.45 acp revolver recommendations

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Marine?

Well, welcome, RadioactiveMarine (from an Army vet). I'll hold off on the jarhead jokes as a professional courtesy, but yes, we will have to agree to disagree with the S&W Hillary Hole issue.:scrutiny:

Having cruised the gun shows for the last 40 years, I know for certain that there are plenty of very nice, very minty S&Ws that lack the Hillary Hole, and it's simply not my wish to put S&W out of business for doing somthing that I regard both stupid and cowardly :banghead::cuss: but I prefer not to own a weapon that has a 'safety feature' that I neither need nor trust. The transfer bar safety, on the other hand, is something that doesn't bother me, not because I rarely drop a handgun, but because they don't have a reputation for causing more trouble than they're worth.
 
Back to topic..... I tested out my newly acquired 325PD and it shoots very well. Weighs almost nothing in fact I am carrying it today. Good shooting gun and light enough to carry. Might look at one if you ever plan to carry an N frame.

jim
 
S&W 625, 325 PD or TR or M22-4. Hands down the finest revolvers ever made for this cartridge in terms of performance and practicality.
 
The 45ACP is a fun cartridge in a revolver. My Model 22 Thunder Ranch is a heck of a fun gun to shoot, but the recoil gets to me after a box or so. I can shoot 45ACP in a gov't 1911 all day, but the revolver is another story!

It's accurate as heck, too... This was offhand, 7 or 8 yards:

_DSC2332.jpg
 
My suggestion, if you can swing it, is a new 625JM. A bit pricey, but you'll enjoy it's included 'extra's'. The Miculek grip, the spring loaded front sight (Tool-less change in seconds!), the eased charge holes, the minimal trigger job... all included and great extras.

Stainz
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I always appreciate your input, Mr Stainz :)

That being said, I have a 625 JM coming my way ... :D
 
I have one of the 22 Thunder Ranch guns as well, and it's pretty decent. I agree that they kick, especially with those grips. I suggest a Tyler T-grip at the least. A big ugly set of rubber Pachmayers or similar would really do the job, though the revolver gods would probably take offense. I cheat by loading 185 grain Berry's plated bullets to about 650 FPS.

The gun is also quite accurate. I was concerned, as there are some ACP/revolver horror stories, but the gun is dimensionally correct and locks up beautifully, with commensurate results.

The DA trigger is gawdawful, as is standard with current S&W products in my experience. I automatically figure in an additional hundred bucks to any new S&W purchase for the trigger job.

The lock doesn't bother me. I mean, I'd prefer it wasn't there, but I've learned to live with it and essentially ignore it. Yes, it's another gadget to go wrong, but the handful of verifiable stories on that count give me confidence that the odds are against any significant problems. As a Californian, we definitely cannot simply bop down to the local gun shop and find an old Smith sitting around waiting to be bought. I actively hunt these treasures and snap them up on sight. Unfortunately about a zillion other folks around here are doing the same thing. So putting up with the lock is the only real alternative.
 
A big ugly set of rubber Pachmayers or similar would really do the job, though the revolver gods would probably take offense.
Click to expand...
I have a big ugly set of rubber Pachmayers on my Colt New Service -- the revolver gods seem to approve, since I shoot a lot better with them than with the original Colt grips (which are stored safely where they can be re-installed at any time.)
 
I dunno, mate, I'd be looking out for bolts from above. Or maybe just a rogue prancing horse.

If I went shooting with rubber grips on a classic revolver, I'd probably do it in the dark and hope I didn't get caught. ;)
 
I can't bring myself to change out the grips--they're so purdy! Besides, they have a lot of "feel" (lol) and they keep me from shooting boxes and boxes of ammo :)

As far as the trigger... Some of the new Smith's have really good triggers, even straight out of the box. My M22 TR has a pretty good one, although I was having some light primer strikes and had to adjust the screw on the front strap a bit, and the trigger pull isn't as good now. It locks up tight, though the cylinder doesn't spin as evenly and smoothly as some of my S&W's. Not sure if that's a 45 thing or what.

However... I just picked up a Nickel model 27 and the trigger is very good! I wouldn't go so far as to say OUTSTANDING... But it is better than many of the Performance Center guns I've felt as of late. The things feels like a fine swiss watch in operation, and runs like a top. I'm glad some folks won't buy the Hillary-lock S&W's, it leaves the pick of the litter for me :)

I'm not quite as accurate with it as compared to the M22, though, go figure...

Together:
IMG_0449.jpg
 
.38 Special, Vern, loplop and Co., not only have I been shooting my TR 22-4 for over a year with an ugly, rubber Hogue Monogrip, I further uglified the Monogrip by carving off its finger grooves with a pocket knife. The pretty, original stocks live in a dresser drawer; maybe I'll reinstall them if I pick up a Tyler adapter some day.

I shoot it in broad daylight. No fear; the revolver gods just smile and say, "Yes, it fits your hand and you shoot better. That's what revolvers are for."
 
That 27 is a good looking gun. I can't wait to pick mine up, but we're still waiting for them to make the "approved" list here in California. (They haven't been declared "safe" yet, even though a bunch of other Smiths with identical lockwork have been. :rolleyes: ) I can't wait to get one of the Model 24s in .44 Special too. And I guess I'll need a 4" nickel 29. And...
 
And Brian, I ordered a pair of Ultra Ivory classic grips from Eagle Grips and a Tyler T-grip is on its way as well. I have always thought this Bowen .38/44 was a real looker, (revolver gods happy) and the T-Grips should make my hand a lot happier too.
 
If you need help with the recoil on a 325/625, ie, a roundbutt, consider the rubber I reverted to for my 4" & 6" 629 - see my 6" 629 below. Those are the Hogue made-for-S&W .460/.500 Magnum monogrips - available only from S&W Accessories ($35). The one size fits all - K, L, N, & X-frame. They really help with my 629s. They add ~ 3/16" to the trigger pull, but they insulate that backstrap.

IMG_0313_edited.gif

A friend bought a new 625-10 when they first came out, that SS-looking alloy framed no-barrel version from a few years back. He tried gloves, but traded it away within the first few weeks after trying a myriad of rounds. He just wasn't ready for the regular 625's recoil, much less the lite weight version's. I have a LH-ed friend, great competitor with a collection of Kimbers, Les Baers, and 1911-style race guns. He bought a 625JM - sold it within days at a huge loss. He thought it would open up another competition avenue for him - until he tried speed reloading left handed. He then complained heavily about the recoil - no action to absorb some of the energy.

Yeah, I carried a 1911 on watch & SP in the USN ('69-'72). Loose as a goose, it rattled so much you could here me coming! Still, compared with the 'race guns' some guys used at the local SPC matches - which seem to jam when you look at them wrong - I never had a jam in a regular 1911 - or, of course, my 625s. After bragging about that, just over four years ago, I lost my yoke screw and my yoke & cylinder were in my hand during a reload at a SPC match. I sent the revolver, a 4" 625-8 bought new 9/02, back to S&W for R&R - it had 8k-10k through it by then and the b/c gap had closed up - and stupidly sold it when it came back, a week later and LN, of course. The 625JM came out within six months - a long six months - and I bought an early one. They are addictive - and keepers! Oh, I found that yoke screw - gleaming in the sun amongst the gravel.

Stainz
 
I dunno, mate, I'd be looking out for bolts from above. Or maybe just a rogue prancing horse.

If I went shooting with rubber grips on a classic revolver, I'd probably do it in the dark and hope I didn't get caught.
Click to expand...
I call your attention to Saint William's Epistle to the Oklahomans, "Guns are made for shooting. Shoot 'em the way they shoot best."
 
sweet i just read this and joined because i wanted to respond
well the 45 acp is awesome in a revolver the energy loss by the rovolver gap doesnt really matter with the 45 (its not an energy bullet)
the best stock thing out there now is probably the s&w night guard it has the stainless cylinder so it ways just a bit more than the titanium model but comes with better sights
warning this revolver will be very (repeat very) snappy to your grip
and on hiding it there is only one thick part on the gun (the revolving part) excluding the prepackaged 6 round reload moon clip
doesnt that world champ miculek use a steel s&w (625)
the 45acp revolver is a great thing s&w used to make a 9mm (most prevalent pistol cartridge on earth) and make a 10mm revolver (shoots the 40 s&w standard cop bullet) but unfortunately they make none of these guns centenial style (hidden hammer) a j frame 9mm centenial or a 5 shot Lframe 45acp centenial would be ideal combat revolvers ok throw in the 10mm/40s&w
these bullets you will most easily scavange in america
if you had an airship and traveled the world the 9mm is THE scavangers round

ok im new i hated english class i probably misspelled some words and i should have at least used commas just break it down to simple sentence structure
if a bunch of old heads cant read this (which tend to love the revolver like me) i can repost or add a little bit of punctuation)

for what its worth smith and wesson came close to making the perfect "belly gun" back in 1999 they made an aluminum 5 shot 44 special enclosed hammer i believe it was an L frame (shot one once and figured a target didnt need to be hit bad enough to justify the sting to my palm) it looked like a pregnant jframe with a camel hump on back, but i was instructed to stick it in my front and back pocket of my jeans , it came out smooth and the L frame doesnt feel like an undersized gun like the j i have , it looks near as big as my glock 19 laid down on a counter but every bit of it was slim (besides the cylinder bulge) id buy one if they made them still (ill buy a used car but never a used motorcycle or gun)
i think a centenial j frame 9mm is a very logical gun (im getting rid of my j its too small in my hand)
and the 10mm/40s&w would be awesome 6 or 7 shot L frame (memphis and the greater shelby county officers carry the 40 s&w ) and a 45acp 5 shot centenial L frame would be the absolute best possible close range self defence firearm

ok if any of you wise old heads read this please try to answer this question

ok the bolt action ruger 77/44
some say you get "bullet jump" ( bullet runs through the rifling crooked maybe?)if you put a 44 special in the 44 mag chamber
why does this happen only in the rifle if it does and ive never heard revolver stories on this?
seems a dumb question but im thinking of finding one and getting it integrally suppressed, and i can get a "match" barrel chambered for 44 special or 44 mag
and obviously the subsonic 44spec will be the fun time/impress the buddies bullet i dont hunt (no one in my family does, definately not against it, just never had the chance) but the 44 mag capability would give it the capability to kill anything in america

yes i can hit (old heads in my family were in various services)id estimate 20000 minimum shot through a ruger 10'22 5000 shots through a beretta that looks kinna like the military one but its way older and its a single stack black plastic grips (no you cant buy it its my dads and "its the only gun with small enough grips for him") probably 1200 through a way old 45acp revolver
120 through an ak 47 semi auto 40 through an sks 80 through a mini 14(hate peep sights couldnt hit) 200 through a glock 21 (very nice weapon) 25 through a naa 22 revolver (i didnt want to mess up that pretty target if youll believe that) 10 rounds through that 44pec i mentioned earlier 200 or so out of a 30-06 600 or so 12 gauge 1000 or so 20 gauge , shot 30 out of an ar15
(still couldnt hit with the peep sight you can aim around a barn and still be within the peep sight) 400 outa my j frame 38 1000ish outa my glock 19
shot a few others too (30 round clips the ruger 10'22 is awesome plus that little gold bead and small notch are my favorite sights period)


if you are still here and you were answering on the ""bullet jump" from the ruger 77/44 using the special please answer if its that big of deal on accuracy ill move to a 77/22 integral(maybe the quietest gun ever and it takes 10'22 clips) or convert a mk2 pistol integral style (james bond wishes Q knew srt/melton or what not)

so if you are still with me and bullet jumps exists what kinna groups at 50yards
or if you are from a foreign county 53.86 meters (yes i know those are different distances but i figure the air isnt as thick as it is here in my concrete jungle)

oh forgot 22lr revolver (maybe a rossi?) 2000ish rounds ruger super redhawk(with a scope -uncle's) 44 mag 200ish superblackhawk 44mag 600ish and a blue s&w 6 shot 357 not that old had conyour rubber grips(uncles) 100ish of 38 spec
maybe i couldnt hit a penny with all of these guns but definately a dollar
(exempting the two guns with peep sights oh and that 22naa might as well have had peep sights)
oh and my uncle had a black smith and wesson 380 squeeze to get the clip out i can keep going ....
 
Another vote for the S&W 625-8 with the 4". Mine has been great and moon-clips are easy, well at least after you take the time to load them all and then de-moon them all.:neener:
 
Howdy Memphisjim!

I didn't think thick air could be topped by any means after taking a leap out in LA ...

Meters/Yards, no big deal, as long as you hit the spot :D
 
+5 on the Tyler T-grip. I bought my TRR used with the grip adapter installed. I can't get a comfortable grip on the square butt Smiths without one.
 
Welcome to The High Road, memphisjim.

Pull up a chair; there's some decaf over in the corner if you want it.
memphisjim said:
ok the bolt action ruger 77/44
some say you get "bullet jump" ( bullet runs through the rifling crooked maybe?)if you put a 44 special in the 44 mag chamber
why does this happen only in the rifle if it does and ive never heard revolver stories on this?
Click to expand...
I think that you're asking about the bullet of the shorter cartridge not engaging the rifling right away. When it's fired, the bullet travels forward a short distance and hits the rifling, then starts to spin. A longer ctg. in that weapon will put the bullet up close to the rifling, almost touching the lands before it is fired.

If I'm grasping your question correctly, then the answer is that it always happens with revolvers. The bullet always leaves the cartridge case, moves forward in the smooth-walled chamber/charge hole, crosses the cylinder-to-barrel gap, enters the forcing cone and only then engages the rifling in the barrel.

There's a loss of pressure, velocity and mechanical accuracy associated with this phenomenon, compared to, say, a single shot Thompson/Center style pistol. However, and this is the key, it simply does not matter at pistol firing distances. It would be a problem at 600 meters; at 5 yards, the effect is miniscule and we just don't worry about it.

The folks in THR's Rifle Country might give you a better, more specific answer in regard to the Ruger 77/44. :)
 
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A revolver is dramatically different from a rifle. The revolver has a throat at the chamber (which a rifle lacks) to center and perhaps slightly swage the bullet. Then it jumps the gap and enters the forcing cone, which usually centers it up and swages it a bit more.

A rifle has only a lede -- a slightly funnel-shaped section of the rifling resembling the forcing cone of a revolver, but not so generous.

The revolver's design goes a long way to straightening up a bullet and guiding it on it's way.
 
This thread still going?

Let's see O.P. asked is a .45 that much bigger

Do the math, of surface area - pi radius squared.

So calc. the .451 dia. and make that value 100%
& Calc. a .357 dia. and it's approx. 63% of the .45
surface area - a scientific explanation of the reasoning
behind some saying a .45 never gets any smaller.

WHat else Oh, a chronological look at .45 ACP revolvers.

M1917 - Consisted of the S&W 2nd Model Hand Ejector
aka the Triple Lock being modified to not have the crane detent
as well as deleting the ejector shroud. The big Colt New Service
was also built for the doughboys of WWI. They were issued
in a box, 8 already loaded half moon clips, 2 for the gun and they had
three small pouches just the right size for 2 moon clips each.

Post WWI, S&W kept making the M1917 as well as there being M1917s
brought back from EUrope circulating around. Remington-Peters
created the .45 Auto RIm cartridge in 1920 so users had an option
thatt didn't need half moon clips. S&W almost dropped the .45 ACP revolver
in the later 1930, then the Brazilian Gov. contracted for 37,000 of them.
These show up in the US today recognizable by the Brazilian crest
stamped on the RH side of the frame behind the trigger guard.

Post WWII - S&W changed from their long action to a short action for
the double action lines. THe first short actions were the
1950 Target, adj. rear sight, 6 1/2" ?Bbl. &
1950 Military fixed sights with a 4" Bbl. it became the Model 26

Dis-satisfied target shooters, and S&W responded with the
1955 Target, adj. rear sight, Target Hammer & Trigger, grips,
and the barrel was profiled with no taper, a .79-
diameter this became the Model 25 in 1957 when S&W
put a 2 digit number on all their models.

Somewhere in the late '70s the Full Moon 6 capacity clip was
invented. No knob to turn like a speedloader.

Speaking of, in the early/mid 1980s S&W finallyh chambered one of
their N-frames in the .45 Colt but didn't come up with a new number
it's also a 25 - whacky imho and confusing to new shooters.

Current
325 PC/TR - Scandium frame, Titanium cylinders & the TR gets a rail
325 NG aka Night Guard, Scandium frame and Stainless steel cylinder
with a 2 1/2" Bbl. compared to the 4" of the PD/TR it still at 28 oz
weighs about 4 oz. more. it comes with Pachmayr rubber grips and an
all black matte finish.

Model 22 and 22 Model of 1917
S&W sculpted the front of the frame and they
have tapered barrels, with fixed sights so they
resemble the 1950 Military/Model 26 with 4" Bbl.
and the M1917 with 5 1/2" Bbl.

the 625s have been around in various config.s since the
early 1980s. all Stainless Steel.

The full size Guy Hogue finger grooves, and checkered in
Rosewood have a similiar profile to the ones STainz posted
in rubber/black. allows a full grip and with the mild recoil
and it being a 45 oz gun, I can't understand why anyone would
neeed rubber grips

Randall




look like the
.
 
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