Targa
Member
Okay
44 mag 240 grain keith swc Missouri bullet
- Thread starter 44magbuster
- Start date
OP
OP
44magbuster
Member
- Joined
- May 17, 2023
- Messages
- 35
That just sounds stout
Targa
Member
It definitely is stout but right in line with 240 grain Magtech when I ran them through the chronograph for a comparison. I did take it up to 23.5 grains and that did take it a 100 fps faster than the factory stuff.
GeoDudeFlorida
Member
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2020
- Messages
- 11,062
You have quite a few Accurate and Ramshot powders. Hodgdon’s lists all of the loading data from the last Western manual on their site:
GeoDudeFlorida
Member
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2020
- Messages
- 11,062
Don’t get hung up on inconsequential inconsistency. Plus or minus 10 grains with a bullet of 250 grains is irrelevant. A powder coated bullet is a lead bullet with a tough layer of lubricant on it. A plated bullet is a Total Metal Jacket bullet with a very thin jacket. Jacketed bullets do need more pressure to make it down the barrel than lubed (coated) lead simply because the jacket doesn’t yield as much as plain lead. There’s lots of material called “lead” in reloading and it is not all the same.
Have you read the first chapters of your manuals? Really read and understood them? If not, you will probably still be able to make perfectly safe ammo that hits the paper and makes noise and flames and kicks like a bramble mare… but you won’t be able to grow and improve.
If you did read the first chapters of all of your manuals and really understood them, then I’m a little confused by some of the questions.
Have you read the first chapters of your manuals? Really read and understood them? If not, you will probably still be able to make perfectly safe ammo that hits the paper and makes noise and flames and kicks like a bramble mare… but you won’t be able to grow and improve.
If you did read the first chapters of all of your manuals and really understood them, then I’m a little confused by some of the questions.
sparkyv
Member
I like my 1,300 fps load out of my 6.5" M629 using H110, which takes a mid/high charge with that 240gr MBC. Very good accuracy. Blue Dot is another great powder for this projectile. I still need to try 2400.
H110 has some idiosyncrasies such that a beginning reloader is advised to refrain from using it until he gets some practical reloading experience.
H110 has some idiosyncrasies such that a beginning reloader is advised to refrain from using it until he gets some practical reloading experience.
243winxb
Member
Elmer didnt use no coated bullets.
Has anyone compared lead Vs coated? Same load except for
Bullets? Change in velocity?
EDIT/Add-
https://www.ssusa.org/articles/2017/3/7/coated-bullets-the-future-of-lead-bullets-for-handloaders/
Better accuracy, less velocity with coated. From link.
Last edited:
OP
OP
44magbuster
Member
- Joined
- May 17, 2023
- Messages
- 35
I have read them and I have loaded 7.62x39, 357 mag, 450 bushmaster with good results but I also had direct load data for all of those...with the 240g keith Bullet I wasn't finding load data directly for them, I like when I can get that...I'm also new to using lead bullets and wasn't sure if I could swap data for a round nose with a swc etc
OP
OP
44magbuster
Member
- Joined
- May 17, 2023
- Messages
- 35
Elmer didnt use no coated bullets.
Has anyone compared lead Vs coated? Same load except for
Bullets? Change in velocity?
I believe I read that elmer used water pump grease to lube his bullets it was part of the reason he went with a squared off lube groove
GeoDudeFlorida
Member
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2020
- Messages
- 11,062
There should be a section in every manual about seating depth and why cartridge overall average length is used instead. I have seen such articles in very old manuals but I guess the modern editions don’t really care about why things are done the way they are.
That’s all a long way of saying the best way to vette your bullet and testing tables in the manual is to compare seating depth for the bullet you have vs the bullet for which you have loading tables. The weight to within 5% and the profile matter but, the amount of bullet under the rim and above the powder matters more. Well, at least as much, maybe. Start with start and work up to the best accuracy.
Never did see what the intended use-case is.
OP
OP
44magbuster
Member
- Joined
- May 17, 2023
- Messages
- 35
Just plan to target shoot,plink for awhile than work up some hunting loads after I get a few rounds down range
GeoDudeFlorida
Member
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2020
- Messages
- 11,062
Take a look at this starting load then:
TiteGroup has a reputation for not being position sensitive but, in my opinion, 4.7gr in the .44Mag case may be pushing “insensitive” to the breaking point. I believe with the MBC bullet in a Redhawk I might start at 6gr and test for differences in velocity, point of aim vs point of impact, muzzle blast, etc. with the powder forward vs back.
You need to read up on a few reloading manuals. Once you do, start loading with Titegroup on the low end of 5-6 grains. You'll have lots of safety margin this way. The rounds will feel like you're shooting a 9mm in a 1911 platform but they will go bang and will not be a danger to your gun. With a 5 grain load margin using Titegroup you can then feel the difference as you work up from 5g up to 8-9g. No need to try to push it too fast with this powder, just make very sure you don't double or triple charge your case with Titegroup because it takes up very little volume in a 44 magnum case.
23 grains of H110 seated and crimped at the cannelure, BAM, you have factory matching .44mag…
My go to for years and yes it is stout. If you are going to shoot the 44mag you might as well do it right. If one is going to shoot Magnums why mess around with powder puff loads imo. H110 likes full house loads and mag primers. 2400 you can play with and use SPPs. To the OP go to Hodgdon's and Alliant's online reloading data and go with it. Start towards the low end and work your way up.
GeoDudeFlorida
Member
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2020
- Messages
- 11,062
I already touched on that and got this reply:
OP is already well read and highly experienced; just not with the bullet design that kicked off the magnum class cartridges and remain popular today. He just needs a nudge towards some MBC-specific charge weights to use.
OP
OP
44magbuster
Member
- Joined
- May 17, 2023
- Messages
- 35
I'm not trying to sound like I know it all because I don't...please don't take it the wrong way in probably just over thinking it all but I wanna go slow and be safeI already touched on that and got this reply:
OP is already well read and highly experienced; just not with the bullet design that kicked off the magnum class cartridges and remain popular today. He just needs a nudge towards some MBC-specific charge weights to use.
GeoDudeFlorida
Member
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2020
- Messages
- 11,062
Exactly right! Never rush when reloading!
I asked if you had read the parts of your manual which discuss seating and alloys. You said you had. All good. There’s lots of members here who can tell you exactly what I said: You don’t need to read the front half of the manual to make perfectly good, safe ammo. You just might have a slightly steeper learning curve - but not always. One feller here claims reading the ABC’s made him puke and go into spasms.
I also said I think a lot of the newer books do their readers a disservice by glossing over the finer points of load design, like calculating seating depth from bullet fit. I can imagine having to plow through all that would’ve put the poor fella in the hospital!
You won’t typically find manufacturers specific data for common castings but, you will find all sorts of data for the profiles and weights of those castings.
OP
OP
44magbuster
Member
- Joined
- May 17, 2023
- Messages
- 35
My concern is the keith swc having more bullet in the case than some of the other 240g bullet throwing the case volume off of the load data provided for other bullets...if I crimp in the crimp groove that isExactly right! Never rush when reloading!
I asked if you had read the parts of your manual which discuss seating and alloys. You said you had. All good. There’s lots of members here who can tell you exactly what I said: You don’t need to read the front half of the manual to make perfectly good, safe ammo. You just might have a slightly steeper learning curve - but not always. One feller here claims reading the ABC’s made him puke and go into spasms.
I also said I think a lot of the newer books do their readers a disservice by glossing over the finer points of load design, like calculating seating depth from bullet fit. I can imagine having to plow through all that would’ve put the poor fella in the hospital!
You won’t typically find manufacturers specific data for common castings but, you will find all sorts of data for the profiles and weights of those castings.
Jim Watson
Member
The nose of the bullet does not affect the powder charge.
Lyman 429667 flat point is the same weight as your bulk bullet and its powder charges are in the same range as what Hodgdon shows which indicates seating depth and bearing surface are similar.
Don't underload H110, it is a true Magnum powder - originally meant for .30 Carbine - and I would treat the starting load as minimum.
Do not overload Titegroup, it is hot and fast; I wouldn't load the maximum even "working up".
The high velocities shown by some sources are shot from a long pressure/velocity test barrel, you will not get such speed from a revolver.
Lyman 429667 flat point is the same weight as your bulk bullet and its powder charges are in the same range as what Hodgdon shows which indicates seating depth and bearing surface are similar.
Don't underload H110, it is a true Magnum powder - originally meant for .30 Carbine - and I would treat the starting load as minimum.
Do not overload Titegroup, it is hot and fast; I wouldn't load the maximum even "working up".
The high velocities shown by some sources are shot from a long pressure/velocity test barrel, you will not get such speed from a revolver.
AJC1
Member
Fast powders are way more intolerant of mistakes and small charge differences. They also have snappier recoil and are not recommended for hunting..... if your experienced with 357 as you say use the same powder as you've been loading in that.... start with something you know
OP
OP
44magbuster
Member
- Joined
- May 17, 2023
- Messages
- 35
I load h110 in 357 19.5g behind a 125g xtp bullet
AJC1
Member
You have that powder and are experenced in its requirements and limitations, use that first, unless you don't have mag primers. Using what your familiar with already eases you into a new loading.
My methods only, may help a newer reloader; I started reloading waaay pre web (thankfully). I relied on published information (manuals and texts) found in my local library. When I found reloading forums on line, approx. 2007 and I saw anyone could post reloading info. I saw some crazy, dangerous loads posted and some off the wall methods. I formed my Rule #1, I pay very little attention to any load data I see on any forum, or pet loads website (especially youtube), any magazine article, or I hear from any range rat, good intended friend, gun counter clerk or gun shop guru. I sometimes read online/forum data, but never use it in my handloads, mostly for entertainment only, and without triple checking in my published manuals. I get 98% of my load data from published reloading manuals and a few from powder manufacturer's websites. May sound "overthinking and paranoia" but since 1972 I have had no squibs, no Kabooms or near Kabooms. My one squib was in 1971, and learned from that. I have never run out of options when using published manuals and variations loads abound. I've been called "old school uncool" and "caveman reloader", but I have been using my Rule #1 keeping my guns and me safe and providing tons o' fun (in the '80s and '90s I was really into 44 Magnums and enjoyed the wrist breaking recoil and the "sonic boom" muzzle blast, but I never forgot my Rule #1 and have all my fingers). Yep, I know many reloaders can say they have never had a problem with "forum data", but the possibility of harm is still there...
I would highly suggest newer reloaders research their own load data and use forum data only for an idea for where to find good safe data. Reliable, safe, tested data is available and easily found I'm not saying all forum data is bad, but I keep in mind the load I read way back on a forum where a member posted a load (357 Mag.?) that was a full grain over a fast powder's max. The load stayed on the forum for a day and a half when the OP came back with "sorry, I hit the wrong key". How many new reloaders could have used that load and possible damage the their guns or themselves?
Sorry for preaching, but the OP seems to want exact powder charges for his 44 Magnum loads and I just want to convey one of the safety measures that has kept my fingers and guns intact for nearly 50 years...
I would highly suggest newer reloaders research their own load data and use forum data only for an idea for where to find good safe data. Reliable, safe, tested data is available and easily found I'm not saying all forum data is bad, but I keep in mind the load I read way back on a forum where a member posted a load (357 Mag.?) that was a full grain over a fast powder's max. The load stayed on the forum for a day and a half when the OP came back with "sorry, I hit the wrong key". How many new reloaders could have used that load and possible damage the their guns or themselves?
Sorry for preaching, but the OP seems to want exact powder charges for his 44 Magnum loads and I just want to convey one of the safety measures that has kept my fingers and guns intact for nearly 50 years...
