.45 acp revolver vs .45 auto

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I havent been on here for several months so hope this isnt an old subject. I am 68 and my hands sometimes have problems racking my 1911s. I am looking at either a 9mm or .45 acp revolver, double action of course for carry purpose, so short barrel etc. Is there much difference in performance in a revolver and an auto pistol in .45 acp? Hope this isnt a dumb question.
 
I havent been on here for several months so hope this isnt an old subject. I am 68 and my hands sometimes have problems racking my 1911s. I am looking at either a 9mm or .45 acp revolver, double action of course for carry purpose, so short barrel etc. Is there much difference in performance in a revolver and an auto pistol in .45 acp? Hope this isnt a dumb question.

Take a 0.452 diameter FMJ when shopping for a 45 ACP revolver. Per talks with S&W customer service, prior to 1989 all S&W 45 caliber revolvers had 0.455 "ball end" (cylinder throats). I found through experience that shooting 0.452 lead through a 0.455" chamber throat did not produce good accuracy. Accuracy was not particularly stellar shooting a 0.452" FMJ through a 0.455" chamber throat. So take a 0.452" FMJ bullet and see if it wobbles in the cylinder throat of the revolver your are interested. It should be almost a push fit. Or you could take pin gauges and actually measure the throat.

In terms of performance, if the grips place your hand in a comfortable position, and the trigger is crisp and light, you will have no excuse why the bullets are not going down the middle. I always shot revolvers better than autopistols. Autopistols are harder to shoot accurately than a revolver. It is very difficult to shoot well with a 1911, for whatever reason, some 1911's are just impossible to shoot well, and I don't know why. Maybe it is the dwell at unlock.

Something that is just wonderful with revolvers is, they are insensitive to bullet and powder charge. You can shoot 250's, 225's, 185's, 165's and not have to change out recoil springs. And, as long as you don't stick a bullet in the barrel, you can really cut the loads.

By the way, the Auto Rim cartridge is a better revolver round than the ACP. I disliked having to load, and unload moon clips. To extract ACP cases without a moon clip, I had to poke the cases out with some sort of a ram rod. But, the Auto Rim case acts just like any other rimmed round. Works great.
 
You definitely can do more loads with the revolver because it doesn't have to do work (reload itself). The only thing you have to worry about is accuracy and kinetic energy. I load for both.
 
If you go with a short barrel revolver, you will be giving up performance of the 45 ACP cartridge. A 4" barrel revolver will provide adequate performance with 45 ACP when compared to a 5" semi-auto pistol. Shorter, not so much.

If you reload, 45 Auto Rim is an option. Otherwise, it will be difficult to find suitable ammunition other than range fodder.

BMT Equipped moon clip loaders and unloaders are the cat's meow when it comes to using moon clips. A bit pricey for some but great tools.
http://bmtequipped.com/index.php

Besides 45 ACP revolvers, I have BMT Equipped loaders for 38 Special J-frames, 9x19 L frames, and 9x19 Sp101 revolvers. GOOD STUFF.

A 1911 will be easier to conceal than an N-frame S&W revolver. The 1911 is slimmer. I'm 69 years old and can manage to find a way to rack a 1911.

Just my opinion.
 
I have a 4" revolver in .45 ACP. It's hard to say for sure, but I'd say it loses roughly 50 fps compared with the average of the 5" autos I've had. That doesn't amount to anything important, in my book.

As an aside, it happens to be the most accurate non-competition centerfire handgun I have ever owned. That's pure luck of the draw, of course, but there you go - and it will go go round-for-round with a 1911 all day long.
 
The minor differences in ballistic performance between two platforms using the same cartridge is inconsequential to my mind. My focus is on having something that's easy to carry, smooth and natural to draw, lands bullets on target, and can be easily reloaded should that requirement ever arise.

I've always felt moon clipped .45 ACP is just about ideal, as the clipped rounds carry compactly, effortlessly drop in the cylinder without knobs to twist (and remembering what direction to twist depending on brand), buttons to press, and no worries about loose cases hanging up under the extractor or only punching halfway out of the chambers.
 
I enjoy my 1911's very much and hope to be able to do so for a while longer... but the time will come, I suppose.

Luckily I've always shot revolvers better and liked them better in general, and I have several in 45acp that I enjoy.

I guess you could carry the Model 625, maybe with a shorter barrel. It's an N-frame and kinda heavy for that. It's also extremely accurate. The empty brass pops out so easily that I don't bother with moonclips at the range.

The Charter Arms Pitbull was made to be a carry piece. It's a little smaller than a k-frame, IIRC, and pretty light. It has little springy things inside the cylinders so it doesn't need moonclips.

The Blackhawk would be an unusual carry piece, but it's a lot of fun to shoot. With the 45acp cylinder you just remove the empties in the normal way, with the ejector rod.



 
I havent been on here for several months so hope this isnt an old subject. I am 68 and my hands sometimes have problems racking my 1911s. I am looking at either a 9mm or .45 acp revolver, double action of course for carry purpose, so short barrel etc. Is there much difference in performance in a revolver and an auto pistol in .45 acp? Hope this isnt a dumb question.
It isn't a dumb question, but it is one that comes up fairly regularly. I try to pay attention to these, "I'm old/weak/small/woman/child/etc., and what gun should I choose" threads since I'm in my early 60's, I'm not a big guy, and I'm losing strength as the years go by.

I have an S&W 686 and a 1911 that are two of my primary shooters. At this point in my life, I'd much rather work the controls on the 1911 than pull the double action trigger on the 686.

I'm not saying my opinion won't change when I get to 68, but as long as arthritis doesn't get bad enough that I can't work the thumb safety, using the big muscles of my upper body to rack the 1911 slide once, for nearly an infinite number of shots, that gives me a light/short single action 1911 trigger pull, beats pulling through the double action trigger pull on the 686, for every shot, with just the little muscles in my trigger finger. Part of my issue may be related to not having very large hands, as the 686 DA trigger reach is longer (an N-Frame revolver would be even worse for me) than the 1911 trigger reach, which gives me more leverage with the 1911.

To make racking the slide of the 1911 easier, you can cock the hammer first.
 
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Mr. Patriot, I'm of a similar age and have arthritis in my hands too, so it's not a dumb question to me! I'm currently doing immunotherapy, which causes a lot of joint inflammation, so I'm suddenly having to figure out ways around this situation. I can still shoot a 1911 without suffering too badly, but my hand strength isn't what it used to be, so I sometimes have that last-round-in-the-mag jam because of my insufficient grip. (I don't know why they call it "limp-wristing," my wrists are fine-- it's my hands letting me down.) Obviously, my .45 revolver won't do that, and, as mentioned by Mr. Slamfire above, you can shoot lighter loads if the recoil of a full 230 grain is too painful. I shoot 185 grain semi-wadcutters from my .45 revolver, and I sure couldn't shoot those in a 1911.

It was just a few days ago that I regretfully had to retire my beloved Dan Wesson 1911 from carry and nightstand service because of that jamming problem I mentioned.

Unlike Mr. Slamfire, I think moonclips are the greatest thing ever! I just toss the clip&cartridges assembly in the general direction of the cylinder, and boop! it's loaded. I even have some belt carrier dealies to keep a few handy during a range session. The recoil impulse is a little harsher from a revolver than a 1911-- I presume that's due to the slide slowing down the suddenness of the slam-- but using a lighter bullet more than compensates for it. My .45 revolver is a 325PD Airlight, so you'd think it'd be horrible to shoot because of its lightness, but the lighter load and a big Hogue grip make it relatively pleasant.
 
45 Auto Rim, or maybe consider a 38. Both are easier to unload than the rebated rim 45 ACP and 9mm. You’ll have a wider variety of guns to choose from in 38. Plus, depending on which model/frame you choose, you can have the option of 38 for training/practice and +P for carry.
 
If you really like the 1911 as a carry piece, but are having more difficulty with fighting the spring tension to rack it, try a .38 Super Auto. Full loads approach .38Spl+P+, so a decent amount of energy, and they are a whole lot easier to rack the slide than a .45 Auto. I'm sure there are some .45 Auto revolvers trimmed down to make them better carry or concealable sized guns, but their overall bulk is still against them in the cylinder width they present. A 1911 is pretty flat and conceals much easier than a large bore revolver. If I were going to carry a .45 caliber revolver, I'd carry one chambered for .45 Colt. Even with a 300 grain bullet, they are mild shooters.
 
To the experts that have .45 acp revolvers, do they kick more than a .45 auto? Doesn't the slide spring absorb some of that recoil?
 
I have a Ruger black hawk in 40sw and 10mm. I think it has more felt recoil than my 10mm 1911. And more than my Taurus Pt 100
This a PT100 if your not familiar with the model. The 45acp may be the same way. My Ruger P345 has more felt recoil than my 1911's.
wm_14325412.jpg
 
I carry a .45 ACP revolver often for my CCW. If you can find one, get one like this, a 3" S&W Model 625-3:
51070082001_e32afc5a02_o.jpg

When I carry a .45 ACP semi, it is usually this one, a Colt Combat Commander:
51234556521_88423f29df_o.jpg

I haven't had difficulty with the slide yet, but when that day comes, more revolver carry for me. I have 9mm, but like .45 ACP more.
 
To the experts that have .45 acp revolvers, do they kick more than a .45 auto? Doesn't the slide spring absorb some of that recoil?
The perceived recoil will depend largely on the weight of the gun and the grips. My M1917 S&W is a tad lighter than a 5" 1911 and "kicks" a bit harder with fairly narrow service ( Magna) grips, but is less snappy than my 4" Commander. With proper target grips fitted, the .45 revolver is a pussycat.
As far as moon clips go, Im in the camp that considers them a pain to deal with. Fortunately, empties fall right out of my '17 when shaken, or at worst require flicking out with a fingernail.
Now, if I was going to use it for serious defense or competition, clips are definitely the way to go- but for casual use, I dont bother with them.
 
I carry a .45 ACP revolver often for my CCW. If you can find one, get one like this, a 3" S&W Model 625-3:
View attachment 1062129

When I carry a .45 ACP semi, it is usually this one, a Colt Combat Commander:
View attachment 1062130

I haven't had difficulty with the slide yet, but when that day comes, more revolver carry for me. I have 9mm, but like .45 ACP more.
Wow, those are both super sharp!
 
"The perceived recoil will depend largely on the weight of the gun and the grips."

I would add something about its overall shape and balance... but, yeah, I totally agree.

45acp is not a high-pressure cartridge. To me, its recoil is not objectionable in a handgun that's at least medium-sized and fits my hands well.

A similarly-sized revolver and semi-auto in 45acp have different kinds of recoil and I handle them differently.

The revolver goes boom, but it's not sharp. If shooting casually, I hold my hands and arms a little looser than with a semiauto, and let the recoil move my arms a little bit.

The a semiauto has a sudden push and some stuff moves around. I have to hold it tighter to keep my hands from moving around or getting nipped, and I have to hold my arms stiffer so that I don't "limp wrist" it.

The two kinds of recoil are just different. I don't think that one is usually more intense or more difficult. I find the revolver a little bit easier, but then again I have been a revolver guy for ages and they tend to fit my XXL hands better.
 
Make life simple at this point in time. A 45 or 9mm wheel gun is gonna be difficult to find right now. Get yourself a 38+p capable or a .357mag which you can run .38spcl in. Even a plain 38spcl will take care of business. S&W makes some nice snubbies or short barrel wheel guns. Ruger has a few as well. You can find 38 spcl now days and you won't need a whole lot. Your in Texas so concealment is not a huge deal. How's things in Luling? Been awhile since I have been over that way...
 
I have a few ACP revolvers. Okay, quite a few.

6C0A364D-0B08-4DDD-9ABB-90323AAD9F63.jpeg

They range in weight from 35.6 ounces (bottom right, 4”, Model 1917) to 38.8 ounces (Model 625-6).

My newest is this Model 25-2 with a 4 1/4” barrel and round butt. It weighs 39.2 ounces.

F0B55984-01AF-46C9-8B89-8D3E7B3F341D.jpeg

My normal EDC is the Model 22-4, top left or top right, but all have been on my hip at some point. I handload and the SAECO 453, 235-240 grain full wadcutter over hardball doses of powder gives me an easy shooting, hard hitting load.

I have 1911s but as I am not comfortable with them, they are range guns.

Kevin
 
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I carry a .45 ACP revolver often for my CCW. If you can find one, get one like this, a 3" S&W Model 625-3:
View attachment 1062129

When I carry a .45 ACP semi, it is usually this one, a Colt Combat Commander:
View attachment 1062130

I haven't had difficulty with the slide yet, but when that day comes, more revolver carry for me. I have 9mm, but like .45 ACP more.
The problem with those 3 inch 625's is, if you can find one it will cost you around $1500.
 
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