Waho, its more than possible. Any of the common revolver cartridges are perfect candidates for loading with black powder to see what the fun is all about.
The ONLY downside is that the gun has to be fully cleaned after the day of shooting. And the other downside is that you will want to give the bore and cylinder chambers a clean and re-oil them with an oil that is more compatible with black powder and substitutes. And that oil is Ballistol. Or since you'll be cleaning and oiling the gun that evening or the next day at the latest you can use another option.... Canola cooking oil. It works superbly as a black powder gun oil FOR SHORT TERM USE.
The night before solvent out your cylinder and bore. Then apply and wipe off the excess with Ballistol or Canola and go shoot normally the next day.
If you're shooting jacketed bullets I think you'll be just fine. But it would not hurt to wipe down the noses of the bullets with a finger smear of that same Ballistol or Canola so it tends to wipe down the bore as it runs down the barrel.
If you're shooting cast bullets they tend to not use a wax for the lube which is black powder friendly. But if you can check with the bullet maker to see if they are using some lube which is OK for black powder and subs. If in doubt I'd say wipe down the noses with some Ballistol or Canola again.
When fired the nose oil will bounce and disperse well enough that some of it will work to lubricate the chamber and bore and keep the fouling soft.
.38Special and .357Mag are both great for black powder. .44 mag from a .44mag gun sure won't be anywhere near close to peak pressure and of course .45Colt was a black powder cartridge for many years before smokless came onto the scene.
The Super Revolver rounds like .454 Casull, .460S&W Mag and .500S&W Mag would all be well under their peak pressures with cases full of black as well.
With a hand ejector revolver the fouling WILL get into the center bearing and the cylinder WILL become stiff to turn. A drop or two of Ballistol or Canola into the joint and giving the cylinder a good spin will free it up. But the goop will totally pollute the ejector shaft parts. So removing the cylinder and breaking down the ejector shaft for cleaning is an iron clad "must do". But that's about a two minute job so no biggie.
The only other important factor if you're new to black powder is
NO AIR GAPS! ! You FILL the whole case to where there's about half the room needed for the bullet. That way when seating the bullet you'll correctly compress the powder charge. If you do not do this the powder can burn or explode the whole charge at the same time and the pressure peak will make a smokeless round look like baby food. You seriously run the risk of a too small charge of black being able to break your gun.
But when the larger amount of powder is correctly packed it burns politely from the one end to the other while the bullet is being pushed down the bore. And all is well.
If you don't want to use a FULL case of powder than use a filler such as oat bran or cream of wheat so that once again the case is filled first with black then with a separate layer of the filler then the bullet. Again you want to compress the charge and filler by about half a bullet seating depth or even a hair more.
Got it? NO LOOSE POWDER IN THE CARTRIDGES ! ! ! ! ! You need some or more compression. It ain't smokeless.
So load up enough to make the cleaning worthwhile and go make some SMOKE!
You'll also get to feel the friendly THUMP! from the black powder instead of the "CRACK!" of smokeless loads.