pressure build/max average pressures that ultimately will affect accuracy on target. (We may start as reloaders to save money/hobby but some of us become passionate handloaders)

Fact is, we're shooting .355 bullets in our 9mm barrels that are the same groove diameter range as our 38/357 revolvers, and we didn't even know it. Unless you slugged your barrel. And people shoot .356, .357 bullets through their 9mm pistols, too.

Someone will come along and say all their 9mm barrels measure .355 and their 38/357 barrels measure .357. That's nice, but of the dozen+ 9mm and 38/357 barrels I've measured, they run the gamut from .355 to nearly .358.
This is true. I have slugged barrels and have seen 9mm groove-to-groove diameter at .355" to .356"+, and for this reason why many members report being able to shoot .357" sized bullets in 9mm barrels.

Take away for new reloader is that one should slug their barrels to know the groove-to-groove diameter. If they have .355" barrel, using .356" sized lead bullets may not produce leading. But if they have .356" barrel, using .356" sized lead bullet may produce leading and may need to use larger .357" sized bullet to prevent leading.


For shooting plated and jacketed bullets, it's been my experience that slightly larger sizing of bullet can produce less gas leakage and greater accuracy. So if your barrel is .355", using .355"/.3555"/.356" sized plated/jacketed bullets may produce accuracy but if your barrel is .356"+, using larger .3555" (Speer TMJ/Gold Dot/RMR) and .356" (Berry's/Hornady HAP/Zero) sized bullets may reduce gas leakage and produce greater accuracy. Of course, we can't forget the variable of neck tension and bullet setback that will significantly affect accuracy overshadowing bullet diameter so we should also check for bullet setback as part of our reloading QC.

Take away for new reloader is that while many bullet types and sizing can work, certain barrel/bullet diameter combination can produce greater accuracy. And to further improve accuracy, bullet setback QC check should be incorporated into reloading practice and may consider using larger diameter bullets and/or thicker case wall brass to reduce/eliminate bullet setback as reduction of few thousandths in OAL/bullet seating depth can increase chamber pressure by several thousand PSI - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...-and-discussions.778197/page-11#post-12503881


Don't tell people they can expect the same accuracy and pressures interchanging .355, .356, and .357 bullets between 9mm, 38, and 357! Yes, they can use them, but they must rework loads, and they must understand that they WILL NOT SHOOT THE SAME.
This is also true. 9mm is high pressure small internal case volume cartridge and small changes in reloading variable can affect pressures (Remember reduction in just a few thousandths in OAL can increase pressure by several thousand PSI?).

Take away for new reloader - While 380Auto does not operate at high pressures like 9mm, it is still a small internal case volume cartridge and small changes can affect pressures and why published start/max charges have such narrow range (Because pressure can increase from small increase in powder charge).


longdayjake, who owns/runs RMR bullets, has posted on this forum in 2020 on the issue of shooting oversize bullets.
And here's the quote(s) - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...et-down-for-357-mag-use.872458/#post-11586429
There isn't an issue with shooting a .358 jacketed bullet through a handgun. It won't create any noticeable pressure difference. A friend of mine that has pressure testing equipment tested some .357 9mm bullets out of a 9mm barrel and could not get pressures to show any difference in 9mm between the .357 and the .355 bullets ... It was a test barrel and it measured .355"
If you check Accurate/Ramshot load data (Now bought by Hodgdon), you will notice RMR jacketed bullets listed which means pressure testing was done even to +P (Note that max test pressures can vary and "average" may be used for published load data) - https://www.hodgdonreloading.com/reloading-data-center
  • 9mm 115 gr RMR FMJ No. 5 COL 1.120" Start 5.6 gr (1,036 fps) 30,700 PSI - Max 6.2 gr (1,124 fps) 34,100 PSI
  • 9mm 115 gr RMR FMJ True Blue COL 1.120" Start 5.3 gr (1,065 fps) 30,200 PSI - Max 5.9 gr (1,151 fps) 33,600 PSI
  • 9mm +P 115 gr RMR FMJ No. 5 COL 1.120" Start 6.2 gr (1,129 fps) 36,100 PSI - Max 6.6 gr (1,186) 38,400 PSI
  • 9mm +P 115 gr RMR FMJ True Blue COL 1.120" Start 5.9 gr (1,154 fps) 36,400 PSI - Max 6.2 gr (1,199 fps) 38,400 PSI
So for Jake to make such a statement on a public forum like THR is likely because he has hard data to support such statement. Chances are when .357" bullets were shot in .355" barrel, they were reduced down to .355" sizing to not show "noticeable pressure difference".
Don't let LiveLife see this. He'll have a cow.
Nope, no cow needed. If Jake posts he did the .357" sized bullet in .355" test pressure fixture barrel and got no "noticeable pressure difference" from .355" sized bullet, I would have no problem accepting that test result.

Take away for new reloader - There are many reloading variables which can affect chamber pressure change. Some variables overshadow other variables but focus on variables that have more significant change in pressure. IMHO for me based on my limited experience, those are listed below from more to less affect on accuracy:
  • Type/nose profile/brand of bullet (Jacketed vs plated and certain brands are more accurate like HAP/Zero/Montana Gold/RMR(ELEY), etc.)
  • FP/HP/SWC over RN (Longer bullet base to engage the rifling and also improve neck tension ... I was also told by my match shooting mentors HP has greater rotational stability in flight than RN due to shifting of center of mass towards base that engages the rifling)
  • No bullet setback over erratic setback (Consistency of bullet seating depth produces more consistent pressures affected by barrel bore size, bullet sizing, case wall thickness)
  • Fast vs slow burn rate powder depending on power factor of load (Lighter target loads favor faster burning powders)
  • Consistency of powder charges
  • Consistency of bullet weight
  • Etc. Etc.
 
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Thank you....I've been busy, I'm not new by far, I was illustrating a point of misinformation for a new reloader to stumble on, keep the .380 to the .355/.356" and you should be OK there, otherwise, depends on your purposes and needs, for summer carry, I go solid copper hp, for winter carry, ftx, for plinking? Any .356 or .355 plated or jacketed bullet I can get to shoot half straight is fine for my purposes. Berry's and rmr have been awesome thus far.
 
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