40 S&w Case Tension

Status
Not open for further replies.

Rockchucker

Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2003
Messages
13
Location
Plymouth, WI
I just finished loading a couple of hundred 40 S&W's. Went to the range to shoot and noticed that a number of them had bullets that had seated deeper in the case. I kind of expected it because I had not felt much resistance when I seated the bulets. I used RCBS Carbide dies for sizing, belling and seating. The crimp die was an RCBS (new die) taper crimp die that I had just gotten direct from the factory so that I could seat bullets in the old seat and crimp die and do my crimping in a fourth step.

I was loading 165 gr Star FMJ TC bulets, and R-P brass. Has anyone had similar experiences. I miked the bullets and the are right at .400. I suspect a bad die or else the R-P brass is thinner than other head stamps.

Ideas!-Opinions!-Suggestions?
 
Rockchuker-Finally took Wesshoot's advise, and ordered a 45 acp undersize die directly from Lee. If your belling plug is appropriatly sized (doesn't re-expand the brass), this die works very well for providing good case tension. Lee said they will make one for any straigt walled pistol brass.

The Rem pistol brass that i have tried appears thinner,harder and less elastic than most others.

A Lee factory crimp, different brass, sized belling plug might also help.

Have gotten into the habit of loading bullet with no powder or primer, then checking for set back by loading it into mag, then releasing slide from full lock back position. This is more realistic test than manually pressing the round ont a hard surface.
 
Or you could use a 30-30 sizing die, like I do. I have no problems with setback. I don't pay for my cases and don't pick up those shot in competition so case life isn't a factor for me. It still takes three or more sizings before neck splits start to show up.
 
Before investing in new equipment

Before you start buying other dies and throwing the baby out with the bath water, experiment until you get the right setting. Try adjusting your crimp die down in 1/8 turn increments and then give your round the thumb pressure test. If you can't setback the bullet with a good amount of pressure, you are probably good to go. I also like to load my 40's with a nice bulky powder that gets partially compressed, like Blue Dot. Also experiment with your belling adjustment and use the minimum bell that will allow you to still load your rounds easily.
 
Thanks for all the info.....I have tried other cases. I haven't had trouble with the Fed, MIL, or Win cases. The crimp die is brand new. I just received two of them from RCBS (the other is for use with my 10mm). I just got sick of seating bullets in one step and then resetting the die and crimping as an additional step. So I just bought the extra dies and set one to seat and another to crimp. I haven't set up the 10mm yet. I think that it is just that the R-P brass is thinner than others. I know that I have had similar problems with 45 acp R-P.

The Lee undersized die is a good idea. They are made about 60 miles from my home. When I get some time I am going to try crimping with some of the other seat/crimp dies (since I have four now) maybe the die that I am using now is a little oversized????

I've been a reloader (currently set up for 35 various calibers) for 35 yrs. so I'm not new to this. I still load everything on an RCBS Rockchucker. Yeah, I've tried progressives, but I like the quality control that you have with each step when you load on a single stage tool (it would have taken me alot longer to discover this problem if I had been loading on a Dillon). I load by the five gallon pail. Do one caliber at a time....9mm, 40 S&W, 38 spec., 357, 41 mag.,44 spec., 44 Mag, 10 mm, 45 ACP., 45LC.,...I deprime/size the whole bucket, then bell the whole bucket, seat bullets in the whole bucket and then crimp the whole batch. I store that lot of ammo in a 5 gal. pail and use one pail for loaded ammo and one for storing empty cases. Then I start the next caliber. It usually works out that I only load certain calibers every two-three years, but stuff like the 40 S&W and 45 acp get loaded a couple of times a year.

I know that it sounds like alot of work, but I have enough deadlines and pressure in my everyday work life. Reloading is relaxation for me and I take my time and enjoy it. I have a very well equiped loading room and spend alot of time just putzing around in it.

I have two adult kids that were always fed all the ammo that they can shoot up as they were growing up. Their job was always to MAKE EMPTIES and mine was to RELOAD them. They are both very good at their "job" and are skilled gun handlers.

I load varmint rifle ammo with the same 5 gal. pail system. We generaly go to South Dakota and shoot praire dogs at least once a year. 17 Rem., 22-Hornet, 22-K-Hornet, 222 Rem., 223., 222 Mag., 223 Ackley Imp., 225 Win.,22-250, 220 Swift., 22-25- Ackley Imp., 243 Win., 243 Ackley Imp., 6mm Varmint Rifles.

I have played with almost all of the common big game calibers, but have recently layed off the Magnums, except for one 308 Norma Mag that I still shoot alittle, and a 338-06 that I love! I'm 55 and don't enjoy recoil as much as I used to.

I am also an avid trap-skeet-sporting clays shooter and load 410-28-20-16-12 (all on MEC progressive tools).

Thanks again for the suggestions.....
 
Rockchucker-am also currently doing all my reloads on single stage Rockchucker.

All the pistol loading being currently done is seperately crimped by Lee factory crimp die, which is another excellent investment. When get around to reloading the calibers where there are't any Lee FC available, will special order them. Redding's profile crimp die is just as useful for roll crimped rounds.

When used in combination with a reduced dia belling plug and a Lee undersize die, bullet set back can be eliminated. This can be a very important consideration in any load, particulary in higher powered handloads using the shorter lighter bullets.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top